earthly

ps. it'll likely be covered with a lot of snow- which is good- but intimidating. climb anyway. the snow cover is no worse than wet gloves, you'll be amazed at how 'not-bad' the snow covered ice is to deal with. it's going home with no vertical ascent that's a little harder on the soul.

i'm sure it's still in. very reliable ice, when we climbed it last (jan 22)- everything else (duffey etc) had rotted out (cept' the every-reliable-rambles-right). since then, we've watched the temps remain the same or colder. if you're on it, the approach- follow the road or die- isn't that bad. add a day to your trip and build a snow cave at the base, then score the only ascents on most that stuff this year....

Hello all- this is a reminder that the BC MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL and SLIDE SHOW is only 10 days away (Feb 9th)- that is ONE WEEK FROM THIS THURSDAY! at the ANZA Club in Vancouver, BC. So get your photos in now, grab your fellow adventurers (buy them a beer too) and get stoked Here's the evening's lineup so far.... * Raffles and an update by the CASBC... up for grabs are an awesome Arc'teryx Pack, a men's and women's Blurr training top and a sweet Blurr Evilution Pack, and some unbelievably cool stuff from MEC * Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival- sneak preview presentation, select film shorts * YOUR Slideshow and videos from BC and WORLDWIDE covering climbing, kayaking, base jumping, trekking and more... from Australia to Greenland, South Georgia Island to Joshua Tree, Redrocks to Nepal, the Cascade and Coast Ranges, UK to the Rockies, 'aplenty from our very own backyard, and many others * Short talks include recent exploits by Don Serl, about ice and a special presentation on the North Face of Main Street by Scott Close, some 'o the dinosaur days on local rock by Anders Ourum, and a few more quick intros by other brave souls... (have a spiel you'd like to give along with your photos?) * A special on John Scurlock's photography into/around the rugged Cascades * LIFE IN A BOX live music from one of Vancouver's own * ...... amid which we're giving away NUMEROUS outdoor-schwag door prizes (which are really, really cool, and generous from MEC) * and drinks, of course all for a mere $10- or even cheaper at $8 if you include anything from your own outdoor collection- from one photo to hundreds- but submit them NO LATER than Feb 6th Doors open at 6:30p, we'll be rolling by 7... February 9th.... ANZA club.... see you there! submit digital photos: on a CD at our ticket outlets, or, by email to address on poster submit slides: contact to arrange transfer/care ticket locations: get them early @ Sports Junkies, Cliffhanger Climbing Gym, The Edge Climbing Centre, or at the door (will-call OK) *Thank you to those on list who have already submitted- your shots are phenomenal- we are honored to assemble such a great collection of adventures and photography! *

wet? aw, c'mon dru, wringing out my draws only filled a nalgene...

~3 1/2 hours, 1/2 hour to switchback up the steeps to the base; the snow formed a pretty cohesive body except high on southeast-facing slopes where a discontinuous crusty laminae existed 4-5" below the surface. the upper pitch of WI5 continually shed little sluffs and flurries down our backs but was manageable... no sight of slides elsewhere in the valley but we couldn't see much beyond the swiss wall. the ski off the talus cone was excellent.

<ski trail> two weekends ago left a wandering trail through the briar not having been in there before- it filled in with snow anyway... this time we cut a direct line to the wall

Right on, Don- bet it felt good to get the tools wet. Three cheers for the most dependable ice in the Duffey valley!

Climb: North Joffre Creek-Schniedelwurtz Date of Climb: 1/22/2006 Trip Report: There's ice in them thar' hills... Simon and I (Scott) woke early, broke trail up into North Joffre Creek and had a great time on a good long route. the ice was a bit aerated but seems like most routes should last a few weeks at least. here's a pic of the swiss wall- and a pic below of aldergroove (far off- but looks even better than the swiss wall, ie. 'in' and chubby)- my partner in climb and our support staff- wish we had more time to do the other nice lines too (B & E looked stellar) here's our route (schiedelwurtz)- looking down after soloing pitch 1 (below) we roped up for the second and here's a couple shots from the top, after diagonal-lashing two alders for an anchor (yikes) because the ice up there turned to snow and froth (double yikes)- quite a good trip. long trip for a day, though there's a trail now for anyone else interested and should shave a few hours to allow an extra route or two. (ps. any of you not on the ball yet should really hit up the BC Mountain Festival & Slide Show comin' up in a few weeks....) Gear Notes: small nuts for a short mixed section, big nuts to trust the runouts; assorted screw lengths; double-ropes make the raps swift Approach Notes: new trail; park at trailhead, maybe camp night before or plan two nights up in valley

Just keeping the post current, some great shots from all over the world have been coming in. Thanks to all of you, safe adventures-

.....or climb bridalveil falls with the bluebird and hummingbird tubular ice tool hammer/axe set. oh wait. guess 'ol lowe already did that...

have to give the big verify for all route info stated herein. a few of us went on the hunt, ended up scoring some nice lines, again, in the ever-dependable-rambles. we also broke trail into north joffre, which had abundant ice. take peeps.

Attached is the final flyer- we've attracted a few more sponsors- Blurr, Sports Junkies, etc.

