tvashtarkatena

I got a fair amount of shit from a couple of 'hardmen' on this site for posting some early aid learning aid TRs. 3 years later I was standing on the summit of El Cap. Yup, my more experienced partner lead half again as many pitches as i did, but that didn't detract from the pure magic of that experience. Anyone who gives you shit about whatever technique helps you learn a new skill really needs to go fuck themselves. For every one of them, there are 100 who are cheering you on. In any case, the real hardmen - the cream of the crop, do not engage in that kind of crap. I fell 200 times my first lift day of skiing. Yup, I actually counted. Standard procedure. Don't worry about it. The joy will happen, freedom of fluid movement through winter's paradise will be gained, and it will be amazing. You're unlikely to become the best skier on the planet, but then, you probably won't be the worst, either. I'm not especially talented in any area of backcountry travel or climbing - but I'm OK enough to have incredible experiences with the folks I love in just about all of them, and that is more than OK with me.

You're trying to continue that utter trainwreck of a TR, that abject piece of idiocy that you posted against sage advice not to, and you know it. The mods did us all a HUGE favor, you most especially, by pulling it. Take the hint and give it a rest. I mean, seriously, what's your end game here? Are you seriously going to tell me with a straight face that you are truly interested in how bolts are destroying our mountains? Do we really need our 200th Raindawg salt lick on this site? Go do a climb. preferably one that doesn't take a public dump on park regulations, and post some stoke. It's the start of winter, everyone's bitchy, but some folks are still climbing, posting, and actually making our toughest time of year a little easier for the rest of us who have been kept city bound by other commitments. It's not a lot to ask for, really. Yeah, I should be following my own advice and doing this via PM, but this bolt war has no solution other than to just drop it, is widely participated in, and never seems to end, so this message is for the community at large. This has gotten really, really old, and the amusement factor died around the time of the dinosaurs. Q the usual suspects to inevitably point out the hypocrisy in my post (innernutz!), but I can safely say the desire to make this repetitive, pointless, yet contentious feud just go away is widely held. Finally, Smith is not a wilderness area. It's not even close to being one. It's a small, heavily trafficked State Park and has been that way for a long, long time now. But that's not, after all, what this thread is really about. It's about lashing back - and one of you two is going to have to put on the big pants and stop this crap. You want Ian to be that guy, or will you be the one to step up? Think of it this way - there's no more effective way to one up your opponent than to take the high ground. And let me ask you this: if you truly give a rip about keeping our planet wild, how much time and money did you donate to effective organizations that actually have track record of doing that? Is this thread your idea of saving the planet? Are you seriously going to foist a yes answer to that question on me, comrade?

It is interesting to listen to climbers complain about a garbagy fire ring rather than spend far less time just erasing it. I don't understand how any fire rings in, say, the Icicle cragging areas persist for long enough for anyone to notice them. If local climbers really cared as much as they say they do - they'd be erased on sight as a standard part of every trip. That's what we do - it may take all of a half an hour for a really big fire ring, but usually quite a bit less time for two motivated individuals. But no, let's post it on FB and talk about it! We also burn and/or cover TP sculptures left by previous artists. This is the ultimate FUCK YOU to future visitors in my book - other than the party sized pile of trash. I'm not sure what species raised these people, but newsflash: nobody wants to admire your poo pile. Spend the extra two minutes and take care of bidness the right way. Past that, I'll admit I'm more of a none-fair weather trail maintenance person (I try to target days that are completely useless for anything else). Among me pals, however, constant and unsung efforts as you've described are held with the highest esteem and affection. The Dtown boys immediately come to mind. A new 5.13 is impressive at some purely theoretical level, but that's not what wins our love and appreciation. That's not to say that true unsung stewardship and amazing climbing talent do not and cannot coexist in a single human, of course.

reckon this is my Q for a) calling somebody a narcissist, b) attempti to convince a stranger that i do, indeed, hail fron an ancestry that neither one of us cares about, c) staunchly defend a POV in a thread that is nonsense, or d). Big Man, i got free weekends - take a break from the bolt warz n lets go catch a fucking salmon in my kayak. got the particulars all werkd courtesy of one fine gentleman iver on NWH, plenty of BBQ wood, and no shortage of mouths to feed. Lets party and leave the Bickersons to their own divisives.

Well, I just put this one on my list for next fall. Beautiful trip, guys. Thanks.

