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ols

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Everything posted by ols

  1. Go for West Chimney...it is one of the better d-e-e-ep corner systems on typical Gorge cobblestone rock. And it will give you a good idea of how The Crown area really is. Wear a helmet and expect runout on the first lead. The last portion of the narrow chimney sqeeze is by far the coolest part of this climb, while the Alpenjager summit is quite reasonable. The Zucchini Route itself has a fair bit of semi-detached rock in the mid section below the Zucchini Ledge so be very careful through that section.
  2. Create an ink or pen illustrated image first (or scan a photograph and work above the first layer) into a pixel based program such as Photoshop at 900-1200ppi. Clean it up till it looks sharp. Then pull it into a vector based program such as Illustrator to add the color. By keeping both the vector color file and the original pixel file distinct from each other you can change the colors easily to find the perfect color combinations. Link the 2 files though. When placing it onto your book page place it as a vector graphic file. Another good alternative is to build your entire image in a vector based program such as Illustrator with a locked photo underneath. If you need to see an idea of a finished product to see how this looks let us know.
  3. Prepare the topo in Adobe Photoshop or another pixel based program, then overlay it in Illustrator as a vector based graphics for the color.
  4. Yes...It continues above the ledge that the 1st Jill's belay is on, but is the next crack to the left (the one that you were trying to lead is correct). It is the technical crux of FOF, and is seldom climbed above the ledge. There may only be one pin there these days, after all... the pins were probably placed in the wild days of McGown. Cheers!
  5. Bill, Here is the beta blaster for just ONE of the best routes at the incredible Opal Creek Wall…. Steel and Stone II 5.10 B A2 (or possibly 5.13 if it goes free) Vertical route length is about 220 feet Protection = some pitons, cams & wires The great roof is fabulous, and is the physical crux for certain. If you plan to free climb it, expect to find a total free hanging right knee lock in order to reach up to the next hand hold. Any really good Beacon climber should be able to do that. The spot along this extensive roof where the seam slices right through it is about 12 feet straight out, like the Lithuanian Lip on Liberty Crack, but is also a good quality nail if you bring a few pins. Wayne and Steve know all about this route. The entire Opal Wall is really just one complete piece of cliff of unusually excellent quality rock. There is a digital map to the area detailing the routes but… Oh yes….the Yellow Jacket wasps can be vicious…we never knew just how fast we could run uphill with a fully loaded 40 pound pack until we hit their nest. But they tend to move around from year to year so you may not even encounter them on the way up…. Let us know how well you do on this ONE.
  6. Looks like the crag facing northwest from the ridgecrest along the French Creek divide near Detroit. If it is there is at least one known route on it...mixed. We were heading in last Spring but the mosquitoezzz were as big as horses. Let us know later this Spring when you plan to revisit the place and we would like to join you on the adventure.
  7. Several persons were on Mist Falls today, even though they got thoroughly coated in liguid ice. Ainsworth Left...the lower 2/3 looks ready now. Just inspect with binoculars first. It is definitely cold enough for a cruise. Dodson Icefall seems to be collecting also, but inspect with binoculars first. Gathering Storm on the upper bluffs has part of it formed...perhaps 2/3 but not the very top section. Brave New World...will this connect? Cape Horn...some of it seems in...hard to tell from I-84. Crown Point...way to go!
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