mountainmatt

More real than a 270 pound 5'2" guy that climbs 14s (or 15b/c)

Lets avoid the thread drift here and stay on topic (at least somewhat). What are peoples thoughts about the limitations of climbing levels in terms of weight? Any med people out there want to comment about the weakness of bone structure, tendons, etc?

Thanks for that, you just replaced the whale in my dreams.

Your sex life must be very interesting...

Part of this conversation is to discuss the physics of climbing. Bone, tendons, and muscle can only go so far in climbing. You are not going to send 14s (with the exception of eviltradclimbguy) if you weigh well over 200 pounds.

That would be great to see. Sharma at 270! Haa haaa haa

Way to weigh in on the subject! We can all sleep well tonight.

Then what about weight? Someone that weighs well over 200 (or possibly even 270) is going to have a hard time pulling on small edges of a 11 or 12 (not to mention a 14 or 15 b/c).

I think that there are routes that have a different rating if you are short versus tall. In general being tall helps a lot, however there are cases where being tall makes the move too hard. When Lynne Hill sent To bolt or not to be, she had to discover all kinds of intermediate "edges" to alow her to get up the route. Do you think it was really a 14a for her?

I slept in an EV3 this summer and really liked it. There was a lot more space in it than I thought there would be (three people plus our packs). There was little/no condensation when we had the vents slightly open.

But weight has more to do with it than just muscle. How many people do you know that weigh 220+ that crank hard?

Just interested to know what the relation is between someone weight and their top climbing level. I know that thin wirey people with huge ape indexes can climb hard, but what other body types?

Are you sure you are not interested in the 12th man?

Until she rips it off...

I wanna climb there, hook me up

Sad for sure

Boulder canyon can be in depending on the year. The advantage there is you can do some single pitch ice in the morning, take a lunch break, and rock climb at table mesa in the afternoon in the sun.

I wish I could quit you...

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Not sure if this will help, but here you go anayway I did a lot of 24 and 48 hour adventure races when I lived in the midwest and I came up with my own little nutritional strategy that works well for me. Like you, I cannot injest gu or bars forever or I start to feel sick and eventually stop hiking or puke. For me the key was actually eating a slightly more normal meal to fill up my stomach some and to give my palette a rest from all the bars. I would alternate a bar or a gu every 45-60 minutes for the entire race and every 6 hours I would eat a "real meal" which for me consisted of beef jerky, string cheese, and a couple rolls. If I could get a peice of fruit, I would eat that as well (usually a banana). This is when I would also take salt tablet depending on how hot it was. This strategy worked well for me and has allowed me to go for up to 31 hours straight without wanting to vomit. For a drink system, I always used a 4:1 ratio of water and gatorade. I have not tried Spiz yet, but I am interested in checking it out. Just not sure how I feel about drinks that contain fat and protein...

Aren't you supposed to snort coke?

Ooohhh, I need to get on that route again. Had to back off back in the late 90s...

When I arrived in WA (Feb), I was leading 8 trad / 9 sport, and at the end of summer I am leading 10 trad / 10+ sport. I have been here a little over 8 months now I have done the following (chestbeat!): Baker - Easton Rainier - Emmons (attempt, melted out) Guye peak Dragontail/Colchuck linkup Dragontail - Serpentine arete Tooth - south face solo, NE slabs (attempt, too much avalanche activity) Mt.Whitney - slog route Boundary peak - slog again Lots of cragging: Squamish - 4 weekends (Ultimate everything, Diedre, bannana peel, calculus crack, mosquito connection, many others) Darrington - Silent running Vantage - Most of sunshine wall and the feathers Index - Lots of time on the lower wall and Green Dragon on the upper wall Smith - Zebra zion, many other nice lines Exits - averaging about once every 2 weeks or so, running out of lines I can do... All this and I had to take a month off due to an injury. Can't wait to get my first ice season in here (assuming I can find the ice and someone to go with).

FYI: Make sure you bring a stick clip for the upper bolt ladders

She did several times, now we just have to wait for the sex tapes...