spotly

That must have been at the third bolt? Was there too much slack or some other reason you decked? I caught my friend from about that same spot and he didn't come close to decking - no "reeling in" going on either. Just curious.

Nice job. The lost arrow pic is great.

Ha! Actually had a (just one!) beer as we watched the storm roll through. It WAS fun, thanks. Just got off the phone with Lloyd - they opted to bail near the top and got caught by the storm before reaching the pass. I'm thinking he'll be buying a new alarm clock soon

Camped Friday then climbed Saturday early. Clouds looked dark to the east so didn't waste alot of time gawking. Must have gotten off route (what's new) because it seemed much stiffer than 5.3. A fun route, especially the second pitch. Did the big mantle move at the top instead of going left. Bootied a brand new red tricam. Got down as the thunder and lightning started. Met two friends who were heading up the first pitch. They kept going but I think they bailed before we made it back to the saddle. The hail started dumping as we broke camp. Impeccible timing! Fun climbing, good friends and burgers with beer afterwards. Take me to rock now!

Wow - 5!? Which route would that be?

Tragic. Beer cans, cigarette butts, bolt wars, Donny Baker?! Spotly, please tell me that Spokane has just been getting negative press (like Bush? ) here on CC, and that there are tons of cool, non-feuding, non-polluting, tolerant climber out there. Of course...there are 3 of us if you include Donny

I believe that was their original purpose. Mainly for teaching newbies the mechanics of rapping without them having to also worry about lowering over the edge safely. I used them the first time off the top with help from people like Steve and I can say they were very helpful and allowed the instructors to make sure I was hooked up right. Regarding recreational rappers, I'm out there at least 3 days a week and I have seen a huge increase this year. Not sure if that's a terrible thing or not - just a nuisance at this point. There is one group in particular that has been chucking their beer cans and cigarette butts all over the routes - I know who they are because I've met them but haven't seen them since I've noticed their garbabe. Could be possible that someone else reached their limit with them and started whacking bolts - just a guess. If so, good intentions but bad choice IMHO.

I think we saw your light as well (pretty late at night if I recall). I guess we figured we'd take our chances on finding the path rather than scramble the ridge. Seemed like it shoulda been easy enough. Funny that we bivied so close to it I promised to take a friend back to do the route so should go faster and smoother the second time through. If not, I'll have to keep doing it until it does - dang it!

With all due respect... Not the mullet!

Actually I meant a key gate but yer right of course, a fifi would be the ticket. Just a random intra-question - seems if a person was a bit nervous about the fifi for the first time(I was - seemed like not enough of a positive curve), that maybe a biner might feel more secure. Woulda been a pain to move though. Anyway, the fifi didn't slip off so must have been ok - right!?

My partner aided it then sent the aiders down and I did the same on TR. Worked great. Watch the wind on the rap. It was howling through the gap when we came down and had the potential for getting a pretty good spin going. We did it with 14 draws but had to be pretty creative with back-cleaning. It was my only aid but I wonder if I'd have felt better with a key lock biner instead of the fifi?!

In case anyone is interested, I put some pictures and a long TR HERE

Nice job by the way. Looked like you were having fun experimenting with different lines. I believe we should have taken the same way as you did to the notch at LJT - was it 4th that direction? Here's a few shots of you checking out another route up LJT

Well, we made it up and back. Decided to go in through Longs Pass then up to Stuart Pass, summit, descend the CC and back out Longs Pass. What a fantastic climb. The chutes to Long Johns Tower were great - we picked harder lines to make it fun then easier ones as we noticed the time dwindling. I think we must have gotten off route several times because 3 of the 5 pitches were nowhere near 5.4. The pitch to the tower and the last two pitches to the summit had to go 5.8 for us. If the move by the fixed pin near the top isn't 5.8 then.... A bit unexpected for both of us with our limited trad experience. Still, the rock was excellent. We did have to do an unexpected bivy neat the top of the CC (at least we hoped it was the CC) from 1 am to 5 am (like I said, we squandered too much time enjoying the climbing [read off-route]). A miserable night there under piece-o-crap emergency blankets. Our water iced and we had iced fogged hammering at us the whole time. I'll post a report and some pics in a few days but wanted to say thanks for the beta - came in handy.

Great stuff. I think we'll be heading over Longs Pass both ways. I appreciate the replies - thanks tons.

Looks like from Ingalls Lake, there's a trail that crosses the outlet and traverses over to Stuart Pass. From the pass, seems like a straight shot and short descent/traverse over to the base of the 2nd chute. After descending Cascadian Couloir, isn't it just a matter of following the trail along Ingalls Creek back towards Stuart Pass and to Ingalls Lake? I would have thought a camp at Ingalls would make the most sense? The blue route shown is no doubt way off as far as the descent but...is the line back to Ingalls MOL as drawn? Thanks

Nice! I loved that climb as well. Saw one solo climber when we went and he was wishing he'd brought his crampons as well The "harmless" glacier does have a few large crevasses though and they were wide open when we went. The bird is a ptarmigan. Good job.

We're heading up there next week (never been before). I've checked out SP (good stuff). Anyone here got anything they'd like to share that would be useful as far as staying on route? Are the technical sections near the top easy to protect or should we expect some run out stuff? How long would you expect to take RT from Ingalls Lake? Thanks!

We were up there last Saturday (my first time) and shot straight up in search of funner moves. I think I saw the Cat Walk on the way down and it was surprisingly close to the top of the pitch. What a great little climb!

I had my first rap accident last week. Nothing serious but it did send a reminder to me how little one has to fall to do some serious damage. I was rapping over a roof and got too far off to one side of center and for some reason my foot slipped. I loosened the brake so I could get below the sharp edge of the roof before impact but wasn't fast enough and slammed the edge with my elbow. It hurt like hell so I zipped down so as to suffer my pain out of view of my partner He hoolered down to see if I was ok and actually sounded a bit disappointed in not being able to use his rescue skills Never had problems on roofs before - just a chance slip on a vegetable and bam. Anyhoo, much swelling and bruising and bleeding but no real damage. More caution on roofs for me. I just happened to have a backup prissick on and it would have been handy had the collision been much worse.

Even the crap at the bottom was fun....in retrospect. That snow covered slab on the NE face looks even better though. Yes, that is Brian.

Climbed Rock Peak's north ridge on Saturday. Descended via the west ridge. Half a dozenish pitches to 5.7 and lots of simulclimbing over 4th and low 5th terrain. The lower ridge was fractured granite that was ready to slide off and we gave some thought to bailing until we spotted good rock a bit higher up. Great views all the way.

18 feet, five and 3/4 inches. I got charged for 20 though.

Mine seem to be holding up really well after lots of use. The rubber is good and comfort is great. The amount of stretch for a lined shoe was surprising and my feet do seem to sweat a bit more in them than usual. I'd give my particular pair a B- and will be resoling them rather than chucking em when it comes time.

My friend, Carl got the second bolt pretty easily but paused going for the 3rd. We decided top play around with it and turned it to 2 pitches with a belay from the shelf halfway up. That section just below the anchors sucked for me. I made the move ok but it felt pretty thin. I'm a wimp!