David Trippett

Anyone ever had one? I have two very sore ones......I've seen the physio and I'm on anti-inflammitories and ice/hot....but I'd like to hear any stories/tips people have. thanks

I use this one quite a bit, it gives a predictive model for 4 days out.... it's usually pretty good.... http://www.atmos.washington.edu/~ovens/loops/wxloop.cgi?mm5d2_pcp3+///3

Awesome you guys!! What's the postage on all that sending??! :rawk: Great Stoke. BTW the weather is amazing here....if you're a fish

yeah....what's the deal? where's it coming from?...seems like some kinda oscillation.

it's granite....but it's really fine-grained and has alot of pockety-features on the faces made by little gas bubbles and such....it's really solid. ...let's go sometime huh?

Ok Max...no spray was intended, in all honesty.... perhaps no one will accuse me of being overly modest.... and I'm quite aware of where my abilities fit-in in the grand pecking order...but in the context of what gets done around there on a daily basis.... what we did was pretty mundane and the report was made in that spirit, anyway, thanks for the advice!

must have been upgraded? http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoraroya ....Its a bit of sandbag at 5.9, not that i necessarily agree with 10b....

Hahahaha....my wife is Brasilian...she feels the same way about Argentina.... As long as you're considering Seattle....you may as well come to Vancouver....

totaling your car on the approach road

yea...I guess for Australia...it's "close"

thats true carl....but say you have a family/life partner/animal friend?....then maybe you want to stay in one place... I've thought a lot about this Tim.....because my job allows me to locate pretty much where ever I want....Spain/Portugual maybe one of the best, but I've not been there. But it seems like you're in striking distance to so much from there... Alps, Norway etc...but the lack of granite in Europe would get me I think. Bariloche was pretty nice....but it would be kind of a hassle to get to Frey for an afternoon... I think Peter Croft may be on to something with Bishop....close to the Valley, Toulmne, Sierras, Joshua, Needles, Owens, etc..... Australia seems like a good choice as well...Natamuk or Katoomba, but the lack of alpine would be a bummer.

The friction in that modified 8 is so high during a high load as to render it virtually static. The fact that you use dynamic cord to make it is its saving grace, that and that you can adjust the pull direction easily when its not loaded. Another problem is that if the wrong arm fails the whole thing extends. It's a good one to know anyway....I've used it quite a bit.

:anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: alright....jokes over....bring back the sun!!! :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger: :anger:

I think the links I just posted at the bottom of the report can give some beta about the season etc....

TROGDOR!

