Good2Go

Going along with what Rad said, and assuming this was an unplanned bivy, it's nice to be able to follow the rules as a respectable user group and then get a little leniency when something happens and you get benighted rather than flaunt the rules and get stuck with more ticketing when you are already having a bad day/night. Playing by the rules goes both ways. I have no problem with the Rangers asking to see my permit when I'm actually camping in the zone, but I object to them (1) stopping me when I'm not camping and/or (2) asking to look in my pack (which is what it sounds like they've been doing lately). The 4th Amendment to the US Constitution says the govt. needs probable cause to search my bag (except in very limited circumstances, and identifying whether I have a camping permit ain't one of them). Based on that, I would tell them to go fuck themselves if they ever ask to look in my bag.

Ingalls Creek trailhead is off Hwy 97 on the N side of Blewett. "Ingalls Lake" trailhead is in the Esmeralda Basin, at the end of the Teanaway Road (and is the usual access point for the W Ridge of Stu). You can park a few hundred yards before the lot at the end of the road in a pullout w/out a pass. Just make sure you park before the Forest Pass signs.

So, what's the solution (if not herbicide)? This stuff is growing into the trail. Almost unavoidable at this point.

It's poison ivy. There used to be a warning sign with a picture of the plant (smooth edges, not serrated like poison oak) posted on the sign at the trailhead at the base of The Castle.

I skied the B-day tour and Kangaroo Ridge couloir on Saturday. Snow was consolidated (corn) pretty much everywhere. Cornices were a non issue as well. Spires are mostly snow free.

What failures? I've been using them for several years now without incident. I know they had a recall a while back, but haven't heard anything about recent issues. Is your info current?

Was it on a road? Not saying that would be OK, but would be much more understandable, if they were unintentionally crossing the boundary. Also, I'm a backcountry skier and snowmobiler, and have been trying to serve as a bridge between those communities (and it's been tough). I try to get the word out whenever there is a boundary violation reported, to get other sledders who may know the violators to tell them to knock it off. Would you mind sharing more details on the location, for that purpose? PM would be fine if you want to protect your stash.

Sweet. Check you PMs

Yo Pete - Sweet avatar pic. Got sled?

Um, the skiing's been killer lately, at least in the backcountry.

You're wrong about sledders not having to buy the special trail permit. Here's the relevant excerpt from the WA Parks site: "Special Groomed Trails Permits This permit, in conjunction with the seasonal permit, is required at only the following eight sno-parks: Cabin Creek, Chiwawa, Crystal Springs, Hyak, Lake Easton, Lake Wenatchee, Mount Spokane and Nason Ridge. Snowmobile seasonal permit holders must purchase this sticker when using these Sno-Parks for non-motorized activities. (Funds from its sale pay for more frequent trail grooming at these Sno-Parks and the maintenance and replacement of snow grooming equipment owned by Washington State Parks.)" Also, I believe the difference in cost between snomo and non-snomo permits is attributable to the fact that snomo grooming is 100% paid for out of snomo permit fees. Snomos can't use the areas groomed for non-motorized use, but non-motorized users can use all of the areas groomed for snomos (i.e., they "get more" for their permit dollar). I also think the number of non-motorized permits is significantly lower than the snomo permits, because the permit is included in annual vehicle registration and is not optional. I'm sure this won't assuage many of you from calling the state to complain about this astonishing injustice, but at least you won't be armed with mistaken assumptions.

You're totally wrong (but way to run with it). They only get paid for actually plowing, they just have some discretion over when that occurs, which is intended to benefit the greatest number of users. Good luck fighting that snopark ticket!

There is limited pool of plowing funds for each snopark each year, and they generally leave it to the discretion of the plow drivers to determine when to plow, with the intent that they will plow it when it needs it most (like when it's actually snowing). Plowing begins when it is determined to be required to access the snopark and pretty much always ends at the beginning of March (sometimes sooner, when allocated funds run out during big snow years), so no sense bitching about that. And I heard the plowing and grooming fund was reduced about 20% this year due to a falloff in snowmobile registrations (which include a motorized snopark fee), so better get used to shoveling.

Just a heads up. I noticed last week that both of the belay/rappel bolts at the top of the 2nd pitch of DH are loose (could turn both with my fingers). Kinda sketchy to rap off in the current state.

Getting to the first placement may be easy for you, but not necessarily for a leader who is just able to handle the grade and is making an onsight attempt. I know of two people who have fallen onto the bolt in question. Are you saying it should be removed to make the route more difficult for leaders of your calibre (i.e., how the the FA "should have" rigged it in the first place)? And, what does Sloe Children have to do with this discussion? The 2nd pitch of CP is a great climb in and of itself. Hardly just a stepping stone along the path to SC.

