kevbone

If I have the story right. It was chopped because of ego......has it seen an accent sans bolts? time for a history lesson. legend has it that 'the phantom' didn't like that a rap bolted route was put up ( or down ) off land of the little people. nathan went back up and bolted it on lead using gear and bolts and it was chopped again. even jim o wanted it to stay or at least that's what he told me. only the first bolt is missing though. Like I said.....chopped for ego. The phantom did not want a sport route leaving "his" ledge. Now that the phantom is gone the route needs to be reinstated for all to enjoy. IMO.

This is the climb in question. This is our flyer for the fund raiser we just had. Pink chalk shown in the picture. Come on down and give it a go....see if you can onsight it Rudy....

Missesota has weed?

They need to disband the Department of Homeland Security all together, then get rid of the Patriot act.....

Arent we all

That all you got? Thanks for the uplifting commentary.

Where do you get that from? I do not think my view on “wasted rock” implies I want everything to be “safe”. There is a difference between spicy and unsafe. IMO. I have always respected spicy climbs. Poorly protected climbs that are unsafe to the point that no one gets on them and they get grown over area waste of rock. That implies one would bolt it in a specific way and take the gear out of the climb. I did not view it that way. I bolted it “around” the gear placement. And it’s not that black and white. Every climb is different. This climb was bolted by clipping holds and possible ledges to hit and a bunch of different variables. What you are implying above might work at Smith were the wall is vertical with no ledges….but not at the zone.

Please see the quote above. If someone thinks its just a sport route in an area with NO GUIDE BOOK (until now) I cant help them….especially since the entire area is notorious for being a mixed climbing area. Climb at your own risk……before there was a guide book some people complained because they did exactly what you described….saw some bolts and “assumed” it was a sport climb…..that is there fault….not the developers fault. When you leave the ground in an area that has no guide book….it might be in your best interest to bring up a few pieces of gear. You also have choices when you get you the last bolt and did not bring a rack…..go for it….or lower off and get a rack. You make the choice. Like I said…..climb at your own risk. I disagree. Every climb is different. The climb I am referring too had one absolutely beautify crack in it. A perfect green .75 camalot BOMBER! The crack happens to be right where you would put a bolt. And like I said …..you can see it from the ground. I talked about this with other climbers and developers. I/We could not justify blatantly bolting a crack. And when I say “a waste of rock” for what ever reason…..and someone tells me……”if you don’t like it, go climb something else”……well right back at ya, if you don’t like it, go climb something else. Just so you know the guide description for this climb states “gear placement is between 3rd and 4th bolts”, pretty well laid out. I did. yes No I would not.

Spray

Jesus christ guys.....why you got to be so black and white? I put a route up with all bolts with one gear placement. It would have been stupid to place a bolt within inches of a perfect crack that you can see from the ground. Come on down and give it a go.......

Fuck yarding on them. Lets just replace them. Have you ever looked at it.......it will be a bold lead even if they are new bolts.

Ivan.....I am serious about replacing all the bolts on that sporto line up to tree ledge.

If you have never climbed at Beacon....how do you know Index is a million times better?

okay kev, here's one for you - can we replace all the bolts on the various funky corner variations? that one right off the start of the slab pitch looks really cool, but those home-made hangers look hella-ghetto! I am with ya....and yes we can replace them all. it might even need to be retroed.

Thats great guys.....but can we get back to more important issues like drama at beacon.....who is bolting the corner this weekend?

If I have the story right. It was chopped because of ego......has it seen an accent sans bolts? kevin, i was trying to place the name of the guy who bolted it. that's all. I am spacing his name. It was not Sowerby. I asked him about it. He just climbed it…..he was not involved with the drama. I think Ken chopped it because he did not want “his ledge” to have a route leaving it……especially a sport route.

If I have the story right. It was chopped because of ego......has it seen an accent sans bolts?

It was retroed....then chopped and now now one climbs is. A waste.

I hate to say it....but that route needs to get retroed. Talk about a waste of rock.....

Cant please everyone. If you dont like it....dont climb there.

Is there an age limit to bitterness?

.

Hey G Spotter....you wanna go climbin some time?

Why does it matter? And what stuff would you be referring too? Why do you care whether I can appreciate it? Its just the internet dude…..let it go….. JH….you gonna take that? Why would you think I would place bolts at Beacon? Sounds like a personal problem. You see it as a bad think (that tells me you are old school and out of touch).

You sure?