jared_j

A good alternative to the ID siltarp is a flat tarp from Oware. They have extra tie-out points in the middle of the tarp body that allow you to pitch them in a fashion that reduces exposure to wind and precip (on one side, anyway). Plus it has the versatility to be pitched as a regular A-frame. This has more versatility than any of the other flat tarps I've seen on the market. Picture of the tarp

I'm looking for crampon-compatible boots that are lightweight (so that I can carry them over) to be used alpine climbs that are primarily rock in nature, but require glacier crossing on the approach (e.g. Bugs). If I believe the outdoor industry marketing hype, the La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX is the boot for me. Tried it on, fit OK, but it is spendy. 1. Is it durable? 2. Any alternative suggestions that are less than 4 lbs?

I'm hitting this route on Saturday for the first time. How long does it take to approach, i.e. from the car to the top of the scree field (approximately)?

That is impressive! What was your footwear choice?

I've got a solid fat heavy Edelweiss rope that works great for cragging, but I'm looking for lighter weight options for alpine climbing in the Cascades. And by alpine climbing, I mean alpine rock with the occasional glacier crossing, and not the other way around. It seems if money were no object, the ideal would be to have one lightweight single rope for climbs only requiring a single, and a pair of lightweight doubles for use when you need doubles (e.g. double-rope raps or concern about rockfall). But, well, money is an object. 1. Any recommendations for lightweight singles? Alternately, any negative experiences with lightweight singles (e.g. abrasion resistance when dragged across rock)? 2. Any experience specifically with the Beal Joker (marketed as being used as a lightweight single, as well as lightweight enough to use as part of a doubles system)? 3. Is it safe to mix-and-match on doubles? i.e. if I get lightweight single (9.x mm) and another thinner 'doubles' - designed rope (8.x mm), can they safely be paired as doubles (I have a BD ATC guide device, and I think it can accept thin ropes just fine)? I've climbed on doubles a few times, but always friends' who had matching ropes. My competing priorities are weight savings, safety, and cost. I'd like to avoid having n! ropes in my closet, hence the question about pairing a light single with a double. Minimal spray and thread drift is appreciated! Thanks! EDIT: Clarification

Eric, I work downtown at Wamu Center on 2nd & Union. I could meet you during a lunch hour if you're within walking distance. PM me. Jared

Hey man, I have a med/large 40L Cilogear I can show ya, but I'm busy during the week this week. If you wanted to take a look-see sometime over the next weekend, I could arrange it. I live in Queen Anne. Let me know. Jared

Ditto on the Cilogear pack. I have a 60L, which is a good size if you want one pack to do most things. The construction is very lightweight (look at the website, maybe 3-4 lbs for a 40-60L pack). In addition, relative to the Cold Cold World packs advocated, the Cilogear packs come with a (removable) framesheet. The CCW are a 'soft' design. This is lightweight, and works well if your pack is loaded to the gills and cinched down tight, but having the rigid frame works better (IMHO) for carrying a less-than-full pack or awkward loads. The packs are extremely tough, and have a unique strap system that allows a high degree of customization and creativity in how you load/compress the pack. Plus Graham ('crackers' on this site and RC.com) provides excellent customer service. EDIT: I used the 60L for multi-day outings climbing Mt. Baker and Mt. Rainier, as Graham recommends, I also have a 40L which is ideal for cragging and overnight or lightweight backpacking.

I'd like to get some heavier - duty bar tacks stitched through the shoulder straps of my pack; there has been some slippage between the fabric on the outside (which holds the straps) and the internal padding. Any recommendations of how to go about this? I don't own a sewing machine, and I'm not really interested in learning.

I'd like to get some heavier - duty bar tacks stitched through the shoulder straps of my pack; there has been some slippage between the fabric on the outside (which holds the straps) and the internal padding. Any recommendations of how to go about this? I don't own a sewing machine, and I'm not really interested in learning.

Maxtrax, I've got a 60L that I could show you - I live in the Queen Anne area and work downtown. This weekend I'm going to Mt. Baker, but I can meet up with you an evening next week or next weekend. PM me. The pack is dope. I've only had it for a few months, but it carries very nicely and is definitely durable. Jared

I'm still relatively new to the Washington area (in the sense that I haven't gotten around to climbing all of the classic trad lines yet), but I've noticed that there are a lot of cracks that are not very parallel-sided. My question is: in ya'll's opinion, are offset cams (e.g. TCUs, Aliens) of use for protecting free climbs in this region? I don't have money burning a hole in my pocket for them or anything. Seems sensible to me, but I haven't used offsets so I can't really be sure. Thanks!

Is the skin on the underside of your fingers sensitive, or the tissue inside your finger? If it is 'inside' your finger, you could have mildly injured pulley tendons. A 'rupture' is when it comes fully detached (not what you have, you'd know). However, the pulley tendon can still be injured (think partially torn, in layman's terms) and sensitive. If it is 'inside' your finger where it hurts, I'd recommend trying to see a hand specialist (if you've got health insurance). If the pain goes away completely in between sessions, then this probably isn't it. If, however, the pain simply dissipates but is still noticeable all of the time (if light), then I'd definitely recommend a doctor visit. I just spent several months off completely because I didn't seek out attention earlier for an injured A2 pulley tendon on my right ring finger.

