
kevino
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Everything posted by kevino
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[TR] Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge 7/26/2010
kevino replied to Peter McCorkell's topic in Alpine Lakes
Awesome trip report. So how big were your packs w/o bivy gear? -
I don't want to sell it, but I'm not planning on using it within the next couple of months, so I'd be happy to lend it to you. CAMP Micro 1... (Quark there for size comparison...)
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It was not a nice warm rain, rather cold hail. To those that were asking, that picture is of our first pitch, which was to the west of the actual ridge but was the best place to get off the snow and onto he rock. Curt - nice job. We started wondering after we passed by, did you descend the west ridge or...?
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Goatboy, We were gunning for the razorback ridge. Can't wait to go back for the whole thing, but that'll probably wait for another time as there was only one snow bridge that connected the glacier to the wall.
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My friend Matt and I got a couple pitches up our route before that hail/thunder/lightening storm made us bail and run from rock fall and lightening bolts. Just curious to hear about other people's stories...We heard people on the north ridge and know that some parties were heading for the west ridge... The climbing The storm Pictures don't really do it justice...
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[TR] Goose Egg - Spoil ill 7/20/2010
kevino replied to joepuryear's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Ben. He said you were with Justin and others. -
Hey Phil, want to climb in the bugaboos in august?
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I have seven days off of work in August. I would like to get out and climb some alpine rock...With that amount of time I was thinking maybe the Bugaboos or the high Sierras, but climbing here in the cascades would be great as well. If interested please contact me so we can discuss details. -Kevin
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Just letting you all know that access to the South Fork cliff is closed until 7/31. We found out after driving all the way to the second to last turn off that the Army National Guard is using the area for training exercises.
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[TR] Goose Egg - Spoil ill 7/20/2010
kevino replied to joepuryear's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Looks like a fun line. Can't wait to get on it. Joe, do you have anymore info on shock and awe and ignorant bliss? Looking for a topo or something of that nature. Thanks! -
I have this wednesday open and free. Would like to go climb some alpine rock...stuart range works best for me but am open to other ideas. Let me know if you're interested.
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Awesome. Thanks for the report and pictures. And let Liz know I'll help her find knar...
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It was on e-omc but they seem to be sold out now. Sorry. You can use SPAD15 to get 15% off at moosejaw.
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Anyone want to ski adams south side? Road is clear to TH? Thinking of getting up there friday evening, skinning/climbing and skiing saturday. Any takers? On the other hand, I could be talked into a fun alpine rock day.
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Thanks for everyone's input. In response to jmace, I'm not sure why I listed the weight at 605g. Anyway, I found a good deal on the CAMP's and pulled the trigger. Grivel was my top choice but i couldn't justify paying $50 more than the deal I got on the CAMPs.
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So where did you go that requires rock shoes, two technical ice tools and an ice axe?
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Trip: Tieton River Canyon - Goose Egg and Chunkyard Crag Date: 7/6/2010 Trip Report: Due to my climbing partner Eric being called out to fight fires outside of Crescent Bar, we had to re-work our climbing plans. We decided to climb Dirty Sanchez on Goose Egg Mountain due to the easy approach so we could get a later start in the day. So we got an alpine start and left ellensburg at 11 am. Parked the car at noon. Started climbed at 1. Finished the route at 3:45. Back to the car at 4:45. Started drinking beers with cute girls at 5:45. Solid day's work. We soloed pitch 1. Linked pitches 3 and 4 (awesome 180 ft pitch) and then again linked pitches 5 and 6. We'd recommend this approach as it made the climb go by super fast and you get long and enjoyable leads. Eric on pitch 2 Eric topping out on pitch 4 Finishing up pitch 5...he continued to the face climbing of pitch 6 after this Me after the Jenga traverse and finishing the roped climbing The previous day I went and visited a relatively new crag in the Tieton area called the Chunkyard. I believe Andy Fitz (andyf on here) developed most of the crag himself and made a route list on edgeworks climbing website. I went with my friend Chris, who is new to climbing, so we only climbed 5 of the easier routes but still had a good day. Stays shaded until the afternoon, well bolted routes (does not disrupt the flow of climbing and the bolts are adequately spaced) and most importantly of all, steep juggy climbing! Chris on Arrowleaf Chunked and Formed Superchunk Hopefully some info and pictures will get people out there more. The rock climbs way better than it looks. Thanks again Andy! Gear Notes: Goose Egg: Good rack to 3" if linking the pitches, and lots of alpine/extendable draws. Chunkyard: Quickdraws. Approach Notes: Goose Egg: Steep trail by the spring. Chunkyard: Go to moon rocks. Find trail going east across talus field.
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One is an atzar, the other not sure. Both covered in grip tape of some sort.
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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010
kevino replied to kurthicks's topic in Alpine Lakes
I just want to point out how awesome the picture is of you climbed rimed rock with ice tools and barehanded...in july. Don't see that too often in washington! -
Spotly, The lower section of that pitch you can climb some twin cracks which have easy feet. The upper hand crack require some foot jams and maybe a litter smearing. The pitch above that you are climbing chicken heads and smearing a shallow corner...At least thats how I remember it from last year! Hand crack: Start of next pitch: /end overly details response
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How bad are the ticks at Tieton currently?
kevino replied to jlag's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
So are any of you guys available to climb mid-week? In the mornings? -
I was thinking of making a run up to the tooth sometime this week...just curious what the snow level and conditions are like right now on the approach. Is it getting pretty consolidated? Too late for skiing? Thanks.