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denalidave

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Everything posted by denalidave

  1. Define recently... judging by the picture I saw posted, this solo was done back when he and Dawg were slogging up-hill (both ways) in 3 feet of snow to get to the (unbolted) crag.
  2. Please provide an example of either Raindawg or Pope promoting their generation as better than any other. I don't think it exists. What we're promoting is a restrained, ground-up approach to bolting that would provide rock climbing enjoyment for many generations, instead of the grid-bolted mess that we currently have. BTW, I started climbing just as rap bolting/sport climbing were being introduced in the U.S. I didn't have any traditions to protect. As a young man, I analyzed the arguments and made a decision. Also, climbers who started the same time as I (or even before) are the ones who adopted and promoted sport climbing and they are largely responsible for the mess we have today. You seem to forget that sport climbing has been here for several decades. I would suggest that many young climbers have no idea that other options exist. I too started climbing at the beginning of the rap bolting saga (late 80's/early 90's) and climbed with great climbers on both side of the coin. As both sides argued endlessly about why they are so right, I could see there points. I am not going to waste my time digging up any of your old posts, but it sure comes across that you and the Dawg (among others) insist that your ethics are the only option, period. I don't want to see grid bolting at Beacon, or other trad areas, where trad ethic seems to be the norm. Grid bolting at a place like Ozone, however, great. I prefer to always climb trad routes over sport routes but there is a time and place for both. Perhaps, there is a bigger underlying issue with some, or most of the hard core purists? I think it is often all about ego and the more people that are able to go out and climb, the more the ego of the purists is threatened. If it was not the bolting issue, these ego driven purists would find some other excuse to downgrade the accomplishments of the Tommys, Beths & Sharmas rather that admit they are not the best in their field. (IMHO)
  3. What's wrong with the bolt it has, besides being ancient, tiny & rusty?
  4. The horror. The thought that "future generations" may need to figure out and expend the energy to yank a bolt (should the oxidizing metal last) is beyond the pale. More likely, they'll wish we'd had more impervious hardware while they expend the energy to fix replacements. Nice point... It seems a wee bit ironic that the old skool folk always want to tell us all how much better their generation was and how useless the up and coming kids are, now Dawg is telling us the future generation is going to have this old skool ethic and look down on the sporto generation of climbers. Can't have it both ways Dawg. Either your generation is the last of the greatest dying breed, or not. Make up your mind already.
  5. Hey, when are the Care Bears coming to this thread anyway?
  6. Yes, why THANK ME very much for giving you such and admirable and prestigious name. Course, I'm thinking of starting to call you Found Cam Kenny with you recent booty. I almost had your brand new baby out that day I met you last summer, but alas, it is forever part of the route now... The rock was hungry for cams that week.
  7. Heathen! Pinky rules! What other piece has its own fan site? Pinky Yes, yes... pinky is the only tricam that makes it onto my rack regularly. I finally just added pinky onto the biner with my nuts. Go pinky, you da piece!
  8. FYI - There is also a wasp nest at the Five & Dime wall on the last move or two of Sufficiently Breathless... Little bastards got me today. It is a small hive just past the last clump of grass/flowers before you can get your hands on the exit ledge
  9. I'm just so excited I finally made Dawg's coveted "list". Wow, now I've really got an accomplishment to put on my climbing resume. Plus, a Care Bear to cuddle with at the sporto-bivys. Thanks Dawg! sickie
  10. Ain't it the truth... 8D NOT!!!1 That makes two of us! Spank u very much.
  11. Bullshit. What Bachar demonstrated was what an incredibly bold and driven person can do in face of perilous risk. Bachar was an anomaly, I doubt we'll see another like him. Most people aren't even close to his league and never will be. You brought him up because you've done some bold climbing and soloing of your own and your point is "climbing should only be for the boldest and bravest among us....like me". Pure ego driven religious proselytization at it's best. I'd argue that alex honnold and some of the boulderers out there are in bachar's category...but then again, i don't climb anymore so maybe i'm outta touch... michael reardon was in bachar's category as well... been a tough year for climbing... What about Peter Croft?
  12. So lemme get this straight... the cat carries the rack, or you carry the cat with the rack?? Is that why this thing is called a cat rack...?? Sobo, you seemed like a real smart guy but you just aint get'n it. Cats are great natural climbers, so the cat carries the gear for you, duh. I have got to get one of those cat carriers though...
  13. Did you call the ranger station (509-427-8265) to see if someone turned it in there? I am headed over to Beacon later today and I will keep an eye out.
  14. Ride the bandwagon, "denalidave". Take the low road. I've added you to the list....done with you. (Congratulations for being in the midst of "distinguished company". And look what you've won!: Ah, shucks Dawg, I did not know you cared so much. My 6 year old will be thrilled, she loves Care Bears. You go on and sit on your high horse, knowing you are so much better than the rest of us. At least you will be right in your own mind. I've only me a few bolts I did not like, and I even clipped some of them. There is a time a place for everything, including a bolt here and there. Just like anything else in life, moderation is the key. Grid bolting is ok in some areas, bad in others. To each his own, too... Did Bacher ever clip a single bolt? Or even install one or more? If so, does that negate his free solo achievements? At least if I take the low road, I'll be in Scotland A-for ya!
  15. denalidave

