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Everything posted by jfs1978

  1. rmick, oops how did I miss that? Boots are size 45 euro. For reference I wear size 45 Salomon trail running shoes, and 5.10 Guide Tennies at a tight 44. The boots technically "fit" my foot size but I have other boots that fit better and I never use them. js
  2. Steve - doubles of #9, singles of 8, 7, and 6
  3. Kevin, I'd also encourage you not to leave the table. As mentioned above...many climbers don't have anything against actual PLB usage and availability. Making it mandatory is the problem - for many reasons. Supporting legislation isn't a great way to go about entering this discussion regardless of your reason...imho. You start from that position and you will get a LOT of opposition from this crowd...before you have a chance to even enter the discussion. The only message that support for these bills sends is that you have no interest in a discussion, are uninformed, have not done your research, and have no intention of doing any research. Whether that's your intent or not...that is what I hear. On another note...it looks like your company provides only ACR products for rent. The size and weight of the unit alone keeps me from considering one...and I would be unlikely to use one even if available for rent. Any chance you will offer the newer McMurdo FastFind in the future? Much smaller and lighter.
  4. Monty thanks for what you and PMR are doing. It is appreciated. I do hope that as you are working with the OR legislature you emphasize that a requirement placed specifically on climbers is both unfair and ineffective if cost reduction is the goal. If climbers are required to carry a "signaling device" then every other outdoor user group requiring occasional SAR services should be required to as well - that means snow-mobilers, mushroom pickers, hunters, fishermen, back-country skiers, boaters, hikers, snowshoers, winter campers, and every other user group that accounts for more SAR calls and expense than climbers ever have... I'm certainly not advocating this...but I'd be willing to bet that if someone DID, the legislation would get shut down in a hurry. cheers.
  5. Washington Ice and alpine...?

    I have four days off...starting...um... now. To be honest I don't expect to be able to get anything big done on such short notice. And the last forecast I looked at for the area looked like The Suck (wet and warm) so... That said...any conditions reports for the Leavenworth area? North of there? Would anything be worth making a mad dash up there for, right now? Gradewise...hard to say...WI/AI4ish, low commitment and reasonable approaches considering my short window? Anything to recommend if I get another 4 day stint (coming from Oregon) later in the season? Bit of a gaper request. Thanks for any beta.
  6. Washington Ice and alpine...?

    Just saw some of the info in the Ice Climbing forum. Doh. Should have checked there first. Still, any info for an out-of-stater is welcome...
  7. How many people climb Mt Rainier in January?

    you might have some good luck finding information if you look in the Mt Rainier NP forum... The site has a search engine to look up trip reports...might want to give that a try.
  8. Sport vs Trad

    don't know'bout'the bone's, but my POTD award wears serious merit, and you my'man have earned it w/ the no-doubt wicked-ardous research that musta been necessary to root-out this gem Woot woot! serious merit indeed. I'll be mounting the award on my bathroom wall with a couple 3/8 inch Rawls - so as to admire it from my throne. Hand-drilled on lead of course.
  9. Sport vs Trad

    ... ....................... ............................................................ [img:left]http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/russian_roulette.gif[/img]
  10. getting off the monkey...

    heh, we were up the day before. I came close but would have felt too guilty bootying 18 draws off one pitch. I think I ended up with one old 'biner though...I'll consider it a booty tax... ah well. who had to leave all those behind though.
  11. getting off the monkey...

    ok thread drift here. sorry ivan but your thread reminded me... Just curious if anyone knows anything about the entire PR bolt ladder having draws hanging on it? Every bolt. Weird... If someone was working on freeing that face...I might expect four or five...not 18. We left 'em all hanging a couple days ago...despite the massive booty temptation. Just curious if anybody knows anything. Which one o' y'all's second had a little epic hissy fit and refused to follow? edit...heh, come to think of it, maybe Joel's got new tactics for beating his last time...
  12. What stole my food!?

    so...camped at the Turtle (9,200) for the Fuhrer Finger this past weekend. Woke up at 3am to the sound of my foodbag ripping down the Wilson outside my tent... "What the...?!?!?!" Hop out the tent...two yellow eyes lookin' (or smirking) back at my headlamp...my pack opened up...and my foodbag gone. I got some satisfaction out of the fact that it apparently had gotten away from the thief and was on it's way into a crevasse somewhere below. At least the little bastard didn't get my food either. We split the remaining food up and everything was fine...and we all came back more fashionably fit and trim. So...that was a first for me...couple thousand feet up the glacier I considered the food safe... my bad... So keep an eye out for critters y'all.
  13. Climbing Mt. Hood Next Weekend

    Trying to cram a "workout" in before work tomorrow...just SS if the going is good. Anybody have some current upper mountain snow conditions to report? Slogalicious thigh deep pow-pow...or has the wind kept things manageable enough for a quick ascent? No skis. I have yet to see the light. Sloggin' it out is the way of the true warrior...anyhoo. Yes, am looking at NWAC. Considerable above 6k. thanks and cheers.
  14. The Alpinist Gone!

