DRep

First off, I would like to thank you Doug for all the time you have put into making Index a safe great place to climb and hang out. For those who don't know him, he has really done alot more than you think. I may not agree with some of his stances on when to bolt or not, but I respect his opinion and him as a person. I was under the impression that the bolt would be placed lower to protect the awkward mantle to get you off the Godzilla belay ledge. I would be in favor of having a bolt there but not where it currently resides. I do agree with Doug that the placements in the thin crack are good and will hold a fall. I have even fallen on them twice when I first tried the route years ago. I hope that the bolter will take Doug up on his offer.

Thanks Jonah. Nice video. Yes, but there was no snow on the route between the notch and the few hundred feet below the summit. One would have to descend a hundred feet+ to get to snow patches.

We both had been down it before 4 years earlier in dry conditions. It sucked just as much. Totally agree that the upper ridge alone is well worth it.

Trip: Mt. Stuart - CNR Date: 8/1/2011 Trip Report: I know, I know another CNR of Stuart TR.... Just got back from two fantastic days on the North Ridge of old Stuey. Jesse and I left the car on Monday 8/1 at the Esmeralda Creek TH at 5:30am and started the approach. When we got to Esmeralda Basin it was intermittent hard snow which made for slow going up to Ingalls Lake. Ingalls lake was frozen thick in places so we just walked across with crampons. Stuart pass was fine, no snow. Getting over to Goat Pass requires use of crampons and self arresting device and most likely will for the remainder of the season. Crossing bellow the Stuart Glacier was quick and easy due to the high snowpack remaining. We left our crampons on and used our axes. The snow went far beyond the base of the route. Once on route we found no snow on the Lower Ridge. We bivied at the notch and found several good sized snow patches to melt water from. The bivy sites were pretty plush! No more snow until just before the summit. We had forgotten how much the Cascadian sucks to descend. We went out over Longs Pass which had a fair amount of snow remaining. This is an absolutely amazing climb - well deserving of its classic status. I would consider doing it again after I have long forgotten about the descent. On another note; We had quick glances across to the Sherpa Glacier and it looked like it had some large cracks opening up, don't know if its in or out, but I thought I would let you know. Also the gendarme bypass is completely covered in snow and will not be clear anytime soon. Ingalls Lake Goat Pass For those of you wanting to only climb the Upper Ridge, bring the pons and axes for the couloir. My first impression when I saw this was "That's not so big" little did I know I was only looking at a little over half the ridge! IT IS A BEHEMOTH!!! Jesse leading the 5.9 on the Lower Ridge - AWESOME pitch! The room with a view. Next morning we simuled to the gendarme in 3 pitches. this was an absolutely AMAZING part of the climb! Stuart Glacier below. It's not a climb without a heel hook right? Summit!!!! This was big for both of us because between the two of us we have had three false starts. Descent down the Crap-asscadian was this, sand surfing, more of this, and getting lost in the woods because we're retarded like that. Longs Pass still holding snow. Farewell good friend! Looking forward to more adventures to come! Gear Notes: Standard set of nuts, green-yellow C3s, blue-orange TCUs, doubles of BD .4 - 2. single 3 and 4. Though we didn't use the 4 because Jesse is freeking badass and didn't place it on the offwidth... crazyness! kids these days, I tell ya. Approach Notes: Light weight crampons and axes.

Wrong. I think you are referring to DGS 5.9+ it starts over by the Back Road. 5.8, 5.9+, 5.9 Check out RCNW.net good thread on it there. Its a good route! Salamander is a single pitch route to the left of the trail on the way up to the upper wall.

Partner found. Ol'reliable Jessie. It's goin down!

CNR Stuart on August 1,2 ?

Looking for a solid partner. Planning on doing it in two days with a bivy at the notch. I Lead solid 5.10+ trad at Index, 5.9+ Alpine. I am also a rope rescue technician, EMT, and am competent in self rescue techniques. PM if interested with a sample of your climbing resume. People whom I've previously met have preference. Dave

Wow, looks great!

Sounds about right. Thanks for the report RSO! Great blog too!

That sounds like a plan I had a few years ago... Didn't go well...

Sweet area! Has the trail up to the base been improved or is it still a demoralizing bushwack?

So you don't really know it at all?

Bring it Kev...

So envious right now.

Anyone climb Europa this year or last year? How long does it take to dry out? I read Sheri's great TR which has great info on it. Just curious as to the current condition of the route, jungles can reclaim ground pretty quickly!

Lets keep the wannabe pros out.

These guys hate their jobs so much that they are posting on the nightshift thread during the day?

"Waaaaa why didn't they just listen to us? Don't they know that WE have to work there?" I'm guessing it was along those lines?

Welp, not working tonight. Passin out. wish i could join you dude..... PSYCH!

OK Kevino whats the funniest thing you've seen on the interwebs tonight?

Mmmmm Kevins mom!