    Mattress

    GP is right on here and you will get bonus hardman points when you look like shit the next day due to no sleep. I like my sleep, I climb better after a good nights rest. Hell, I flipped for the Tempurpedic mattress at home and it was well worth the $2200, or whatever I paid, as I no longer wake up with a back ache like I did 6 years ago before I invested in the best mattress I could find.
  16. Go Lil Dawg, go...
  17. denalidave

    Mattress

    I thought I'd step up to the hardman plate and do without my beloved fatty Thermarest on my last trip to do Prusik Peak in June. What I learned from that mistake is it was well worth the extra 2 or 3 pounds to get a good nights rest by bringing the Thermarest. I guess I am just a wuss, but that Z-Rest sucked and I did not sleep well at all. I won't make that mistake again... the fatty Thermarest and chair/cover are going with me next time, and every time there after. I sleep on my side or belly and can never get comfy enough to sleep with the foam pad. For car camping, I like the huge inflatable that also doubles as a floating siesta gizmo on the lakes. Yes, a good pad is worth the money. I have had my fatty Thermarest well over ten years now and no leaks yet. However, I took a cheapo inflatable on a 35 day trip up the north side of Denali and it popped early on. I tried to repair it several times with no success. My buddy punctured his Thermarest and his repair held the first time. ALWAYS buy the best gear you can get, you will be so pissed when the cheap gear fails out in the middle of no where (IMO).
  18. Plus you can bail on the hexes instead of the spendy cams... *cough*, not that I have ever bailed, *cough*
  19. Where do I get the cat? And in what kind of placements does it work best? Is a tabby better than a Maine Coon for off-widths? I have a seal point Himmy. Should I take him over the crazy tuxedo loozer that just shows up to eat and scratch the couch? Help... Sobo, you are so off track here... the cat is to carry the rack, not part of it. That is why you can have all the pieces you want and not worry about the extra weight. That thermarest pad all the gear and cat are sitting on is pretty pimp though.
  20. This must be the "protection" I keep reading about at the gym?
  21. I thought I would see some nice boobs with a thread title like this one...
  22. WOW! I'm hoping to get rid of my training wheels this year.
  23. Damn things are resorting to biting now? Shades of Mike Tyson. From the Chalkbag accessory collection. I hear Metolious is teaming up with raid to produce the newest super chalk, it is a powdered version of the wasp killer and also doubles as a round-up/cross bow herbicide. Sprinkle a wee bit in that nest or poison oak as you cruise by. Just don't snort it.
  24. Wheres these pictures?!!! Even Larry should know the tunnels are nice and cool.
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