Delmarco

Is this still available?

nice

About the same financially (same job(s)). Better mentally (BA to MUP to MS). Worse physically (my belly's fatter). About the same romantically (same dame). I do think that I'm alot less happy over all with everything going on in the world especially the USA.

Thanks Dane. What is this "-25/30c"? Celsius? -25 to -30 celsius*? If so that is pretty warm for a single leather boot-The Nepal Evo! *transalated to -13 to -22 Fahrenheit!

How warm are they? In NY we tend to either end up ice climbing in 40 F degree weather one day and then sub zero F degree the next day. Sometimes you get both weather in one day of climbing and plastics aren't the most comfy and versatile so I'm this month looking to update my Koflach Verts with these new popular GTX Nepal Evos. I just don't want to give up the warmth. Everyone says they are the shit, but no one seems to have an agreement on how much "more warmer" they are than other leathers and how "less warmer" they are than double plastics?

I'm in the same boat. I been climbing ice the last 2 years with my plastic Koflach Verticals (which I got a few years ago for a Torres Del Paine trip). My problem with the Verts is not wieght (those babies are as lite as sugar waffles), But as my climbing improves I want a little more flexibilty and Everyone is telling me to get Sportiva Nepal Evos but no one can tell me how warm they really are. I tend get cold feet during belays. I learned that the hard way from an rental plastic Koflach Degres that gave me damp, cold feet in sub zero Adirondaks weather so I'm worried about trading warmth for something way more agile than the Verts. But the Evo's or the Baturas seem to be what I may need. Does anyone really know how warm those Nepal Evos are? Also can you use them comfortably (without sweaty feet) for a Summer/Fall alpine trip in the rockies?

That Merrell "Fill-it-yourself" Gatherer Jacket is tizight!

sickie Don't get it twisted huckleberry! LMAO! Hear something funny, I did an Semester Long Alpine Mountaineering Outward Bound Course in 1994 when I was wee lad in HS and I did this 3 day marathon challenge (where we had to run a distance of 28.2 miles whiles picking up trash along the trail and running with it. At the end your garbage was weighed in and compared to other teams garbage), We won first place and I got a lifetime subscription to that Backpacker magazine. I went away to college, moved to San Franscisco, then New Jersey, then I came back home to New York and found my Mom kept about 7 years of unread magazine in my room. All that time I was travelling I forgot about it. I collected them and I spent a month reading all 7 years of that Magazine which is how I got back into the outdoors. Now I live in Westchester and I still get them every month (but lately I think my neighbor has been stealing my copies). EDIT: Oh...we won that challenge because the morning of our last day we found a fking 19th century rusty metal chimney deep in the San Juan mountains and we ran that shit all the way to the finish line. Team Vader of Leadville 1994!!!!!

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! (washing eyes out with soap!)

That might be a good idea. Did you ever follow thru with this? SummitPost is not that thorough and pretty rustic with some of what they have reviewed there. There is a BackpackerReview.org (google it, my spelling is off) website that reviews gear via user submission and they require pictures (especially of stuff being used in the field), and full articles for reviews with pros and cons. It is not some fanboy talking about how TNF makes the coolest jackets, like most other review sites, or some $1000 Sat Phone that 99% of us won't ever buy or need being reviewed in Outside Magazine. But that site has realistic, indepth and impartial reviews of stuff that people actually buy and toil in. It need more membership and traffic to be better, but it is along the same line of what you are thinking of. Trailspace.com is another site that is decent for gear reviews. But they are specific to big name brand commercial American stuff like the N.Face and Patagania and you prolly wont find CiloGear , Granite Gear or eVent gear like Loki on there. Another really great site for innovative gear is OutdoorsMagic.com. This UK based website usually not only gives you juicy, indept reviews of what is already out there, but often "sneak previews" various brands full line of what is coming for the next season. The only downside is this site is UK based and you prolly won't recognize names of what they are talking about (their GoreTex is eVent and their NikWax is Granger) and they review brands that are hard to buy in the USA like Lowe Alpine, Eider, Ajungilak, Mammut, Millet Berghuas, Haglofs and the current God of all outdoors brand "Mountain Equip". Still they are pretty keen on what's really good, what's not and they have full articles on gear care and even buying gear.