The original bolt was likely in good shape when Doug T first lead the route 17 years ago, so it's hard to understand how the experience has been diminished for a first time leader by returning it to the same condition as when he took his first lap. What's more, the block that previously sat on the ledge below the bolt made it trivial to get to the "bomber" nut placements he referenced. That isn't the case anymore. I've lead the pitch several times since the block disappeared and I did not identify any good placements to protect the moves getting to those pin scars. I've got the moves pretty much dialed at this point, so the bolt doesn't seem necessary to me anymore, but that doesn't mean it's superfluous for a first time leader who is just competent at the grade. The FA made the decision to place the bolt on everybody's behalf. Any objections should have been raised with them.

We skied Ulrich's last Saturday. Continuous snow on the road starts 5+ miles from 29 Pines. I would say a car-to-car summit would not be unreasonable for a fit individual at this point. And, the skiing conditions are killer right now!

There are plenty of moderates at Index, you just have to be creative to link them up. Here's another option for you: Take Lizard/Aries (tons of variations) to the top of the LTW, then scramble up from there to the Winkie Dinkie Cliff and do Gorilla My Dreams (you can also throw in Timberjack while you're up there for extra milage) and then scramble up from the top of GMD to the Mid Wall and do Plum Pudding (there are a couple other good moderates up there as well). The hardest pitch in that linkup is GMD which is rated 10a. (BTW - GMD is bolted like a sport climb, but I highly recommend bringing a few pieces to protect getting to that first clip.) You can also do the same linkup starting with Roger's Corner and Breakfast of Champions, but it's a bit harder that way. If you return to the base of the LTW by hiking out the Mid Wall trail, you can also hit #9 and Starfish, which are both entertaining moderates located near the Blues Cliff. (Check out RCNW for details on those two, as they are relatively new). You can also descend from the Mid Wall by rapping, and if you choose that option, I'd recommend scrambling down to the anchors for Dr. Sniff (follow the trail down from Winkie Dinkie toward the top of Breakfast then go skier's left to the Dr. Sniff anchors). That way you can top rope it on your way down. Never a lineup on that one. After toproping it, you'll see why. Can't wait for Index season!

I'd say they're staging a pic for the back cover of a guidebook. Looks cooler that way. Better question is how'd that route get such a sandbagged grade? 10d my ass! Makes Sloe Children look soft.

Did you only look at RMI and IMG? I'm pretty sure smaller guide services can also get one-off permits for groups like yours nowadays. Have you tried Northwest Mountain School?

How was the skiing?

Cascade badasses routinely do the CNR car-to-car in under 20 hours. It's always taken me (not a hardman, but cardio fit and can easily climb at the grade) longer. Sometimes much longer. If you're doing the CNR, it can take 7+ hours just to get on the rock from the Ingalls side approach. The 50 Classics version is much shorter. Normal folks should be able to loop it in under 20 hours. That said, you WILL epic if you end up having to either climb the ridge or descend the Cascadian in the dark (makes Aasgard seem manicured). I would operate on the assumption that it will take normal folks about 5-6 hours to get to Goat Pass from the lot and about 2 hours to get on the Ridge from there. If you are likely to be challenged by the climbing and/or a slow hiker or both then expect it to take longer. One option is to approach via Long's and ditch your bivy gear at the Long's Pass/Ingall's Creek Trail junction. Going in this way won't cost you much extra time or vert (about an hour) and if you flash the route you can just grab your bivy kit on the way back to the car. More likely, you'll be very glad to use it when you get there. Good luck!

I've climbed that route 4 times and never once did I think crampons (aluminum over approach shoes) and axe (normally a small Grivel 3rd tool) were unnecessary. In fact, I've seen several parties turned away for not having brought them. I find it amusing that folks who " get away with it" one time on a warm day seem to always suggest that they won't be needed on future climbs. If the area just before notch is frozen, it will be very dangerous w/out points (fall = death). Bring lightweight axe and pons, skip the bivy kit and do it car-to-car.

4 #2's?????? are you at the creek?? I wish I was at the creek! Love that place! My beta was tailored for a leader who would be pushing their onsight limit on the 2nd pitch of Rattletale. Laugh all you like, but that pitch is a vertical to slightly overhanging splitter that only takes #2s for about the first 25', until it tips back and widens. Unless you can cruise it, you are risking decking on the belay ledge by going w/ less than three #2s and even then they need to be spaced perfectly. Having four of them allows you to sew it up. I can fire that pitch pretty easily nowadays, and I still bring 4 #2's, so I guess that makes me a pussy. I'd rather be a pussy than a hardman with a broken ankle.

Are you talking about the 2nd pitch of Rattletale? That's what I was referencing, and my beta was tailored for somebody who would be challenged trying to onsight a splitter at that grade. It only takes a #1 at the very bottom, which becomes worthless 10' above the belay. Then it's only #2s through the end of the slightly overhanging bit. And then it goes wider to the finish. I'll bet you $20 you can't find a useful placement for a .75 on that entire pitch.