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Tom_Sjolseth

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Posts posted by Tom_Sjolseth

    [TR] Mt Hood - North Face Left Gully 12/9/2011

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Nice TR, Crackman.

     

    We daytripped the right gully from Seattle on Monday.. ice was QUALITY, the whole route was perfect. We running-belayed the first ice step and belayed the second ice step. Everything else we soloed. We downclimbed the Cooper Spur and the whole route took us a little over 11.5 hours round trip. If you can get it without any wind, this is the perfect time to do this route..

    FS: Feathered Friends Icefall Parka - XL, eVent

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I have a black Feathered Friends Icefall Parka with eVent shell (size XL). 800+ & overfill. I bought this jacket new about 9 years ago and used it approximately 10 times (about once per year). The jacket is in excellent condition and has always been stored hanging up in a smoke-free environment. No funky smells & no tears.

     

    I will take photos if interested.

     

    $425 firm.

    Photochromatic Glacier Glasses?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I've got four pairs of photochromic lenses from Julbo.. the Zebras (Julbo Advance, Julbo Race, Julbo Revolution Goggles), and the Camel (Julbo Explorer), and I like them all a lot. They transition slowly (over the course of minutes), but they do transition and it is noticeable. I never have a problem with them being too dark on rock or too bright on snowfields and glaciers. The Camels are polarized cat. 2-4, and the Zebras are not polarized cat. 2-4.. but the Camel lenses are darker than the zebras at all times - still, they have never been so dark that I felt I needed to take them off.

    FS: Dynafit Titan 30.5 (w/ new intuition liners)

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I've got a pair of Dynafit Titans (Mondo 30.5 - same shell size as Mondo 30) with about 15 days on the shells. The shells have never been worked on, are in great shape, and I have two new buckles that I will throw in.

     

    The liners are Intuition Pro-Tour, and they are brand new with tags (US 12). I also have the original TF-X liners that have been baked once.

     

    $350 shipped.

     

    I will take photos if interested.

     

    tsjolseth@gmail.com

    Washington's Most Difficult Peaks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I'm pretty sure Dallas meant hardest summits to reach, not hardest rock climbing by the easiest route. There is zero rock climbing at all on Lincoln Peak and none of the climbing is very technical, but the summit is definitely one of the hardest to reach.

     

    S Hozomeen does have some 5th class on its easiest route and a reasonably complex approach. The routefinding is some of the most difficult of any peak I've been on.

     

    I thought about Chimney Rock and its probably in the top 15, but I think Gunsight is harder (way longer approach, tougher routefinding, dangerous & difficult gully to get up to the climbing route).

     

    Forbidden a harder summit to reach than J-Berg? I disagree. Go make both of them into a daytrip and tell me which day seemed harder.

     

    In fact I've climbed every peak you mention (as well as at least nine of the peaks on the original Kloke list) and, despite being highly subjective, I believe the list is pretty accurate.

    Washington's Most Difficult Peaks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Thanks for your input Scott. I agree, there are several factors in determining the difficulty of a peak. While it's interesting to hear others' opinions on how they'd tweak the list in their view, this post really was meant to identify the peaks on the original Kloke list (and the order).

     

    I agree with your assessment on Lincoln.. scary is the word that comes to my mind the most. We were in a 12' deep avalanche trough for about 2 hours on one attempt with nowhere to escape if stuff started coming down. At one point, we exited the trough briefly to take a break on a rock island. It was then that a sluffalanche came down that, if we were still climbing in the trough, would have swept us all to our deaths. The mountain just doesn't come into virtually safe conditions, ever.

     

    That to me is a difficult summit to reach.

    Washington's Most Difficult Peaks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Blake, isn't the easiest route on Anonymity Tower 5.5? I agree that Burgundy is an outlier in that it has such an easy approach. So you're reasoning that AT has a longer approach and is almost as technically difficult as Burgundy? I could see that. I do think it's hard to omit Burgundy in that it's unique -- it's the only peak I know of in the state that requires 5.8 rock climbing to summit - granted, it's not super sustained, but it is 5.8.

     

    ivan, I concur that J-Berg maybe shouldn't be on the list, because you can climb the E Ridge (or gullies adjacent to it) without doing much more than a move or two of low fifth. It is a rugged and complex and intimidating mountain though, and I know it was pretty special to Dallas, so understand how it could have made the list.

     

    If it were my list, I'd tweak it a bit, swapping Johannesburg for Lemolo, and I would add Assassin Spire to the #1 or #2 spot. I'd probably round out those 9 peaks with Gunsight Peak to make 10.

    Washington's Most Difficult Peaks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    The late Dallas Kloke, a Cascades pioneer, drew up a list of the most difficult summits to climb in Washington by their easiest route. I saw it a few years ago and was intrigued by the list, but have since lost track of it and can no longer find it online.

     

    I believe I have 9 of them figured out, but can't figure out the 10th for sure. Does anyone have a copy of this list?

     

    This is what I was able to recollect (in order of difficulty in my opinion):

     

    1) Middle Index

    2) Lincoln Peak

    3) Nooksack Tower

    4) Inspiration Peak

    5) Hozomeen Mountain (South Peak)

    6) Mt. Fury (West Peak)

    7) Mox Peak (SE Peak)

    8) Johannesburg Mountain

    9) Burgundy Spire

     

    The 10th could be Gunsight, but if anyone knows for sure and has a copy of the list, it would be neat to have it.

     

    Has anyone else climbed all 10 of these peaks?

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