That is funny! There is a PayLess Shoe store in LIMA! Starbucks I expected, but Payless...

Awesome! I love the summaries beneath each compilation. Well written.

That scarf is soooo ghey! LMAO! You could buy that same scarf off the street vendors in NYC for $5.00 and I'm sure you can trace both the street-sold and Arc'teryx branded scarf back to same factory in China, yet I bet Arc'teryx are selling their "technical" scarf for $50.00! That is where I lose respect for a brand. List already includes Nike, TNF, Patagonia-somewhat, Dana Designs/Marmot(just how that all went down), and now Arcteryx. Everyone should pick up the latest copy of Backpacker magazine. They have a great arcticle, actually its a section, in the back that is a Gear Guide based on what brands makes stuff where and how "fair and green" certain brands are in terms of production and labour.

Okay. I spoke with an American seamtress from a similar outdoors company (whose name I will not say) who informed me that Made In China is not all that bad as it sounds. In fact, the quality can even improve as some companies use the extra money saved from labour to put towards design and fabrics engineering. She did tell me labour conditions in China can be much harsher than American factories, but in regards to low pay; What may seem like peanuts to us can actually feed and house a factory worker and his/her family for a week in China. No they are not going to be buying BMWs and shopping at the trendiest malls, but a factory worker's priorities in China are basically food, shelter and saftey before the luxuries that we call norms here in America. So when we choose not to buy products in China we are mainly choosing not to support exploited labour and not to support corporate greed. It has little to do with quality. People work hard an dwith much skill in any country on the planet. Its just the Chinese are willing to do it for less pay, or enough pay that feeds and shelters them. Whiles Americans need 401 Ks, big homes, two plasma TVs, Two SUVs, Christmas bonuses, health plans, Coffee before work, cigarette breaks, 1 hour lunch, weekends off and comapny perks to do the same damn thing!

One could make a case for these jobs raising the standard of living/increasing opportunity for these people, but the true question is why are these people worth less? An Economics 101 course would be helpful to you. It's troubling when the reality of the vast improvement of hundreds of thousands of individual people's lives conflicts with one's socio/political paradigm, yes? Ever read the Time Machine by HG Wells... Everytime I go into a well lit, well air conditioned department store with the nice mind-numbing lite-FM Jazz music playing overhead for the hundreds of shoppers and I see an item on the rack, whether it be food goods or clothing, if the tags say made in China or Asia its usually way cheaper than items made in USA or Europe my mind goes back to the Time Machine. In the story we go underground, in the dark, damp caves where the Moorlocks slaved and made everything perfect for the well lit world above where the Sun People consumed everything bought to them. The Sun People stayed in total oblivion to what was going on in the workshops down below. For the Sun people, their world was perfect and in harmony with itself. However, it was not and there was always a balance to be paid and the Moorlocks made damn sure it was paid! In the story we eventually find out at the climax that the totally dependant Sun People would literally die without the Moorlocks aide. The Time Traveller soon realized it was the Moorlocks who where the true masters of the planet and the idiotic consumers, the Sun People, where in fact slaves being farmed by the Moorlocks for meat (Spoilers: The Moorlocks were cannibals and ate the Sun People whom they clothed and fattened with gifts and fresh farmed foods). Anyway..the production abilities of Mexico, China/Asia and even parts of Eastern Europe versus our American/Western Culture consumption abilities tells a similar tale that may have the same or a parallel climactic result as the Time Machine story. When these fast growing productive 3rd World Countries develop economically, militarilly and financially to a 1st World status will they still want to be the bitches of the western world or will they invade our country and take over our consumption dependent economies. Which brings me to a quote a wise man once said; "An economy based on consumption will always be weaker and eventually fall prey to the economy based on production"

That is crazy that we are so dependent on China for simple things like sewing. God forbid we piss them off and they hold embargos! There will be alot of naked, hungry Americans walking around the place that can't help themselves for sh*t. On a lighter note, I'm sure there is technology and manufacturing machines out there that permits a company like Arcteryx to make 40,000 jackets a year in Canada with about 400 employees. Most of the Arcteryx jackets are procured and laser cut by very simple to operate, moderately technical machinery. They are not hand stitched by a couple of Betsy Rosses sitting in a log cabin all day. Moving these machines to China to make the same garments wouldn't affect quality as much as it would lower costs and exploit cheap labor. Herein lies my problem with it; I don't expect quality to drop, but I know for a fact, ProShell fabric costs or not, the $599 jacket made in Canada last year is not costing Arcteryx the same money this year to make that same $599 Jacket in China. We are talking major company savings on labour costs(Annual Salaries, Health and Benefits, Retirement funds, Pensions, Local Operating Taxes and Costs, Etc...) that no longer exist when you hire someone in China for pennies an hour! And even with shipping costs that $599 Jacket costs about $50 to $100 to make in China today whereas it used to cost about $400.00 to make back in Canada. I have no doubt the quality is the same since the machines are all the same, but the people operating the machines are working longer hours for far far far less pay. Whether that affects quality can be argued but whether that lowers the moral standard of the Western Capalist world in which we are all born into and all an active part of is not an argument but a fact!

Interesting...I'm less upset because I thought the quality was poor. In fact, you won't even be able to tell it was made in China without looking at the tags. I've worn the "Made In Canada" Arcteryx gear and its almost no difference. In the past I stayed away from Arcteryx because of the high prices until a few years ago I learned their stuff was actually made in Canada, hence the hefty price tags, rave reviews and the consistent quality and design. So when I paid $450 for the Theta it was because I wanted my money to go to a company that was keeping it real with customers and understood us and what we do with gear after we spend most of our paychecks on it. Not only did I find out Arcteryx moved to China, but they are also keeping mum on it, whiles keeping the price tags higher than ever before. That's where you begin question the morals and greed of the people running the company. I don't mind the move to China if that works for them (the way cheap, skilled, 3rd World labour usually works for 98.7% of Western companies), but they need to advertise that to customers, ensure that quality is consistent, and no international environmental and child labour laws are abused. By them keeping silent about the move, makes me not trust them. Because of that I totally see Arcteryx becoming what The North Face became in the mid to late 1990s...just another greedy company with no morals, no mission statement and absolutely no repsect for it's customers sensibilities beyond getting our money in their pockets.

I hate to answer my own thread... but after a google search I thought this was interesting http://www.sustainableisgood.com/blog/2007/06/arcteryx_shifti.html

I just bought a 2008 Theta AR Proshell from Paragon Sports (a major outfitter store in NYC) and it was when I got home I realized the tags say Made In China. I immediately contacted the store and they told me the jacket was authentic and that the brand usually makes items in China and other parts of Asia, but they were not sure which items are made where. After getting a number for a the Arc'teryx Rep and calling them, I got the run around from Arc'teryx and was still left wondering what the hell I $450 paid for? From what I could piece together after multiple calls to various rep folks that don't know the whole story is some smaller items like fanny packs and head wear were made in Asia whiles others pricier items like the Alpha SV line are still made in Canada. I've heard rumors from friends last summer that Arcteryx will be shifting all manufacturing to China in 2008. But I didn't think it would be so soon. Does anybody have the full story on this, before I return my $450 jacket?

There is alot of things wrong with the design of this jacket if you are planning to use it as a thru-hiker/all round use. 1) There is no belay zipper (which also serves as a good vent and allows you to do a poncho-mode for hot wet hikes) 2) The is absolutely NO neck and chin protection since the main zip ends right at the base of the neck. I had the same problem with my Patagonia Super Cell jacket and a few of the recent Patagonia models that went straight to eBay as a result. Wind and Rain get right in there and drip down you chest area. You can wear a neck scarf or heavy duty baclava to remedy this, but you are talking extra weight and perhaps spending more money for what could've been a 3 or 4 inches of extra zipper. 3) That hood looks weak and on the small side. (I think someone mentioned that) 4) In my experiences I don't like fabric material around the cuffs for the velcro catch. It tends to wear off DWR quicker that the other surfaces of your jacket and as a result will soak during a proper downpour giving you heavy, sagging cuffs that get water in your pockets when you put you hands in them. (My TNF Mountain Light gave me that drama). Alot of newer jackets like arcteryx ones remedy this by using rubber material on the velcro cuffs) 5) For $259 you are basically paying for the eVent and the fact that this item is only 11-12 ounces (when dry mind you) off the rack. Myopiion with ultra light shells like the Patagonia Supercell and the Arteryx Alpha SV is that when the temps get below 50 degrees (which is about 70% of the year where I live) and you are outside for a lentgh of time you will end up using the weight saved carrying extra layers and heavier fleece or insulation. I've learned to go with a heavier duty rain shell (16-20 ozs)always and skim on the extra layers which add more weight to your pack. So unless a rain jacket is 25-40 oz weight is not a my buying factor when protection is more important to my overall experience of a good thru hike. Good Luck buddy.

yeah. I was thinking along the same line. BTW, I read somewhere that this is a six layer boot. So that, in addition to that "teflon" inners you speak of, may seem promising in terms of durabiliy.

Just got word of these... On paper they seem like the perfect ice climbing boot replacement for the plastic shell/double boots without loosing thermal protection. I was looking for reviews online but didn't see any. Anyone use these yet? or planning to get them? You can read more about these boots at this website.

LOL! This thread is mad funny! I usually expect to go thru a pair of pants every summer since I work at an outdoor climbing wall and tend to climb everyday. In Summer or warm weather I use Pajama Pants. They are cheap, the most comfortable and are easy to roll up or cut. For cooler weather...Weather/Wind Proof Softshell is good but you'll still replace them often if you climb rough. MAMMUT makes the best ones made specifically for climbing and bouldering. I've been using the Mammut Courmayeur(shown below) overtime for the last 2 years and they still look new. For Ice climbing...I tore up two pricey GoreTex XCR & PacLITE pants last year with crampon punctures so I'm gonna use rugged ProShell bibs (Arteryx Alpha SV) this year. At $225 to $400 they are expensive, but light, tough and weatherproof. Stay the hell away from PacLITE or thin XCR (between the ice, your crampons, your picks and your screws your PacLITE/XCR pants will be an easy feast! Also wear gaiters if you have 'em. Last year I didn't and I now understand it to be cheaper to destroy gaiters than pants or much easier to patch up gaiters instead of pants. As for Carhatts & Dickies I never would imagine climbing in them and getting the same flexibility...but if that worked for you before..DO IT! One other note: MAMMUT came out with one of the best products this year. The Deep Pro Shorts. Complete with waterproof chalk pockets and what looks to be waterproof material all over with flex panels and a padded lumbar support. These were made for climbers who freeclimb over sea so when they fall off the rock and into the water, they have instant swim wear that dry quickly and keep chalk dry. But you can use them anyhow you like too bad they are NOT sold in the USA as yet.

Cilogear is a safebet for going light and enviro-friendly, but Dana Design classics AstralPlane line is the best. Plus you can still buy them from brand new with tags to used condition on eBay for anywhere between $60 to $200. Those packs will outlive you and the ride the really big loads comfortably. I have a short-medium torso and found Lowe Alpine to be by far the best designer for people like me who carry big packs. Their classic stuff also last long as well (I roll with some with frequent hikers that still have old school Lowe packs from the 70s...so that lets you know). I have bad experiences with Osprey and The North Face pack to recommend them.

I was online this summer looking to replace my heavy one piece TNF goretex suit with a lighter bib for ice climbing & other snow ventures. I couldn't find any decently priced technical bibs but I did come across this article about gear that was most interesting. For me it basically speaks volumes about the way outdoor gear manufacturing has become mostly a profit making industry for companies and less of a "catering" industry for people like you and me (I think there should be a healthier balance). read on... These are currently the only decent bibs I could find online and they go as low as $425. It sucks that the Prada of the outdoor gear companies, Arcteryx, makes and prices them.