Trip: Malaysia, Palau Tioman-The Dragons Horns - Waking Dream V 5.10 A2 (Attempt) Date: 6/12/2007 Trip Report: Feburary, 2004-Malaysia, Tioman Island, The Dragons Horns, Waking Dream V 5.10 A2(attempt) Sorry for the VERY retro TR ...but, people have been asking me to and I've been meaning to put together a TR for this place for some time and inspired by a friends recent Malaysian report on the Alpinist site: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-malaysia-kinabalu-barber I decided to write down my experience on the Tioman Island in Malaysia. We didn't manage to do a ton of climbing in the end....but it's a good share, if for nothing else than to have the information out there. Tioman can be reached in a 2 hour boat ride from the coastal town of Mersing on the southeast coast of peninsular Malaysia after a flight in from Singapore. From Mersing a bumpy ride across the seas dividing the Island from the mainland deliver you to a small village where you need to take a slow boat to the southern end of the island to a village called Mukut. Mukut is a clean, organized little village dominated by the minaret of the local mosque. The mayor and some other locals came to greet us when we arrived, as they knew my climbing partner Sharin, who had recently done the 2nd ascent of the route to some national fanfare. We stayed at the home of a local woman and her son, he was apparently autistic, and had a incredible knack for Bonzai, of all things, and gardening... so much so that the mayor had named him village gardner and the whole village was this landscaped masterpiece....really quite remarkable. Directly above us in the jungle rose the Dragons Horns, a formation I had first learned of from a Malaysian I had met during my time in Thailand. There was only one route on the Horns, an aid line that was put up by an expat American and Brit that had seen the Horns whilst living in Singapore, a six hour boat ride from the Island, and your best bet as an arrival airport. After three tries and a lot of jungle warfare, the First Ascentionists managed to put up Waking Dream V 5.9 A2 on the southern face. Probably the most obvious line on the mountain, Waking Dream is mostly climbing on splitter cracks with a few face bits linking features. The rock is relatively young and from a relatively high level in the crust, and has alot of unusual pockets formed by gas bubbles that make for cool face climbing on granite. Upon our arrival, the woman who hosted us went out, caught some fish and made the best fish curry I've ever had. The Malaysians, unlike most of their Southeast Asian neighbours tend to be better stewards of the environment, and it is obvious. The living Coral Reefs on Tioman are some of the best preserved I've seen anywhere on the planet, particularly that close to shore, and the water is the inspiration for sapphire. You can swim out to 3 meters of water and be on the reef....and the fishing is plentiful and easy. At nights we caught cuttlefish from the dock with the local kids. Patrolling sharks and sea-turtles (Ay, matey, sea turtles!) are also abundant near to the shore. The day after our arrival we headed into the jungle to find the approach trail, that since the previous year had been reclaimed by the forest...although less than a kilometer and not particularly steep, it was one of the more unpleasant approaches I've done and had me longing for the ease of travel amongst the slide alder and devils club back home. We arrived at the base of the route and I preceded to lead up the first "pitch" a vine draped nightmare complete with wasps nest....once that was out of the way the route began in earnest and was mostly climbing on clean, well-protected cracks and faces. Two long pitches led us too a large ledge below a roof where we made he first bivy. Here the original route made a rising traverse under and out the roof, but Sharin had put in a bolt ladder as a direct variation to avoid disturbing the nests of rare cliff dwelling birds. The bivy, overlooking the South China Sea is one of the more stunning views I've ever seen....I highly recommend it. The goal was to try and free the route....The next day I freed the bolt laddder on-sight at 5.10. After the bolt ladder pitch there is a hand and 5.11 finger crack that is accessed via a short rivet ladder. I pioneered a variation, but was not strong enough to pull the moves at the time. I think that particular part will go at .11+ and will need a protection bolt to replace the highest rivet (which I'm sure is now dust). The hand and finger crack is one of the cooler pitches i've done anywhere. Unfortunately, that's as high as we got, as Sharin had to return to home the next day for an unexpected engagement. I thought about aid-soloing the route.....but we were low on water already and without a source near the base, ferrying water would be a nightmare. Someday I'll go back, it's a good candidate for an all-free ascent (from what I saw) and there is a lot more possibility for development on the island for the adventurous, not the least of which is Mumbar, a Squamish Chief-sized wall just down the way from the Horns that remains untouched. The East side of the island apparently has big sea cliffs on it as well, and during the right swell the surf can be epic, or so legend has it. A link about the first ascent: http://www.geocities.com/s1nelson2000/dragons_horns.html The AAJ reference is here: http://www.geocities.com/s1nelson2000/aaj_submission.html A link about cragging on Tioman: http://www.climb-asia.com/tioman.aspx'>http://www.climb-asia.com/tioman.aspx The Malaysia guide book can be seen on this site: http://www.climb-asia.com Here's some photos....please contact me if you'd like to know more. Tioman makes a great diversion on the Asian circuit for the adventurous. I believe there is a reference in the 2000 AAJ. South end of Tioman with the Dragons Horns in the distance Sharin and Harif on the slow boat One of the many abandoned resorts on the south end of the island (take note dirt bags!) Mumbar Southern Horn, West Face approaching Mukut village The Mosque and the Horns One of the many pristine waterfalls coming from the highlands Sunset and the Horns The pet monkey of the family where we stayed Another shot of the mosque and the horns At the first Bivy Good morning sunshine! Starting up the bolt ladder On route On route Southern end of Tioman Panorama Gear Notes: Light wall rack, hooks etc... Approach Notes: Boat and Hell-Schwacking

from this discussion at the Taco.... http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=307091&msg=319388#msg319388

Drew, I can't find a reference through searching, do you have any links?

I wasn't so much asking about the accident, more of a general question. But , I'd like to read the article..... I probably carry one maybe like 20% of the time I climb, MAYBE, but when I do I use it quite a bit. I didn't realize that the the cordellette was such a divisive issue....carry on.

Is there a chance here that the usefulness of the cordelette is based, in part, on the style of climbing people focus on?

january was awesome in Frey. ....anyway June has heard the collective grumblings and is rising to occasion starting next week. Game on.

fools....do you realize what we've done? she'll only return, hotter than ever.

post deleted for lameness