Oleg, you are one thick headed human being. My God, take a hint already and take a break. Your last posting fiasco was completely self inflicted, despite prior warnings not to go there. I'm saying this as a friend. Cheerist.

Best shirt I've ever owned. Been looking for a replacement for a while and finally found this.

Skiing is a major investment. Decent gear is going to cost you 2K or more, even if you shop very carefully, unless you buy used stuff with some miles on it or just crap priced low because, well, its crap and nobody wants it. The best AT gear is pretty light - and it doesn't last that long (boots, particularly), so be mindful of that when buying used. If you're in it for the long term, you may not be saving money at all buying used. I've always considered skiing an necessary, not optional, mountain skill, so it was never a choice for me. I just wish I'd AT skied from day one is all, rather than bludgeoning myself with tely gear for so many years. Skiing isn't just a way to get someplace in winter. You can suffer in slowshoes for cheap if that's your only objective. Its a whole new journey; one that offers a shit ton of new freedom, beauty, capability, and uncut joy.

Rainier actually is World Class , and the crowds, which are concentrated primarily on only two routes, warrant additional regulation to prevent a punami. The climbing rangers I've met on Rainier have been wonderful; I have nothing but respect and gratitude for what they do, as well as the particularly kind and generous way they've treated my climbing parties in the past. There is no 'anti climbing ranger' or 'government is bad' argument here. Only an 'anti-climbing ranger at a local crag called Icicle Creek' argument, due to the very real risk, based on copious data concerning that particular district, that such a program will result in a permit system just for roadside cragging.

Learn to ski on good gear. Its more fun than climbing.

Well, the umpapa thing's been around a lot longer than you new 11worth immigrants. It transformed the town from a fruit warehouse to what it is today. I mostly ignore it, but do appreciate the better dining opportunities available because of it. Regarding your other attempt to expose hypocrazy on the innernutz!!!, you've employed to age old innernut technique of generalizing anothers argument so you can win. If you'd like to discuss my public policy work, that's probably another forum and format, but suffice to say that one solution to bad public policy is simply not to do it. Climbing rangers in the Icicle are expensive, not necessary, and may lead to a much more restricted permit system just to crag there. This is not a positive change in the view of many climbers. The USFS has, after all, exhibited a trend towards more fees, more permits, more enforcement, and more fines. This is a slippery slope issue regarding an agency that has proven where its headed policy wise over many years. I would also note the USFS didn't really engage the public at all in this regard - they provided a forum after the decision was made. If locals want a mountain biking trail system on ski hill, great. Who cares? That's not what we're talking about here, however. We're talking about the future possibility of a restrictive permit system in a roadside cragging area. That is a very bad precedent.

Its a World Class Local Crag.

You choose to live in T111KrautLand, you takes yer chances. Like it or not, an aging Merka's probably gonna dig the chicken dance even more with the passing years, so grab yourself a schnitzel and enjoy the umpapa show.

Um...I think the highways going in and out of 11worth are already at tourist saturation all season, so expanding the already substantial tourist base seems imprudent as well as probably impossible, unless substitution, not addition, is the objective. Plus, I don't at all agree with productizing the wilderness in any way, shape, or form.

Castle Rock is a World Class Crag, not just 'a crag'.

Been climbing on Castle for 30 years now and its just about as crowded, and not any more so, than it ever was. Never seen a real live waiting line there. Plenty to do for all who apply. In a world full of real issues, this one doesn't exactly electrify the cage much. Modernity! Things can and do just get better!

