sambataro

Nice work Michael! Impressive.

Wow! I once tried to organize a winter ascent of Redoubt from the Canadian side in 2008, but we didn't get close. Nice work figuring it all out.

Solid work! I second Jason’s comment and re: Scurlock credit and book…agree! Look familiar?

I received these brand new Anasazi Pros as a gift but they are the wrong size. Never used. Sizing is in line with VCS model.$100The Five Ten Anasazi Pro takes the basic Anasazi VCS model and adds some uprated details. First there is a Stealth Mi6 toe patch for extra toe hooking ability indoors and out, the Mi6 rubber is supple enough to not create hot spots on your toe knuckles too. There is also a more breathable tongue and sleeker velcro straps for slight weight savings and better air circulation. The Anasazi Pro also offers a slightly more aggressive and precise fit thanks to a heel which has more tension that the standard Anasazi model.

Pretty zone

Bump. Scarpas price reduced.

TCs sold. Scarpas for sale.

Selling: SOLD: TC Pros size 39, worn less than 6 times. I sized them too big. $110 OBO Scarpa Feroce 39.5, worn 3 or less days. Doesn't work for my feet. $70 OBO PM me.

Awesome TR Jason! Been waiting for this one too. With two big alpine trips, you can chillax and just crag at the LTW the rest of the summer. Love climbing with both these fellas!

Trip: Golden Horn - East Face - F*@$ The Pain Away (FA) Date: 6/27/2015 Trip Report: Eight years ago, I just wrapped up an awesome week of climbing CBR, Girth Pillar, and TRL (aid) with my buddy Kyle and was keen to check out some other areas around Washington Pass. I hiked in the 10 miles along the PCT from Rainy Pass to scramble Golden Horn with Ty, Jaga, and my wife. We had just started dating and she had never climbed or scrambled, so I thought I'd throw her in the fire and see if it worked out - I guess it did! A short report is also up at Alpinist.com: Crumbling Holds and Expanding Cracks: Sambataro and Schilling's New Route on Golden Horn. From the ridgeline, you get a sneak peek of the impressive, unclimbed east face. Around the corner, Gordy Skoog and Jim Walseth did the first ascent of the Northeast Arete (Class III, 5.8) in 1979, with Lowell Skoog leading a KOMO-TV film crew to document the climb a year later. I knew it would involve some choss from my recon and rumors afield, but I’ve been eyeing those photos since we got back from our 5-year stint in Colorado. My partner Jason "Spiceman" and I have spent the last couple winters making the drive to climb ice in Cody, but this would be our first alpine trip together. We started hiking in via Swamp Creek off Highway 20 at 5:00 PM on Friday after work, involving some easy bushwacking and a steep sandy slope to gain the PCT. It required only 3.5 hours and 5 miles to reach camp at Snowy Lakes vs the 10 mile hike along the PCT. We left camp Saturday morning around 4:30am, scrambled up scree from the southwest and dropped down the east side via a snow couloir. Crampons and a tool/axe made the descent straightforward. We traversed to the base of the east face and started climbing at 6:30 am to allow enough time for the 1000-foot face, but this meant we were baking in the sun for over half the climb. Our 5 liters of waters just lasted to the summit. We hit the summit around 5:30pm and opted to stay an extra night in camp to rehydrate and recover. Pitch breakdown -I led the odd pitches, Jason even. We each onsighted our leads and followed clean: 1. 5.7 off snow to large bench, moved belay 2. 5.9 good cracks 3. 5.10+ linked intermittent cracks and finished with a boulder sequence on slopers – good rock 4. 5.10 R good rock led to a 20 foot stretch of kitty litter and poor protection, dubbed “Pitch of Terror”. It reminded me of the “Rite of Passage” pitch on King of Swords of the Diamond and my pitch on McNerthney Pillar of Mt. Waddington where a block fell in my waste. Kudos to Jason for committing to the terrifying expanding cracks and decomposing holds to top out this pitch clean! 5. 5.8 leftward ramp 6. 5.9+ on good rock 7. 5.10 intermittent kitty litter 8. 5.10 crack and bouldery finish 9. 5.8 corner/gulley 10. 5.6 gulley continued 11. 5.6 scramble to summit block First Ascent of East Face, "F*%# the Pain Away," 11 pitches, 5.10+ R. The name is an inside joke from listening to Peaches on our 13-hour road trips to Cody. For a good laugh, check it out on .For the first alpine climb of the season, it was quite the adventure with a strong and equally crazy partner. Topo of our route and the NE Arete climbed in 1979. Photo by Lowell Skoog. Our approach line from the InReach GPS/messenger The approach up the Swamp Creek drainage View of the East Face from the ridgeline at sunrise. Getting stoked! Tower at Sunrise Views from Snowy Lakes of Tower, Hardy, and Golden Horn Approach down the gully Jason at the base, ready to take on the hot sun Me starting up the first pitch with the east face above Jason starting up the second pitch on clean granite Jason following pitch 3, a highlight of the climb and the 10+ crux is shown here, transitioning from a crack around the corner to slopers. Jason heads off into the unknown of Pitch 4 with the soon-to-be-terrifying kitty litter above him Jason following Pitch 5 Me coming up pitch 6, and psyched to get a break from the hot sun Me heading out into the unknown of pitch 7, starting with another band of loose rock and doing his best to hold the rock together and get some pro And last but not least, the summit shot - the classy version! Gear Notes: Double rack to #3 would work well. We also carried #4 and #5 cams (largely unnecessary), knifeblades (but never placed any), and didn't leave any gear or anchors as you descend the standard scramble route. Tool and/or crampons for descent down gully. Approach Notes: Swamp Creek approach. See topo map.

