grandpa

No, the "double back" style has a one-piece buckle, and the end of the webbing must be threaded back over itself every time. The "speed buckle" style has a two-piece buckle and the webbing is fixed in place, and has the webbing sewn over as you mentioned. I've used both and far prefer the old style, but I'm guessing the manufacturers are catering to the "most inattentive among us" by going with the "speed buckle". I find the old style to be easier to set and adjust, but I do know that more attention in "harnessing up" is imperative! Thanks all, for the replies!

Thank you! I have not heard of this company. I just wrote to them to confirm, and then will place an order if it's the old style buckle. The way things are going, I must be the only guy out there that likes this buckle arrangement.

My favorite harness, by far, is the Metolius "Safe Tech" with the two belay loops and the double back style waist belt buckle. But, they now only supply that harness with the newer, "speed buckle". I really dislike those, and it seems everyone is going to that style, so it appears that I'm outta luck. (%$#@#! lawyers, I suspect). Searching the 'net tonight (so far) has resulted in Ø (zero) harnesses with that style buckle. Do any of you know of a manufacturer that still uses this buckle? Second question is, somewhere recently I saw/read of a harness that has a small loop sewn into the leg harness strap, designed to clip a 'biner into for use with a prussik or klemheist autoblock. Do any of you know which one this might be. I'll keep searching, but haven't found it (yet). Thanks, all...

It's been my experience that if you reef on SS bolts/nuts enough they'll lockup and you'll never get 'em to move again. However, this is in regards to antenna mounting hardware where "reefing" on the hardware is quite possible. This may not be possible with climbing anchors, I don't know. I've never placed anchor bolts.

OK, I can see that. Maybe a loose definition of "below Camp Muir", but valid. I don't take the kids there, and I may go take a look myself one day. Thanks.

Howdy yerself ;-) Check PM.

This is done in Northfield, Mass. I toured the facility about 20 years ago, quite interesting.

Yes, that's essentially all I want. I'll look into the one you suggested. Thanks....

I've decided it's getting time to consider a locator device, and would like a comparison from experienced users, not just the advertising by the device companies. Anyone care to share the +/- of their devices? Thanks in advance...

Thanks, I've been looking at this one for a while. I do hope it is good weather, I like the views on top as much as the hike up.

Sandy, just saw your post re: El Dorado... check your PM.

Not true, Mazamas basic course registration starts next Tuesday... www.mazamas.org Further, the Mazamas have some *very* good online instruction sessions on Youtube. However (and this is important!), these videos are not suitable for use "in lieu of" competent personal instruction, but they are useful to give you an idea of what some aspects of mountaineering are all about.

Ha! I've been wondering if you were still around. Haven't seen a post from you in a while. I did another summit this summer, Shuksan. A most excellent climb, and in some ways I liked it more than Rainier, even though its summit elevation is a mile lower. I used the same folks as when I climbed Rainier (IMG, highly recommended). A very good place to eat is the Copper Creek Inn. Another is the Wild Berry. Both have good food.

Thumbs up on each of these.

I agree, my take on this is that a guided trip will cost *far* less than say, a broken leg or the like, if things go wrong, even if you have good insurance. Things might go well, they might not. I first saw, and started watching that mountain when I was about your age, and finally summited it on my 61st birthday, using International Mountaing Guides in Ashford for the guide service. That was money VERY well spent. And even though it was a most perfect day, weather wise, had I tried it on my own with some "online climbing buddies" of unknown capabilities, I can think of a few times things might not have gone well at all. I learned a lot that I didn't know that I didn't know by going with guides. Prior to making the decision to go, I read a LOT; (Freedom of the Hills, various other books, nwhikers.net, Cascadeclimbers.com, Summitpost.org), and took a few trips up the trail to Camp Muir prior to making the decision that yes, I can do this, but with someone who knows HOW to do it. I have no doubt whatever that you can do it. I did and I'm not in the same conditioning category as you appear to be, but there is more than physical conditioning and good weather to make it up and (more importantly), back down Rainier. That is a serious undertaking.

Good idea, and thanks (to all) for the various opinions and ideas.

Yes, that's the situation... *occasional* steeper climbs. That's the way I figured it, but with no firsthand prior experience, I ask. Thank you.

I *think* I'm wanting to buy a used ice tool for some scrambling on glaciers this summer (and beyond). Not intending to do any serious ice climbing, but just crossing various late summer cracks and so on..(no, not going by myself yet, still enough a novice to pay the guides). So my question is, what should I watch for? Good thinks to consider, bad things to avoid (like is there any hazard to buying used ice tools like buying used soft gear)? I *love* gadgets, and climbing/hiking is a new experience for me, so for occasional (if ever), use, what would be a suitable tool, and what's a reasonable price, in good or better condition? Ideas?

I took the "crack school" (crevase rescue) by IMG this summer, and it was well done, and worth the money/time. We spent one day learning and practicing knots, techniques and and the general idea of it all, then the following day we spent on a large cornice working out various problems. Particularly interesting to me was the fact that a snow anchor actually works, and works well. I'm accustomed to dry, powdery winter snow that you can't make a snowball with and couldn't imagine packing any snow tight enough to hold anything, but it works. I have to admit that I originally imagined (hoped for) doing the practical part in a crevasse, but in hindsight that would not have been a well thought out idea. Doing it over the side of a 40-50' cornice with a easy runout at the bottom gave us the chance to practice without the hazard of being in a crevasse. So I say it's good info to have, no matter who you select, but I give IMG in Ashford a full thumbs up.

Try IMG (360-569-2609), I'd bet they're in the office...

Anyone here have an opinion on the equipment manufactured and sold by "Gear4Rocks" in the Ukraine? Their prices are about 1/2 of the well-known brands, but that difference is nothing when compared to a broken foot/leg/neck if they are not as well built.

Fine tr, and a nice read. I wish I knew how to ski...

I used them last summer, and can't say enough good about all 4 guides, and the service. It was apparent to me early on that they knew what they were doing, and they conveyed it to a bunch of "unknown" noobs quite well, so that we (at least I) knew what we were expected to do, and how, and why. If you want to make it right at least for the first time, spend the $1300 and go with them. They make it into a 3 day trip (vs RMIs 2 days), and your odds of coming back alive are greatly increased by going with someone that knows what they're doing, and has ready access to emergency communications (two-way radio and sat-phone if needed) instead of someone who really would prefer to NOT have anyone know they were up there. That was money WELL spent for my first trip up the mountain. And, I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.

What does "hybrid" crampon compatibility mean? Straps, and not clamps? I'm soon buying my first set of true mountaineering boots, and before I get out west to go searching through the stores, I want to have some idea of what I'm looking for. These look so light as compared to the double plastics I rented last summer (which were indeed a bit of a pain, but my feet didn't get cold) Thanks, all