I won't go so far as to say this is all a PR campaign either - I'm not sure the dots are connected in such an ordered fashion in our universe, and it needs to be said that some of those folks who have worked with the new climbing ranger program have also contributed an enormous amount to this community in just about every way one can do that. I may disagree with them on this particular issue - not that much apparently - many of them aren't pushing for the rangers, just accepting the program as a reality. I believe a strong climbing community NO response would serve the future of that area far better. Preserve access? The only thing threatening access is the USFS itself, here. I say make the USFS go away and that problem is solved. Is this a trick question? I will say that rare, anecdotal, but attention getting events often become the cornerstones of many a PR campaign. (reefer madness with a side of partial birth abortion anyone?). This distortion of reality invariably makes for bad or unnecessary policy. I've been returning to rock climbing and, particularly the Icicle, this year a fair amount. I see little difference between the Icicle I first climbed in centuries ago and today, frankly. In fact, given the huge number of new routes, the place is more uncrowded than ever - depending on one's choice of crags. Considering the crowds (hint: its ALWAYS been crowded on peak days in the Icicle), the area seems to have been respected by most users, in addition to being a durable landscape by its nature. I believe there the evidence that supports the new climbing ranger program has been vastly overblown. I would wager the sum total of the damage being discussed (minus the paint job) can probably can be cleaned up in an afternoon of not very hard work. If local climbing organizations or individuals are so concerned about all this supposed damage - put on some grubbies and take care of it. So far, no one, including the USFS, has presented any compelling data or evidence that would come close to justifying two new paid positions in the Icicle. If trails are to be improved, new rangers are not a necessary part of the process. Quite the opposite - their salaries skim money that could actually be spent on trail improvement (more administrators, please!) I do look forward to more sign kiosks, however. The USFS really began one upping itself in the architectural wonders that are their newer sign kiosks after the NW Forest Program fleecing operation kicked in. America does love its signage. It always spruces the place up a bit, ya know? One note: The Icicle is not...even remotely close... a 'world class climbing'. Don't get me wrong, I love the place, but it is a local cragging area few travel very far to access. It should be managed as such - that is, very minimally or not at all. It should NOT be managed like true World Class Climbing Areas - those go to areas where route setters go to take their game to the next level. Think about how true WCCAs are managed, and you may find the end game for the new climbing ranger program. The debbils in the details. Words and their underlying philosophies often unveil the future. Regarding the bolt debate - an anti-bolt aid climber would likely trump an anti gay legislator who rents a boy for his vacation week. I like really nice anchors. I like living.

The permit system will come once Pandora's box has been opened. It Is Written (in the USFS playbook, particularly out of that office). Not much closeted about my opinions concerning certain federal programs (neither health care and food stamps being at issue for me). I give talks on government surveillance, drug policy, and a few other shenanigans our leadership has foisted upon us. Philosophically, the Baggers and myself couldn't be further apart our values and how things should be versus how they are, not to mention our church attendance.

Burlesque.

Clearly this is one more compelling argument for more heavily managing the Icicle - along with those 3 fire rings and that pile of misplaced boulderer poo. I believe step one should to get an Icicle Creek HR department in place - after the Mission Statement is agreed upon (allow six m months), then build an Icicle Specific corporate culture from there, as befits a World Class Climbing Area. Inviting the feds to manage anything is like asking a elephant to till your container garden. Good luck with that, my brothers! I await next week's installment of Icicle Outrage!!!! .

BTW, the current Cruziness is anything but stupid when youre consti constituents view shutdown as the ultimate anti librul FU wetdream. Irresponsible, unethical, and fantastically cynical, sure, but stupid? Hmmmm

BTW, the current Cruziness is anything but stupid when youre consti constituents view shutdown as the ultimate anti librul FU wetdream. Irresponsible, unethical, and fantastically cynical, sure, but stupid? Hmmmm

to clear up some glaring historical misperceptions: the NSAs secret domestic spying progrsm was started by GW in 2001. his administration justified spying on international comms (ostensibly, we still dont know exactly who or what was spied on due to its secrecy) by citing congresss military authorization fot the use of force, which Bush famously interpreted to mean 'do whatever you feel like doing' to fight the Terror War. Bushes intl comms spying program was essentially made legal by the passage of the FISA Amendments Act in 2008. Section 702 is used to justify the current practice of monitoring both meta data content, 2 hpos away, of all digital comms that pass through intl fibre optic trunks. FISA orders to sift thru the metadata of 37M Verizon customers (and mist likely those of every other majir carrier as well is justified under section 215 if the PATRIOT act (2001), another Bush admin idea. Obamaz NSA has certainly run with this ball, no doubt, but that ballz got Bushs autograph scribbled all over it. Theres much more to the current security state , of course, but Ill close by thanking a certain stripper lovin American in Moscow, who provided nearly every stitch of data on current NSA snoopiness.

dumbells bigger but harder to get to. greenwood is. rocky ridge - spots a bit below perhaps the saddle has spots

Stiffness, as in other systems, is key to a good alpine rock rope. Stiffer ropes tangle less when pulled. There's a huge difference here from brand to brand. Glacier ropes? Use whatever.