the guilt
this is josephs route, wasn't everyone giving him shit for putting one in on an existing route?
Yes, because you could wander over and clip it from 2 other routes. So that ground fall potential was eliminated from all 3.
However, he pulled the bolt so feel free to ground. IMHOpinion, less folks will try a route that needs a friggan crackNup for the 1st piece way high up, and the moss will now be re-accumulating on the route.
any climber who would even bother climbing the third rail, reasonable richard and black maria would proly of have the intention of climbing:
A) Flight time 5.11c
B) Flying Circus 5.10c ®
C) Blood, Sweat and Smears 5.10c
D) True Grunt 5.11A (PG13)
E) Steppenwolf 5.10d
G) Flying Swallow 5.10d
in which none of these route are gimmes by any means. anybody who has intentions of doing theses route could proly pull that move unprotected with out a problem. how hard is that unprotected move anyway? so if you do put the bolt in what do we change the name of "local access only" to "make your self at home". take a vote.
why does jh carry all this tech gear anyway, i know he uses it on his own badass routes. why is it that his route get to be so baddo and burly using cack n ups and sliders and the existing ones get dumbed down so every jo schmo can climb them.
who's to say that the third rail hasn't been done already, who's to say i haven't already done it. i use to frequent that area and have climbed all over that slab, beacon has a history of some bad ass climbers out there and it would be nice to keep it burly in respect of the pioneers.
i got a project for joseph, why doesn't he go project flying swallow direct which is a 5.11a TR. it needs bolts and would make sense to throw some bolts in that one considering it's harder or of the same difficulty as the routes above. again the only reason i ever climbed on that part of was to get to the cherry routes above adn if someone can't get to those routes without the bolt well they proly have no business up on the route above.
when i come out next year i'll tell you what i think if you care, but i don't remember thinking bolt when i climbed in that area. seems like when you start throwing bolts
in people only do the route that have thema nd ignore the sweet lines. hell i wish five star restaurants would throw a hotdog on the menu so i can enjoy a nice atmosphere but at a low price.
peace, love and angst :kisss:
