pdk

here are some gorge ice photos for an idea of conditions - compliments of channel 8 news http://www.kgw.com/perl/common/slideshow/sspop.pl?recid=7610&nextimage=4

Don - Thanks for the great advice. We had a fantastic trip: perfect weather, lots of ice, etc., etc. It got a little crowded over the weekend, but that just meant we got up a little earlier. I'll definitely be going back soon. And thanks to the Canucks we met at Oregon Jack on Sunday - we owe you for letting us take the first run up. Hope the rest of your trip went well. Donnie

Thanks Don, I appreciate you humoring me. In exchange, i just picked up your guidebook. I hope some of those royalties end up in your pocket.... Cheers

Anyone have any recent conditions info for Lillooet, or somewhere good to check the weather/conditions there? I'm ignorant, having never been up there before, so thanks. Also, can we do it with the 2 wheel drive car or do we need the 4x4 truck for access to the climbs. thanks for the help. Donnie

Does anyone have any recommendations on good avy courses in the NW? Preferably in the portland area, but I'd drive for something worthwhile.

check my posting in the other string about local conditions... I give a half assed response to your question.

I was up messing around near Strobach Mountain thursday (dec 13). The Watchtower area looks about like it does in the guidebook. I didn't make it up to where the other climbs were located, so I can't comment on conditions except to note that its cold enough for it and there was ice elsewhere. The road is passable to the bushwack if you have 4/AWD. I didn't, so my recon trip got cut a little short. Or long. or whatever....

A few of us were on the north side of hood this weekend. The road is closed, adding 2-3 miles each way. Neither the north face nor the eliot glacier headwall are in. But the bottoms of the lower crevasses are full of snow, making for some good, safe bouldering on the seracs.

The spur is in decent shape, You might have to pick and weave a little to connect the snow, but it looked good from the base.

Yeah, Mt Hood is a death trap, stay away.... whatever. Leutholds, Ried Glacier headwall are usually good that time of year and are fairly moderate. Sandy headwall is a bit more committing as far as distance and objective danger. Cooper Spur can be a nice alternative to the south side, just be careful on the decent.

As of this past weekend, none of the north face routes are in, including the eliot headwall. We need more precip up there first. I didn't take a camera with, so I have no photos, but there are a few significant sections of rock on each gully and very little of anything on the headwall.

thanks for the photos everyone. Keep em coming if you get more. It looks like the routes need some time to shape up.

OOOOO - thanks. Looks like it probably needs a little work before it's in. But we might head up this weekend anyways.

Yeah, i don't remember ever getting up there this early in the season before. But its been colder/wetter than usual. I think the key is to get good conditions while still being able to drive to cloud cap. Because i'm lazy.

Anyone seen what conditions on the north face of hood are like? Either the gullies or the Eliot glacier headwall? Inquiring minds want to know. Mucho thankso Donnie

I'd recommend getting a dremmel or a chainsaw file (i forget which size works perfectly - figure it out) and learning how to sharpen your own screws. Yeah, maybe you'll screw a couple up while learning, but its worth it.

tool dip works just fine on the cobras. I've seen where people took the original rubber off on purpose and dipped them because it made the handle smaller. Been considering doing the same with mine.

I seem to be having trouble getting my regular climbing partners out on a regular basis. Looking for someone/s to get out climbing around PDX a couple times during the week and weekend trips to whereever. Climb solid 10 sport, but looking to do more trad climbing. Can follow 10s on trad, but I need to spend some time leading easier stuff myself. I'd prefer to do more trad than sport at this point and continue working on leading more/harder on gear. Willing to belay on whatever you want to climb for the same. PM me if interested. Donnie

sent you a PM.

After getting to smith and squamish in the last week, i still have another week or more off. If anyone is looking to do anything, perefer driving somewhere out of state, let me know. Alpine, ice, rock, craggin, whatever. In portland. Squamish, Lake Tahoe, Yosemite, Canadian rockies, north cascades, rainier, etc.....

Looks like my trip to Cuba was nixed, so I have a couple free weeks. Looking for someone/s to climb with during that time. Anthing from alpine to cragging, california to canada. Have time, so willing to drive. Live in portland.

they were on tele gear, so i assume so.

To the two guys we ran into that got turned back by weather on the cascadian couloir on Stuart this past weekend, I have your shovel handle if you want it. Found it on the road on the way out. PM me.

Anyone willing to share conditions info for Banks Lake area?

Putting a space blanket on the floor INSIDE your tent will also improve the heat retention of the tent. Works well for really cold winter stuff.