dougd

"When state/county/metro taxpayers get tired of the AFSCME/SEIU/WEA extortion racket and balk at the ballot box" Collective bargaining = extortion? Is that your position Fairweather?

Since this thread has evolved into USFS/logging, thought I'd share this recent development. Seems on topic. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2015535119_apornorthwestforestrule.html?syndication=rss

I've done the CD on Baker, it'll be a great training climb for these guys imo. Shuksan remains on my short list... I'll have to check out the N Face now you got me thinkin about it matt... thnx d

Good on ya. This brief apprenticeship will serve you well. For the record I agree with Jordan. Do the CD on Baker. It should be great this year and will be the experience you're looking for IMO/ Good luck, d

Oohh man... I'm sorry I looked in on this thread... out. d

Yes, I did read the post above. Read all of em. While I could support a tax increase for park access, given current political realities including anti tax movements, it would seem to be an unrealistic expectation to try to "bump an existing tax a smidge". The repeal of the tax on bottled water and candy recently said a lot about current statewide tax sentiment imo. While the $30/year isn't gonna hurt me either, I can also have empathy for folks that will have a lot of trouble coming up with the money to enjoy the parks. Going through all the time and trouble to find alternate personal solutions to the immediate problem of State parks access, up to and including changing license plates on one's vehicle I would suppose could include some cost too... Maybe the user fee won't help anything, but mattp's question remains, "what else can they do?" "Given current political realities", raising taxes may not be viable. Anyway, I did get a chuckle over the posts about Opcycke's senior pass... d

So, is there a solution here for funding the park system that we are so determined to enjoy? Just curious. d

Moving to another state might just work. I hear Minnesota is quite nice this time of year... haha d

My advice would be to contact sanctioned Rainier guide services and see what they can put together for you on what is very short notice. Good luck, d

Very nice! d

Yes, that is until you reach that sh*tpile sitting on the red saddle... d

Great way to airate that lawn also! d

jst, Thanks for adding the great pics to your TR. Especially enjoyed the pic of the upper ledges right before the Chute showing exposure there. Excellent angle for that shot. We never did see the Muir fox on our 6/4 - 6/5 climb, that guy looks like he's eating well up there. Man, you guys had the weather for your summit day too... My partner and I just got back last night from doing the Emmons/Winthrop route, summited Tuesday into what was about a 35 knot headwind (and gusts up to?) so no headstands up there for us... It was so cold we barely snapped a couple pics and retreated into the crater for a leeward break behind some boulders before descending to Camp Schurman. Getting my money's worth on that permit this year. Later, d

Yup, we made a B line for Columbia Crest from the top of the chute @ 12, 600ft. Intersected with the DC at 13,700... We're headed back up to the Emmons Monday. Want to have a look at Russell Cliff... Can't imagine skiing the Gib Chute either, but then, I don't ski per se. I do nordic in the winter to stay in shape, but not downhill... d

JST, Glad you pulled it off. Did your line follow along up the ledges where the snow/ice met Gib rock to Gib Chute then? Your timing was close to ours too sounds like.... d

Thanks Ivan, I like that one, one more if you please. "It is not the critic who counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly; who errs and comes up short again and again; for there is not effort without error and shortcomings; but who does actually strive to do the deed; who knows the great enthusiasm, the great devotion, who spends himself in a worthy cause, who at the best knows the triumph of high achievement and who at the worst, if he falls, at least he falls while daring greatly. So that his place will never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory or defeat" TR d

What a wonderful partner to have along! I hope you guys have some crevasse rescue practice in, you may need it that time of year on that route. Good luck! d

d What he said. In addition: I hope I never have to be faced with such a decision. I will not second guess, criticize, or join in speculation about the men/women who were faced with it. d

I made that mistake (better way down) in the Mt Jefferson wilderness once... Cost me a couple hours getting back to the car. If I hadn't checked my bearing, it would have cost me much more... d

There is way more snow up there now than shown in these pics btw... Man, where was all this beta before we left?! d

DPS definately has some good advice in his post. Heed all of it. I have some recent experience on Gib Ledges (6/5), and I would say that I found the exposure significant. Now, this is a matter of opinion, and is heavily influenced by a person's level of experience I suppose. I have quite a bit, my parter not as much... My partner and I did do some belaying with pickets, and a couple running belays as well, and got from Muir to the top of Gib Chute in just over 5 hours. Yeah, I suppose that might be a bit slow, we left Camp Muir right at 0100 and would have had ample time left to get to the summit by 0800 - 0900 or so if we were both going well, and didn't have weather moving in on us. I do recommend descending the DC route. That's what we did. The guides have it wanded, and fixed ropes down the cleaver for you :-) FYI, I think the party in front of us (6) did some belaying, the party behind us (2) did not... There were also others choosing not to do the route at all, after having a look, due to some interesting snow conditions. Such as a few inches of sugary snow under a bit of ice in spots, in other spots we had to use our ice axes to get purchase for making moves where frozen rock and ice met along the route... We had 100' of 8.5m rope and a picket each. I carried an ice screw just in case. We were rigged for crevasse rescue of course, but the crevasses we saw were not difficult to navigate. No Av becons... Right now Gib Ledges is in great condition IMHO, and we thoroughly enjoyed it! You're right, conditions are indeed very wintery up there. I highly recommend you go have a look, and make your best decision. I apologize for not doing a tr or providing pics as my camera was not available during the most exposed parts of this climb. There were some pretty impressive hero shots in there had I better prepared... sigh When we got back to Muir we talked to a guy from one of the other parties that climbed it that day also, he characterized it as "spicey"... A well placed adjective is a beautiful thing... Good luck! d

Well said. d

Sounds like really good fun and thanks for taking the time to share the story. I had thoughts of trying the ledges route that weekend but the weather forecast appeared to be just uncooperative enough, so we delayed our trip until this past weekend. Beer brats anywhere are primo, but at Muir, with a cold one to wash them down, had to be the best. Regards, d

Man, 54 14ers... only a few more to go eh? I did the keyhole route on Longs a couple years ago, that was a fun climb. Winter conditions in June even! Good luck, d

No. No. No. (thank goodness) I did start hiking/climbing with an external frame pack back in the '70's but nothing quite that draconian. In the early '80's I bought a Lowe internal frame pack and still use it. It's pretty beat up, but is still serviceable... d