Doug and I did the Sevenmile Creek approach on Friday 4/17/15. We parked the car at the bridge, hiked 30 min to Sevenmile Creek and headed up the slope about a hundred yards west of the creek crossing over FS Rd 35. We headed up about 400-500 ft gain before we found some new-looking flagging that marked the way until you hit a ridgeline. Once you find the flagging, follow it - that helped a bunch. It was steep, about 2K gain in 0.5 miles, but straightforward with no major bushwacking. Snow slowed us down, but we still reached Goat Flat in 3.5 hours from the car. We headed off towards Tin Can Gap, but postholing past our knees in unconsolidated wet snow turned us around. On the way down, the approach was steeper then we remembered and we lost the flagging a couple times. Towards the end, we hiked out near the creek, which is not advised. Overall, Doug said this approach is shorter and preferred compared to Meadow Mt or Tupso Pass. As long as your partners are comfortable off trail and as long as that bridge is out, it appears to be the best way. Due to its steepness, it will never get a ton of traffic and by no means is this Sevenmile Creek rib approach a trail. Approximate path:

Trip: Mt. Constance - North Chute/Terrible Traverse (1A) Date: 1/11/2015 Trip Report: Adding my trip report for our January climb of Mt. Constance, since I couldn't find anything online for a winter climb. Having grown up in Edmonds, the skyline of Mt. Constance across the Puget Sound is embedded in my brain. I especially love the view of its snow-cloaked ridgeline on a crisp winter day, just beckoning to be climbed. My last climb in the Olympics was a winter solo of the South Brother in 2006 so I was long overdue. My longtime friend and climbing partner Kyle "Engine" was in town from Chicago and had 3 days to climb, looking to train for an upcoming AK trip. On our last WA climbing trip together in 2008, we lucked out with a week of perfect summer weather, climbing Colchuck Balanced Rock, Mt. Stuart's Girth Pillar, and Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell (aid). I recruited Laurel "Machine", who is always up for an alpine adventure. Maybe it was the forecast, but we had no other takers. I for one take my alpine suffering medicine in smaller doses these days, preferring clean granite lines at Index, Washington Pass, or the Enchantments. I warned Kyle that favorable winter alpine conditions in the Northwest are a complicated concoction of ingredients, requiring the right timing and proportions to get it right. Sadly for our skiing and snowpack, recent snow was followed by skyrocketing freezing levels and rain up high Sunday January 4th. Avalanches released throughout the Cascades and Olympics, but then settled down as the snow firmed up with freezing level down to 4,000 ft by Saturday January 10th. But we didn't have a clear weather window with light snow forecasted. Regardless, we decided to give Mt. Constance a go on Sunday. The three of us left Seattle at 3:00AM and pulled up to the Dosewallips Road washout around 5:30AM. We started the long 5-mile march down the road, only to accidentally pass the unmarked trailhead in the dark by a mile. I marked the Lake Constance trailhead on my Inreach satellite messenger/GPS, but the tree cover prevented a clear signal. 7 miles later, we started up the actual trail, which was strung with downed trees for nearly a mile. We were sure glad we weren't carrying skis! The old growth giants, house-sized boulders, and silent morning made the area feel like a true Wilderness. We didn't see a spec of snow until the lake at 4,700 ft. It felt more like summer, hopping boulders in the scree. We finally reached more consistent snow at 5,500 ft. While Kyle and Laurel started cruising up the North Chute (1A/Mountaineer Route) in perfect neve snow, I felt my legs burning. Originally thinking a turn around time between 2:00 and 3:00PM, we decided to toss that in the garbage bin, giving the amount of effort it took to get back this far in the winter. Two days would make a more reasonable slot of time for a Constance winter attempt. At the top of the chute, we wandered our way around buttresses and snow gullies in rolling clouds of snow across the "Terrible Traverse". We climbed a short ice step only to realize we started up to the skyline too early. The clock ticked down towards sunset. An incredible mini-corkscrew ridge led to the summit. Nearby mountains and foothills peaked through the clouds and I could even see crevasses on the north side of Crystal Pass between Constance and Warrior Peak, adding a greater sense of remoteness as we climbed the last couple steps to the 7,743 ft tall summit. 4:15PM. After a short stay, we down-traversed back to the notch just before dark. The chute proved easy enough to downclimb backwards, yet slow. The path down was straightforward enough with headlamps. Once back to the road, we started our delirious trudge back to the car, relieving our barking feet and knees at 12:45AM. 20+ miles and 8,000 ft of gain was more then enough for a day trip. We carried a rope and small rack, but they stayed in our packs. While the exposure wasn't negligible, the climbing stayed third class. We did encounter some snow, but we never got rained on. Best of all, the Olympics were silent with very little to no wind on the climb. Gear Notes: One ice tool, helmet, and crampons. Rack and rope carried along for training weight but never left our packs. Approach Notes: Park at the end of Dosewallips Road and hike 5 miles to the trailhead, which is currently unmarked but just across Constance Creek. The main 2002 wash out is about 3.7 miles from the trailhead but a new wash out means you have to hike further now.