Can you give me some suggestions that fall into this category besides the single - walls you recommend? Thanks!

Everything I read and many experienced folk with whom I speak say that you need a serious 4-season tent for summer climbing on the volcanoes in the area; that at least a 3-pole design is necessary to deal with the high winds. and possible snow loads. Is this not correct and/or overkill?

How used is used?

My criteria is bombproof. I already have a lightweight tarp, so in my 'system' approach a sturdy more bombproof structure is chosen at the expense of greater weight is preferred. That the convertible has the option of also being a decent car - camping tent or even a 'compromise' backpacking option where a sturdier shelter is preferred makes it desireable. Looking for versatility for: -summertime high camps on volcanoes -car camping ease for timid girlfriends/other friends who don't wanna do the tarp -possibility of stripping down for occasional overnights where the security of a full shelter is preferred Bottom line: I don't want to get way deep into owning N! (N factorial) different tents and this looks like a good option. Sounds like what I'm hearing is this structure will be more than adequate for my needs.

I already have a Ray Jardine - style tarp for super lightweight camping. That said, sometimes I have a preference for a true tent with floor. Given this preference, I'm looking for versatility with an eye towards the structural integrity for dealing with possibly harsh conditions on the big volcanoes at high camps. Still, I'd like to be able to bust it out, say, for backpacking with my girlfriend (who isn't into tarp camping) or any condition when I think weather will push me to opt for more substantial shelter than a lightweight tarp.

I'm interested in this tent: http://sierradesigns.com/tents.display.php?id=65 This tent appeals to me because it is relatively spacious for its weight, and the 'convertibility' option is nice for ventilation and the occasional sub-alpine backpacking trip. An experienced friend of mine suggested that most sturdy 3 - pole designed dome tents with a taut pitch and internal stabilizers (as this one has) would be adequate for summer mountaineering in the Cascades (e.g. Squawk Glacier on Baker, Kautz Glacier on Rainier in July). Do ya'll agree with this assertion? I know that for utter bombproofness, I should be looking at something like the Trango 2, and for utter elegance, something from Hilleberg. But my budget isn't that big, and I'd like some versatility since I'm not spending every weekend in my tent. Opinions about the above assertion as well as specific input in regards to this tent are very welcome. Thanks!

While researching double plastic mountaineering boots, I came across this blurb on the ems.com website http://www.ems.com/catalog/product_detail_square.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442585170 regarding the Koflach Degre: "KOFLACH Degre Boots Designed for winter hiking, the Degre is compatible with Randonee ski bindings and nearly every kind of crampon and snowshoe. " I realize compatibility does not mean high performance per se, but does anyone here use their Koflachs on skis? If so, to what degre (pun intended) of success?

I have a 30L Cilogear pack (www.cilogear.com) that, if you take off the detachable waistbelt, and strip out the frame (but leave the foam pad in), is a pack that can ride 'high' on the back, has capacity, but carries comfortably. The Cold Cold World Valdez pack I think is also like this; moderate capacity, but without a rigid frame (yet still flexible frame-ish support) that can ride high on your back. They stock 'em at Feathered Friends, I think.

Are you single and unemployed? That sounds like a very serious time commitment.

I gave this a shot at Mt. Si yesterday, thinking that if I just didn't need to bend my foot at the ball (the way we normally do when we walk) then everything would just be dandy. I couldn't do it effectively walking on dirt uphill at Mt. Si yesterday; perhaps it'll just take practice. Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions!

I am taking a glacier climbing course starting very soon. I purchased some La Sportiva Makalus from Marmot Mtn in Bellevue, and I have been on 5 hikes of 3-5 hours each in them (mostly Mt. Si) over the last few weeks, once per week. These are the first mountaineering boots that I've had any experience with. The clerks at the store were helpful, and led me to believe I got the proper - sized boot. There is some roon in the toe box, they fit snugly around my foot and ankle. That said, on each hike in them, I've developed blisters on the 'back' of my heel. The sole is stiff, and my heel slides up slightly inside the boot as I step (since the sole does not flex). I have tried several sock/liner combinations, such as Smartwool Mountaineering-thickness socks coupled with Smartwool liner socks, but gotten blisters each time. If they were snug enough such that my heel did not move at all as I stepped (and the sole did not flex), then my intuition is that they'd be ridiculously awkward to walk in. How do I know if the boots are too big? Will there be some point at which the sole of these boots will flex at the ball of my foot and this will no longer be an issue? Any advice for this noob to mountaineering boots is welcome. Thanks!

I think the Volant is pretty rad, myself, but the cute young brunette salesgirl at Feathered Friends named Kat referred to it as "sick". I'll take her word for it...