Lithophiliac

Hey, at least they have the right weight (or lack thereof) for it.

While its totally unusable, the fixed gold camalot on air guitar at Vantage always creeps me out. It used to seem pretty casual in that section, but now all I think about is Krops (sp?) fall in 2001.

I've owned a bunch of mammut ropes as well and I have to agree that they hold up very well. They do tend to twist a lot at first. Sterling ropes are the best handling ropes I've ever used - like tying into a silk scarf.

I've really enjoyed the Sterling Marathon pro 10.1 I bought last year. Not too pricey and its held up quite well even after about 500 pitches. They run from $120 + if you shop around a bit.

Weather's looking pretty nice!! Upper 50's and mostly sunny!! A major improvement over the sloppy grey mess we're having in Spokane!!

Kinda busy, but not too bad especially if you can get on stuff harder than 5.11 or climb trad. No where near as bad as later in the year.

Yo Ken, That sounds like a very real possibility. I will know by Wednesday if I'm going it alone or with others. Either way I'm sure that I'll have room for an extra person and you're welcome to come along. My plan is to get to Tri-Cities about 6:00 pm on Friday night and continue on from there. I'll keep you posted as soon as I know more. John

Too funny Mark, I've have also been at Smith the past 5 or 6 presidents day weekends. We must have at least seen each other sometime in that period. How'd you like two years ago, -13 degrees in the morning, but still awesome climbing in the dihedrals. Now that was weather you could really loose your balls in. I'm heading down from Spokane on Friday with an uncertain outlook for partners, so if you have an odd number I'd be interested in linking up. See you down there!!

PM Sent

Yes!! For my fifth year in a row. Just can't seem to stay away. Got the new guidebook last month and I haven't been able to put it down yet. So much cool new stuff to explore. Come on spring!!!

This was filmed at the main wall at Deep Creek near Spokane.

Nice update Rad. I must be getting to old, but there never used to be any bolts on top to rap from that I remember. You always had to walk/rap way off left. Perhaps its the revenge of an old timer (not me). I was plesently suprised to see the chains when I last did it - makes getting down so much nicer.

Yes, DHLA has been soloed... by Gregg Child I think, but don't quote me on that. I know it was back in the late 80's/early 90's but I can't remember by who. I think Smoot talks about it in the old Washington Rock Book. As for DHLA we did it in 6.5 hours and that was moving slow as I was with my new trad leader friend. Definitely take the Lower Town wall approach, not the rail road track one as for Centerfold. If you had head lamps, the decent wouldn't be too bad if it was after dark I don't think. I wouldn't want to have to lead that last 5.9 in the dark however. I do know you could easily bail (rap w/ 2 60 m's) from anywhere but the last two pitches if needed.

I don't know about a secret beach... but you can easily reach a bunch of good beaches by just bailing off the access road to the boat launch on your right (pretty steep but worth it). There was also a really good sandy one downstream from the launch about a 1/4 mile.

BTW, not to hijack the thread but... I had the chance to do Freeway a few years back and that, while much more sustained than either the Grand or DHLA, is another incredible line. Probably my proudest send to date. I must admit that DHLA is an incredible route. I did it about a month ago and am still beaming from the fun. My buddy lead the second pitch of Davis Holland as his first 5.10 trad lead. Talk about starting at the top!!!

Well you already know where I stand. But I have always wanted to do the roman chimneys as well. I thought there was an .11a variation to avoid the .11d? Either way, talking to my friends who have done the entire thing (Cruel shoes to Grand to Roman Chimneys), they shouldn't be missed, you just have to have the gumption to keep going instead of bail off bellygood as I have always done also. Someday....

Porter, you should get on that one asap. It is the most amazing pitch as well as perfectly placed in a sea of incredible granite!! If you try to lay back the whole thing its supposed to be quite rad, I've always whimped and started jamming despite other intentions at the start.

Having done both several times, there is no way that DHLA beats the Grand, especially if you do Apron Strings and Cruel Shoes. Only the second pitch of DHLA even comes close to the Sword or Apron Strings and the Split Pillar pitch can't be beat by any pitch on the West Coast IMHO.

My .02 cents on the situation… I first climbed at the fun forest back in 1989 and loved it. I spent many fun evenings there when I was in school. Sure the routes were scary, but I got the on-sight on two of the routes pictured. The far right "tower" in the first picture had two bolts on it (one midway up the face and one for the belay. It was a scary lead, but good holds always appeared when you started thinking about the big whip. It was a great mental climb. Plus, if you didn't want to lead it, you could climb the back side and TR it. The main face route (second picture) was totally protectable and safe using the natural gear at the time and would be even easier/safer today with all the new stuff out there. It was a great trad lead with classic granite features. Now it has been reduced to a mindless clip feast I'm sure. I feel luckier each day to have started climbing back when the majority of climbers had real ethics and cared for the rock. I fear that real trad climbing won't even exist in a few years at this rate. Please one of you kind locals chop this crap so I don't have to drive over 200 miles to do it. When will the disrespect for established lines end??

I'm not your usual suspect, but I'll be there from Saturday through Tuesday, yea haw!!! Weather looks great for Saturday!!! Driving a black subaru forester and staying at the gasslands. Have a great trip!!!!

WA Gear: 2nd pitch of Davis Holland or Godzilla (1st p.) - Index WA Sport: Pork Sausage - China Bend. OR Gear: Cruel Sister OR Sport: Hienous Cling

I was at Smith last Presidents Day weekend camping at skull hollow with record low temps (-15 F and 20 mph winds ). It was so bad that we couldn't even cook to first night because our water froze in the hour and a half we spent setting up camp (we should have checked into the city center hotel). The nights were EPIC, however with the sun out we had 3 awesome days of climbing even with highs only into the single digits!! I now feel that as long as there is some sun, Smith is climbable in any temperature.

I definitely second the vote for Jihad, although I'm not sure its a true .11a. Theresa's Lingerie was also cool with only a short crux section. Also, While it only has a short crack section at the bottom, Human Sacrifice is still well worth doing.

This is a truely sad event. I too saw Todd at the old vertical club and his FFA of the Salathe and accompanying Climbing magazine article still provides me inspiration. I still have the article and will probably read it tonight, have a beer and a bit of a cry. RIP Todd, you will be missed.

You mean to tell me that I just spent the weekend in depression for nothing!! Don't know whether to laugh or cry. This thread sucks!!