    Some posts on the taco about it. Alpinist Re-launch on ST
  15. Shop Screwup question

    Odd. I'd expect much BETTER service at REI. A friend's skis were mis-drilled and they didn't even bat an eye when they figured it out. Chucked the screwed up skis and remounted on a new pair free of charge - no questions asked. Who knows, maybe the shop-tech got an earful from the boss later...but they treated my buddy right. Point being, I think that's the kind of treatment you should expect from a decent shop. Not the bs that Rotary got.
  16. Hood snow condish...

    Anyone up higher on the mountain today/recently for a conditions report? NWAC is suggesting moderate and low. Heard a report of a couple deep layers around 5 ft that haven't set up yet though...and it ain't gettin' supercold overnight right now. Thinkin' west side. Would do onsight eval...per usual...but any reports welcome.
  17. Hood snow condish...

    heh - stimulating. That's about right. A few whiteouts and a bit breezy...haven't been up there in anything crazy. I usually decide I like a cold beer and a warm fireplace too much to go up when things get nutty up there. But hell, nothing like a planned mini-epic to keep cabin fever at bay...
  18. Hood snow condish...

    Dang it. Three days off this week and a partner available for either NF or Reid HW or whatever...just in time for the next batch of crap to move in. Figures. Cragging it is. Anybody planning on heading up? I may still go if it doesn't seem to be getting too bad...but NF is probably off... Just publicly b****ing and whining. Pardon my moment of weakness.
  19. Hood snow condish...

    No cattle-path to the summit yet. But that won't last long... Hurry up. Some pics...
  20. Hood snow condish...

    WageSlave, if i could get my lame-a$$ home connection to upload the pics I would have...sorry. You aren't missing much though. Cheap-ass digi-cam pics and that side of the mountain was still in shade when i was there so not much to see really. I'll upload a couple if I can get things to work though. cheers. =)
  21. Hood snow condish...

    Yeah, it was warm today again. 40 in the parking lot at 4:30. Felt like a spring climb. FWIW I was going up to check out Leuthold, scrapped that with the high temps and nasty rime falling out of the sky everywhere. Headed up to the crater instead and watched a bunch of crap tinking and bashing its way down right after sunrise - mostly down the old chute - wide swaths of fist size chunks sweeping more often than looked fun to me. Scrapped that idea and decided to avoid what looked tempting around the crater rim too, for obvious reasons. Went down and took a couple pics of the Reid and Yocum. Looked good to me...but still wouldn't want to be anywhere near the bottom of those couloirs til she sheds some of the nastiness. Back in the parking lot around 10:45. Couple guys headed up as I came down - and I thought I started late... Curious what they found at that late hour... Solid sheet of ice and rime gargoyles everywhere above top of Palmer - more than usual for me. Yocum is of course covered. Wheeeee - have at it hardmen.
  22. Smith conditions this weekend?

    Past couple weeks have been a little rough...tough to say at this point. I usually say with anything under a 50% chance of precip at Smith, it's usually dry enough to climb. But with the crap moving through here right now, rain is a pretty good bet. Dec. 25th... Some climbable stuff if you were willing to brush off the holds, mostly not. The rain will have gotten rid of most/all that...but if you are coming a long way it's a risky bet. That said, come with an open mind and be willing to climb in some wetness...and you just might get lucky. FWIW, it was dumping rain in Bend today, and clear in the afternoon. Not sure about Smith.
  23. [TR] columbia river gorge - any 12/14/2008

    ok - not gonna beg fer hard earned local beta...but how worthwhile is it to come up from down south...and just drive down the gorge looking for lines? Dumb question? Waste of a day? Lost my copy of the only guidebook I had that had any gorge ice in it... Might make the drive regardless...getting desperate enough...
  24. Newbie Question: Rope Systems

    No need to over-complicate the issue for yourself. I wouldn't think of either as a "system" you need to "set up". Your primary challenge will just be dealing with rope management issues. More ropes at the belay just mean it's tougher to keep them from turning into a tangled mess. With twin ropes, both ropes go through each piece of protection, and with doubles they alternate. Simple really. I think Petzl catalogs might have some good pictures of this in action, or most any intermediate/advanced rock climbing instruction manual. Twins can essentially be treated like a single although the belayer needs to be attentive to twists and tangles. Usually running a finger between the ropes as they are fed into the belay device helps to keep them separated enough. The leader just clips and goes. Doubles present the same challenge for the belayer with the added complication of needing to simultaneously hold both ropes ready for a lock-off in case of a fall while feeding only one at a time as the leader clips. It's something that just takes practice. The leader just needs to keep track of what rope to clip where, call which rope is being clipped to the belayer, and keep the ropes from wrapping/twisting around each other.
  25. Mt Washington approach conditions?

    7/10/08 Snow is patchy the entire way in. PCT is pretty clear...gets more continuous just before hitting the N Ridge climber's trail. North Ridge route is clear of snow the entire way...but east side of ridge still has a good shelf of snow if you want to use it to bypass some of the scramble.