kevbone

Have I mentioned that I met David Lee Roth climbing at Joshua Tree. Was he climbing? Or just hanging out? How long ago?

Are the bolts on slab routes not the substance of the means? Even on friction pitches where the only bolts, and the only protection, come in the form of a bolted anchor (rather difficult to get any "rarer") - I don't see how one can argue that the bolts don't facilitate the climb in a way that no other means of protection could. I don't think that Online, for example, would have ever seen an ascent, much less regular traffic without the protection afforded by bolts. I'm not aware of too many people that would consider the route a sport-route, either. So here we have a bolted route, that is not a sport-route, for which bolts provided the substance of the means. Time for a new ethical criterion, methinks. This makes me question how much climbing you've really done. If you're climbing slab between bolts placed at large intervals, and if you're also climbing close to your limit, the bolts won't provide the substance of the means. They will simply catch you and hopefully prevent injuries greater than a sprained ankle. You won't be able to yard up on the bolt by your hip so that you can then clip the bolt by your shoulder, followed by special little mime sequences while your buddies yell "Send it!" as you comb your hair. You'll actually have to climb the rock, and because the bolts are spaced greatly, you'd probably better be in control. So now routes in which the bolts "will simply catch you and hopefully prevent injuries greater than a sprained ankle" and so as long as the bolts aren't close enough together to aid from one to the next, the bolts are no longer provide "the subtstance of the means." This includes the majority of sport routes. Thanks for clarifying. Oh man Pope......getting worked over eh?

Not really sure how to respond?

That dude should be on the top 1000 greatest but has no place on the top 100. IMO.

Wow....good for you! See, Miles sleeps through the night but wakes up to nurse about 6 to 8 times. He does not wake up enought to want to play......he just kind of fusses about until a boob or bottle gets placed in his mouth. The quicker that happenes the quicker he goes back to sleep.

Hey Forrest Gump, Jr. You appently understand NOTHING! Even I believe that bolts have a place, but they should be EXTREMELY RARE, not the substance of the means which is the way of sport-climbing. Sit down and think once in a while instead of riding on the coat-tails of someone else's weak attempt at derision. Did your comment above make you feel good? Uh....yeah! I felt all warm and fuzzy inside.

Wow......Pope.....that was a bitch slap if I ever saw one. Getting crushed at your own game.....wow!

Bottom as in bottom of route or from the car?

Pope....I think you have been had! Might as well pack up!

So is REI and Microsoft. So is the "Lusty Lady"

So....singing bad......murder good..??????

Pope. Sounds like you are bitching about bolting when you have done it yourself. I have done the same although different! I put up climb that required bolts……13 clips in all except one section with one piece of gear. I have taken shit for this from the sporto’s……and some hard trad guys as well, who state why do I have to take one piece of gear on a sport climb? My reply…..I just did not have the heart to bolt such obvious gear. If you don’t like it….go climb something else. Oh well. It goes both ways.

Boy becomes wizard and finally gets laid. The end!

This is old news. Most who have climbed it feel the route's single bolt is appropriately placed in a spot where reasonable protection is not available. Without it, you'd have to do the crux and face a big, swinging fall back into a shallow dihedral, or maybe hit a ledge. If bomber gear existed at the crux, there would have been no bolt. The crux is gymnastically much harder than the rest of the route, which means a climber could easily reach the crux and then find himself way over his head. The guidebook incorrectly credits a handful of people for this climb when it was mostly the vision and effort of Scotty Hopkins. The bolt hole was drilled on the lead, but our 3/8" Fixe bolt somehow didn't fit the hole. We then borrowed a rotohammer from Jim Phillips and put in a 1/2" bolt at the crux. Scotty, Jason Mikos and I thought it was about 5.9+, but it went in the book as 5.10b. Feck and others have taunted that if I were a "real bad-ass", I wouldn't have placed a bolt. May I comment that: (1) I'm not nor have I ever claimed to be a "real bad-ass". (2) I could free solo the route if it would make you happy (but I probably won't because I'm a daddy). (3) I'm not an anti-bolt Nazi. Bolts have a place in climbing. ...so let me get this straight...you placed that bolt to protect someone who might arrive at that crux unprepared? Isn't this akin to "protecting" the masses, only slightly ever so slightly less? It sure would be nice if you were consistent (besides the consistently annoying via ferrata cum fratboy-tool photo that crops up incessently) in your logic...cuz right now, i'm having a hard time seeing how you aren't sinking in your quicksand logic... Talk about the whipping boy! Nice one Ru!

He is guaranteed to blow your mind.

Who cares what the CUSTOMER sounded like? Isn’t the customer always right? The company screwed up and did not follow through with fixing the problem. This person has ever right in the world to bash this company. If the company runs there business like this…..then they deserve to be bad mouthed. If the mgr stated he would refund the money…..then he needs to refund the money. If he has not done so and said he would. Report him and his company to the Better Business Bureau.

Have fun everyone......I will be changing diapers.

Dru lives in a socialist bunghole? Does it smell bad?

Who is this person.....I have heard her name but do not know why she is famous?

I watched the first Harry Ptter movie when is came out and thought, what a great movie.....if I was 12!

Blah....blah!

What a great outing! Thanks so much for sharing. Great pics!

Ah.....Joshua Tree......my all time favorite place to just be!

This is a very popular route in J tree......there is no way this route was put up on rapel. This was put up on lead.

I read alot! Just not childrens books. OK, I'll bite. What's the last book you read Kevbone? Right now I am fininshing up a Louie Lamore short story book. Gotta love them westerns.