counterfeitfake

The only reason I would ever go UP the Cascadian is to ski down it.

It was snowing down to 3000 feet the last couple of days, did you notice that? I saw fresh snow on Whitehorse and 3 Fingers this morning, and they are much shorter than Stuart. You'll be traveling in snow, so you need to be prepared for that, and it's already the time of year that avalanches may start to pose a threat. Not a lot of people go up Stuart in the winter. It certainly can be done, but it's a whole different ballgame from climbing it in the summer.

I have some SI issues too. Here is a really good thread I bookmarked. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1061771/gonew/1/SI_issues

This is also widely understood to be false. For example: http://www.geir.com/mythbuster.html http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=999032 The rule most people use is, if it looks fine, it is.

Ethics at Smith are so fucking weird.

I've always thought this kind of post was rooted in egotism. Hasn't rained in 2 months. Don't worry, it'll all be washed away in a couple weeks.

Not sure where you're getting the information you're talking about... the pictures in the linked page don't say warm, they say equal chances for above/normal/below temp. They do say below normal precip. The discussion indicates an el nino is likely, but that a strong el nino seems unlikely to develop at this point. http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/long_range/fxus05.html

You know it now, you can't un-know it! Nope, I was just trying to understand your timeline. Oh shit, there it is, another opinion! Talking to non-climbing rangers about climbing stuff just doesn't work very well. But when I went up there a couple months ago, I was told by the non-climbing ranger that anything north of the ridge was Forbidden zone, which in my OPINION (watch out Oleg!) HAS to be the truth. There is no other dividing line.

It only takes one climber pissing on the arch to make it golden.

One nice thing about bivying up there is that you're in the Forbidden zone, for which permits are not in high-demand. I think it's not a good idea to go up there intending to bivy without a permit, and a worse idea to proudly put it on the internet. Did you spend a lot of time at your bivy site waiting for nightfall?

Did you do the legit first pitch? I was up there a couple years ago with a friend who'd climbed P1 of the Waterway and then 2 pitches of GA. We went up and replaced the anchor on the big ledge, which I think would be the bottom of P3 of GA. My friend, fenderfour here on CC, thought that P1 was kind of sketchy looking in it's current state, and might need some bolt replacement. He thought the Waterway was a good means to access the rest of GA. If I remember correctly he thought what he climbed of GA was really good, and the parts above that he didn't do also looked good. I thought he did not use a hammer. You might be able to get some info if you contact him.

Please stop it, people. If you find gear, it is yours, but it's good of you to try to give it back. If you leave gear behind, you can't expect to get it back, but you can ask and hope. It's really not that complicated. There's not much to bicker about. Especially so if you aren't the loser or the finder.

Both are #4s? That's kind of a bummer. But I guess you now definitely do not need to bring your own.

WHY I THINK IT'S BOOTY

Nice work! Seriously??

Borderline is so great! One of my favorites. Was linking into AC easy to figure out?

Good report, nice pics! I skied the SW chutes last Saturday, it was in great shape, no sun-cups. The south spur would ski well too, if that's your bag. We skied down right about noon which was good corn timing, the south spur would warm up faster. Approach on snow was super easy, good boot pack, I did it all in approach shoes with ski poles, no crampons, ymmv.

It really has barely warmed up yet.

I'd like to know more about the NW buttress descent, does anybody have conclusive beta?

Also not that relevant. Come on, we know you have some pictures of dudes sitting on stuff.

Bullshit. I spend hundreds of hours every year instructing beginners. Nobody has ever asked me anything as stupid as "how do I not sit on my cams?" If you lack common sense to this degree, I would advise you that climbing is not a sport you should be involved in.

You move the cams out of the way of your ass. Any child could have answered that, your question was idiotic. Your others have been pretty bad, too. I appreciate the idea that the newbies forum should be spray-free, but you're wasting our time. You said you learned to climb 20 years ago. And you have a baby. You're not going anywhere. Come back when you're serious.

My experience has shown me that if my toes slide to the front of the boot while walking downhill, they do the same while frontpointing on vertical ice. I've lost toenails over both. Having a low-volume foot is a hassle. Shoe "size" is one dimension, and it's usually the only one that we are given by the boot manufacturer. When I try on boots I tell the salesperson I have a really skinny foot, and see what happens. It's taken a lot of trial and error for me to understand what fits and what doesn't.

How can you really be asking so many ridiculous questions? What is your deal.

You mean "That guy who chopped the compressor route"? Tosh is an asshole.