Julian

When you say "their lot", is that including the lower lot, or just the main lot around the ski lodge?

Anyone have conditions on the Reid and/or Leutholds? Was thinking about soloing one of them this weekend. How's the descent and crossing on the Reid glacier, much danger of hidden cracks for the approach to either route?

I have used the Arc'teryx Acto MX or Gamma SL Hybrid (usually with a Phase SL or Phase SL + Phase AR combo, depending on the temperature) underneath with good results in both the PNW and the Southeast. This summer I soloed Hood with the Phase SL + Phase AR + Gamma SL Hybrid combo; I didn't sweat at all until I was well on the way down and the sun was beating down on me. Perfect setup for light-and-fast movement. I also really like the OR Radiant Hybrid and Centifruge hoodies. Both work great for ice climbing and mountaineering with only a wicking layer underneath, as long as you have a warm belay jacket. I climbed Rainier last summer wearing an Arc'teryx Ether t-shirt under the Centrifuge, with an Atom SV for stops and above 13k or so.

I defer to the good doctor on this one. Raphael Slawinski, probably the least self-aggrandizing climber out there, has never called Wolverine, Spray On/Spray On Top waterfall ice climbing. He's referred to Wolverine as Spray Ice 11 in his blog, which I think is his way of disagreeing with Tim and Will's grading of the route without making a big deal of it. Raphael has also said in his blog, "Spray On Top is one of the most unique, varied and fun mixed routes I have ever been on." Spray On Top involves several pitches of mixed climbing in addition to the pure spray ice sections. The grade given for its pitches is WI 10, WI 9, M6+,M8, M7, M9+, M6, M6. First of all, I don't think either Will Gadd or Tim Emmett need to beef up their resumes at this point to get media attention. I mean, if Wolverine were graded M11 with the exact same video, it would get just as much attention. I'd say the audiences at Reel Rock Tour for the Spray On film were more in awe of the climbing and location than the grade. And despite Raphael being one of my climbing heroes, I don't see how his view is worth any more (or less) than those of the other climbers who have put up big new routes at Helmcken. Whether you call it Spray Ice 11 or Water Ice 11, the implication of the grade is pretty clear. Since when does the protection determine what medium is being climbed? Rock climbing = rock, mixed climbing = rock and ice or even just pure rock with ice tools, ice climbing = ice. I think Will dealt with that aspect pretty clearly when he was asked about the grade of Spray On (the original 1 pitch version) and he made it pretty clear that he considered the physical difficulty of the climbing more relevant to the grade than the quality of protection.

How is something an M-climb if the tools and feet are constantly on ice and you have to swing for many placements? Watch the video of the first ascent of Wolverine (W11) and explain how that's mixed climbing. Because it has bolts and they do figure-4s?

I'm not sure if you mean this specifically to Adam Ondra or in general. If it's the former, then it would be more a case of him just needing to practice the technique first. If it's the latter, then you might want to check out the list of offwidths Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall onsighted when they tore through the US last year. And these are two guys who mostly trained for it on a basement woody.

The hardest slab climb in the world is probably James McHaffie's route Meltdown on the slate in Llanberis, which is estimated at 9a/5.14d. To put this in perspective, hes's being projecting Rainshadow 9a at Malham for a while now without redpointing it, a route which Adam Ondra dispatched in a few tries. The best sport climbers can get up just about anything, if they want to. Also, it's worth acknowledging that all the best trad climbers in the world right now (Dave MacLeod, James McHaffie, Matt Wilder, Alex Honnold, James Pearson, Stevie Haston, etc.) all climb 5.14+ on bolts and/or V13+ on boulders.

I love all this talk about how granite would shut Ondra down on an onsight, when he onsighted Jorg Verhoeven's route Nordic Flower (8c+/9a) on granite in Norway, with double ropes and something like 16 quickdraws on his harness when he left the ground.

Is that available online anywhere? I'd gladly pick up another one at that price.

The OR Centrifuge is one of my favorite pieces of softgear, maybe my single favorite. I wear it more than any other jacket/hoody I own. Base t-shirt (Arc'teryx Ether), OR Centrifuge, and Arc'teryx Atom SV is a combo I used on Hood, Rainier, and Shasta this summer with great results. It's also perfect for ice climbing in mild temperatures.

Damn, that's a freaking steal. I'd buy it if I didn't already have an almost-new one.

Squamish is graded soft to make up for the fact that the Canadian Rockies are a sandbagged horror show.

Ice axes are used to pound pins, torqued into cracks, employed as crowbars on loose rock when cleaning mixed routes, and all sorts of other high-impact stuff. I don't think falling on a rock with one is going to harm it much.

This is a steal, I have this jacket in Medium (if I was a Large I'd consider buying this one as a second) and it's an amazingly versatile piece. I wore it all the way up Hood, Rainier, and Shasta this past summer. Probably the best-designed midlayer hoody I've worn.

Nice job and good pics! Middle is a fun climb that isn't really any harder than South, you'll enjoy it if you do it.