The Jeep Conservation Team is the Access Fund's "on-the-road" team of climbing area stewards. They're travelling around the US, 10 months a year, assessing climbing area conservation and stewardship needs, working with locals to address these needs, training best management practices and motivating volunteers. This time around, the Conservation Team (CT) will be in your area, working with the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) and our partners at a variety of local events and Adopt a Crags. Take a look at their busy schedule below, their WA visit kicks off off TOMORROW! Wednesday, August 27: From 5-9pm, the Conservation Team and WCC will be hanging out at Stone Gardens - Bellevue. Come by for games and beer! $5 Day Pass! Thursday, August 28: The CT will be setting up a table and attending the Vertical World Summer Slam event starting at 5pm. This annual Vertical World celebration will make a great addition to the CT tour! Friday, August 29: Starting at 1pm the Seattle Flagship REI store will welcome the CT and be providing them an opportunity to set up their materials in the middle of the store. If you happen to swinging by REI that day, be sure to say hi to Amanda & Mike! Saturday, August 30 @ 9am: The CT will be working with the WCC and Mountains to Sound Greenway Trust to host an Adopt a Crag at the Exit 38 Far Side Crags, with support from the Mountaineers and Pro Guiding Service. Mark the date on your calendar and come improve this Seattle area signature climbing area. More info HERE Thursday, September 4: Swing by the Seattle Bouldering Project (SBP) from 5-9pm and say hi to Mike & Amanda as they share their work at climbing areas across the country, as well what the Access Fund has been up to so far in 2014. Saturday, September 6 @ 9am: Come volunteer with the CT, WCC and Mountaineers as they work alongside the US Forest Service at an Adopt a Crag event out along the Three O'Clock Rock approach trail in Darrington, WA. More info HERE If you have some time, a pair of gloves, a strong back and some stable boots...the CT, WCC, Mountaineers and our other partners could use your help at the Adopt a Crag events! [img:center]http://www.accessfund.org/atf/cf/%7B1F5726D5-6646-4050-AA6E-C275DF6CA8E3%7D/Conservation%20Team_Jeep.jpg[/img]

Nice work fellas. I haven't been on Mt. Pugh for 14 years - makes me want to get back up there!

WCC, AF, and AAC are compiling a response to the recent letter expressing the moratorium on installation of new fixed anchor bolts in NCNP Wilderness (99% of the Park). Also to clarify, the steel fixed anchors removed by NPS were outside of the gully, looker's left. AAC is further looking into the details of the recent accident as well.