It may also be as simple as lacking interest. New generations seem to have a far less durable, persisting tenacity to stick with anything once it becomes too difficult; this is of course a generalization and perhaps best only applied to the fad seekers (of which the adventure sports are choked). As a result, how about the possiblity of mountaineering/climbing as no longer 1) a way to impress women 2) too much of 'yesterday's news'. As a kid, my old man and i were the only ones in our town who did any climbing. Then, through college, a burst of interested climbers appeared, for about five years, then stopped doing much or moved on to other sports. Many of them stopped doing simple camping. Climbing seemed to cycle through a dark, if-you're-not-the-first-ascentionist-then-who-the-heck-do-you-think-you-are? The accompanying rise in base jumping or kiteskiing, etc, might be corellative, and I think- in addition to what everyone else has said- it's a response to the new generation's- our- attitudes and character.

specifically: http://www.ringo.com/share.html?photoId=51720228&id=jwjp96Zba.a0 http://www.ringo.com/share.html?photoId=51720491&id=jwjp96Zba.a0 http://www.ringo.com/share.html?photoId=51721231&id=jwjp96Zba.a0

for all you spouting difficulty with long routes redrocks in winter, check out luisa giles a couple of weeks ago http://www.ringo.com/share.html?id=jwjp96Zba.a0 i believe epinephrine and frogland (5.7) were both styled. take a touque- ps.- treknclime, some of the routes near the mouths in the northern canyons get some decent sun in the winter. can't recall the names, but some great splitter cracks just opposite the valley from the necromancer wall.

though i haven't tried it myself (for fineley creek), i usually use topozone.com to get the best maps available. if you know the approximate area (give or take 10 kilometers) you can zero in on it there, plus have an accurate map as well, that includes more detailed drainage info and access options. seems like most guide book authors- saying this will probably get me spammed, harassed, kicked in the nuts- have an inability to design useful maps. I guess it's just the geologist/scientist in me- but a good map can provide a lot more than just route location if it's done right, in addition to avoiding time waste for route finding. how many times have we all read the description "turn right on the light climber's trail about 1-2 km after a left bend by a tree". i'd also suggest calling Trail Head or REI in Missoula, or their local UofM climbing club.

BC Mountain Festival and Slide Show! Viewer supported- everyone submits photos from your own adventures, then get loud and rowdy and see them all on the big screen, 7pm February 9th @ the Anza Club, Vancouver. There will also be live music before and after by Life in a Box, a nod to the Climber's Access Society, and many outdoor-schwag door prizes provided by MEC. And, of course, drinks are available too. Tickets are only $8 with photo submissions- digital can be dropped off at the Edge or Cliffhanger Climbing Gyms in Vancouver or emailed to bestofbc@gmail.com. Slides OK (will arrange pickup and return). You may also email above address and a ticket will be held under your name at the front door. Come groove with other roots in the mountains community!

BC Mountain Festival and Slide Show! Viewer supported- everyone submits their photos and we'll all get together and see them on the big screen, 7pm February 9th @ the Anza Club, Vancouver. Live music before and after by Life in a Box, a nod to the Climber's Access Society, and door prizes provided by MEC. Tickets are only $8 with photo submissions- digital can be dropped off at the Edge or Cliffhanger Climbing Gyms in Vancouver or emailed to bestofbc@gmail.com. Slides OK too (will arrange pickup and return). If unable to get a ticket from either location, email above address and one will be held under your name at the front door. Come have a good time with the roots in the mountains community!

trogdor- the post is probably too late for your trip, but.... free rides (or rides for beer) can be had if you contact the local climbing shops in Bozeman the day before you'd like to go up, there's enough of a climbing community to support people who don't have vehicles, even in pairs. the shops also have books of names, numbers, etc, for stuff like that. cheers, good luck. ... and for those of you who think the wy/mt weather is too warm, you're off, they're having a banner year.

way to get out there, jesse- it took me a couple days to flick a proper pick while on the lead in the lilloet country too. managed to finally get that groovy rythym on the last 20m of vertical this weekend. and about your luck losing partners into the cold liquid... nobody fell into the stream this time?

the two are hard to compare to eachother as they are both great (ie a tom waits vs bob dylan), and both are destinations. hyalite is cool as it inspired Alex Lowe, and lies in a greater region that includes cooke city and beehive basin and the beartooths (where the ice monsters live), and might even be a little warmer.... the area is made for play (besides, bozeman is chock with beautiful outdoor girls). it provides the ability to click individual waterfalls into the double digits in one day, most are easy to get to. Each climb lies in a surreal landscape peppered with a huge variety of mixed, non, and kick-your-ass water ice, and dramatic views. can you say Winter Dance?

paul and ian- two friends and i are planning on a week long trip there in the beginning of the year (jan 1st-ish to Jan 7th-ish), and could use a forth person to round out our climbing parties- (we could also use a place to party...). keep in touch if interested.

no doubt. steddy and I found it difficult on the face, too. nothing beats a passing train for stabilizing the self on those microedges. anyone know of bolts on the upper face for the mixed/ice line?

can we talk about ICE now? let's spray somewhere else! uh... any of us going to hyalite sometime soon? we should!

good eye dru. went to find de pencier bluffs yesterday. didn't go that far in the end (great powder close by), but saw quite a few smaller meter-scale flows over other bluffs as we were skiing past (and over).