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Posts posted by Tom_Sjolseth
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Your plan is not a bad one, but keep in mind that it will be all uphill from Stehekin on the way back to Rainy Pass.
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Nice work fellas. Wayne and I took a slightly less optimal route up from the North-Middle notch, descending in a rotten gully at first before heading straight up a nasty, loose dihedral. It looks like you guys took the better route.
Agreed this traverse should see more traffic. Glad the rap station was still there for you. When Wayne and I did the traverse we solo'd through that and it was sketchy. When I went up there the second time it was full-on raining at that point and we set up that rap. I was glad to have it!
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We skied Torment 3 years ago via the NW Glacier. You commented on the TR, but probably forgot!
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1016360/TR_Mt_Torment_NW_Glacier_Ski_5
I realize this was 3 years ago, but you might be able to use the photo to get a rough guesstimate of current conditions. It would be a snow climb right now, and I seriously doubt you'd find much rock.
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This is what it looked like on 5/10/11.
I would expect it to be mostly snow, lots of it fluted and soft and melting, and most likely corniced.
Not sure how you can compare conditions on Stuart to conditions on Forbidden, but whatever you think.
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Pretty sure that's the E Face that got skied by E$ and Dan H.
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I remember Lowell asking for help taking over the NWMJ a while ago, that he had a lot on his plate. Maybe this has something to do with that. Loved the NWMJ, hope it's not gone for good.
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Nice to see this quality route getting some traffic lately. Now that you've climbed the Ice Cliff and SGC, you'll have to go back for the NW Face.
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We are fortunate to have this resource. The men and women of HRT who volunteer their time and expertise are highly qualified and dedicated. Despite their importance, they are underfunded. Please consider supporting them!
For those who don't have Facebook.
For $50 you can support them AND have a sweet T-Shirt!
PS.. they do not work solely in Snohomish County. They have been known to perform rescues in the Enchantments and other areas, and they have helped out immensely with the Oso landslide.
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SOLD
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Still available.
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Mt. Hood and Mt. Baker are usually great places to smell sulfur. I would start with Hood first.
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Reduced.
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SOLD
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13cm sold.
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ALL SOLD.
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We spoke before you left the parking lot. I was in the group heading to Carne Mtn. Nice meeting you.
Good thing you guys brought the shoes! We talked about the prospect of not bringing them after some deep poshtholing up to Carne (and beyond). Our conclusion was that it would suck without them.
Nice shots, and nice work getting up Fernow.
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think he will be 90 in november! what a life
91 in January.
Fred is definitely a legend!
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That's awesome! Nice work, Darin.
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Trip: Prusik Peak - Stanley/Burgner
Date: 9/14/2013
Trip Report:
Vern and I climbed this entertaining route yesterday.
To summarize: the flare chimney is hard work, but the rest of the pitches are fun. We teamed up with a party of two coming up the W Ridge and combined our ropes to make double rope rappels back down (thanks Jason and Luke). It was a long day (15 hours), and I wish I brought more food!
Gear Notes:
Doubles to #2, single 3 and 4
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Steph Abegg and I found a wreath apparently associated with the memorial above Perfect Pass towards Challenger. Not having any clue what the wreath was for, we brought it down to Perfect Pass with us where it remains today.
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Thanks Jason, yeah it was a good year with a lot of variation (hikes, ski trips, traverses, climbs). My freedom comes to an end here pretty soon, so I'm trying to get it out of my system.
Anyways, yeah Gato is a very worthy climb! Interesting the whole way and continually steep.
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Thanks guys!
E$, indeed it's been a good year. I'm getting it all out of my system now in preparation for the next two years of school.
Cool that you got out with your Dad too. It's nice to be able to spend time with family in the hills.
There are a few spots I haven't been to yet.. mainly along the border (Middle Peak, Pocket Peak, Ensakwatch). One of these days..
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Trip: Holden to Stehekin Traverse - Bannock and Gunsight (7/21-25, 2013)
Date: 7/21/2013
Trip Report:
Carla S and I just returned from a 5-day high traverse from Holden to Stehekin. From Holden, we camped at Cloudy Pass on day 1. On day 2 we went over Suiattle Pass, then up and over Miner’s Ridge down into the Hanging Gardens at the head of Sulphur Creek to camp above Canyon Lake. Day 3 we dropped to Canyon Lake, climbed Bannock Mountain, and traversed to a camp at Ross Pass. Day 4 brought us to Gunsight Peak which we climbed by its S Face (5.8). Day 5 we dropped back into Agnes Creek and walked back to High Bridge. We carried heavy packs the whole time (mine was 68 pounds without water on day 1 according to the scale on the boat dock). The insects were terrible, but the weather and views were perfect. We had a great trip.
Photos:
Rappelling Off Inspiration Peak - 2 Ropes Needed?
in North Cascades
Posted
Used a single 60. 12 raps. Rap anchors on the W Ridge descent were abundant.