sitandbefit

A few years ago, I did a trip from Lander to Green River Lakes. We started at Worthen Meadows on the East side. It was a great way to approach the Cirque. Our trip was right at 100 miles and we did it in 5.5 days. We were pretty light and were hauling ass. It was the best backpacking trip I've ever been on. Trying to carry any climbing gear on that trip would have made it too much though. If you want to include some climbing, I think you could do a really cool trip from Worthen and ending at Scab Creek. This trip would let you climb in the Cirque and then fish all the great water on the west side north of Big Sandy (I left Wyoming so I can divulge some of the secrets now without fear of losing my driver's license.) If you only have one car, things could get hairy on trying to get back to your car. You could also do the trip as a loop from Big Sandy trailhead. I always thought that going up and over into the cirque at Jackass pass - climb some - and then continue West til you can go North up and over to Valentine Lake and down to Skull lake. Then you can fish Marm's lake, Dad's lake, mirror lake and all the water in between. Straight shot back to your car at Big Sandy then. I haven't really thought about mileage, but that loop would certainly feel like 40-50 miles. I've spent more time in the Winds than any other range in my life. If you want to bounce some ideas or pick my brain, hit me up. Matt

Here's some thread drift, but Keenan's post made me laugh and reminded me of this hilarious email I got from some friends who were living in a van in NZ and climbing. I had emailed them an article about some whales who beached themselves in NZ. I accused them of being so gross that whales were killing themselves. I got this in response (Damn this makes me miss Mike. RIP buddy): Sorry about the Whales. If you miss our smell so bad, I could express mail you some socks, or perhaps one of my two pairs of boxers. Just let me know so that I can give them a good wear before they are sent. We are in Wanaka waiting for a good streatch of weather so that we can climb Aspiring. I'm super stoked and terrified @ the same time. When we were discussing our emergency bivy plan a dispute arrose, that a third party deeds to settle. Because of your extensive education and obvious mastery of all things random, we have chosen you as our counselor. Two guys in one bivy. Ass to Ass, spoon, or dick to dick. your prompt response will be greatly appreciated Later, mike

I have the Osprey Aether 90. I used the googles and see that it is now sold as an Aether 85 with some different looking features. I think it is a great pack. I got it for guiding 10 day backpacking trips in the Wind Rivers and it was ideal. I also use it when I go backpacking with my wife and want to make the trip cushy and fun. I love lightweight backpacking. I have done lots of long trips with the first gen Gregory z-pack. However, I also like to sometimes take big trips into way-back mountains and stay for a while. Sometimes I want to climb routes back there that will require ice tools, ice rack, rock rack, and ropes. I can't fit that stuff in a z-pack, so I need a pack that I can suffer with. The Aether is the suffer pack. If you can get one of the old Dana packs, they are great suffer packs too.

I've been thinking about this topic a lot over the last few months, specifically in relation to ice climbing. I have read this topic with interest, but also with some surprise about what I see as some pretty cavalier attitudes. In the last few months I've tried to read every study I can about the actual, quantifiable risk of ice climbing. While I see the statistics - i.e. the meta study cited by tvashtarkatena - I can't square them with my own experiences. I am willing to accept that my own experience is only anecdotal, but then I see other people on the board, g-spotter and others, who have a similar experience with fatalities. Why is it that so many of us have personal experience that is several standard deviations away from the mean? Is it that a huge number of casual participants exist that skew the overall picture? I have a hard time believing this to be the case, because then we would all have to be part of some elite section of climbers whose experience is unique. I know for sure that I am nothing special. I imagine that even within the confines of the NFL, very few players have a list of teammates and friends who died playing football. If football players were regularly on TV talking about how even 10% of their teammates had died playing football, there would be a national outcry. Yet climbers cite it all the time - google it - Gadd talks about it, Twight talked about it, et. And it isn't limited to "pro" climbers, we talk about it here. My personal feeling is that the lies we tell ourselves are far, far too prevalent. I would never encourage a single person to give up or limit their climbing because of accepted risk, but I hate to think that people are blindly heading out into the hills with serious misconceptions of what risks they are taking. And worse, has my passion for the outdoors, taught and spread by me, not been sufficiently disclaimed so that others can make clear-eyed choices about what they are doing? Thanks to cc.com for providing this board and to you all for sharing your experiences. Matt Kelly

really good to know! thanks. Still If I go up and do it I'd want to do P4. looks like the best one of the route. It is great, but its a hell of a pumper. p3 is always more fun than expected and the upper stuff is in such a cool location that it is impossible not to like.

Nice job Keenan. FYI on Mean Green - P4 can be bypassed on the right in an ice-filled crack. You just head up hill for a little ways to the right and you'll see the way. I remember it being fairly easy but kind of awkward. Matt

The only reason I can post this is because I traded my Wyoming license plates for Montana ones yesterday. If I would have said anything while I still lived down there, the 18 local climbers would be at the house with pitchforks and torches by midnight. Now I have to refuse to say anything about the Beartooths.

In the Snowies, between Laramie and Saratoga, Wyoming. If you've ever epiced on I-80 between Rawlins and Laramie, Wyoming (elk mountain hell road) then you were just North of this hidden gem of a range. They close the road up there in the winter and it turns into a snowmobiler paradise, but there is a lot of great stuff up there. The wind is insane all winter though.

I still can't comprehend this. I have been best friends with Mark and Mike for all of my adult life. I've known both since we were a little kids. Mike grew up down the street and Mark switched into my elementary school in 5th grade. In my life, odds are that if I was having a grand adventure or a blow-out good time, I could turn my head and one or both of these guys would be standing there. A few years ago I wrote a TR about going to AK with these guys. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/553952/Re_TR_Valdez_Alaska_Numerous_3#Post553952 I could write a book about these two. As it is, I've been driving around Wyoming since Monday night telling stories and crying with friends and family. Everyone loved Mike and Mark and now we have a giant hole in their lives. The Bozeman Chronicle has an article this morning - http://www.bozemandailychronicle.com/news/article_3584ae72-685e-11df-9049-001cc4c03286.html We never spent much time talking about religion because we were having too much fun, but if there is something on the other side - and I believe there is - I'll see you guys there. Everyone I've spoken to since Monday has told me the same thing - it is certain that they were having a great time that day. I don't believe that people ever would want to die climbing, but I know that these guys wouldn't haven't wanted to live without climbing in their lives. They died in pursuit of the best life they knew how to live. The last weekend I spent with Mike and Mark was in March, before they headed to AK to get on Ham and Eggs [Mark hurt his back climbing ice in Banff and Valdez on the drive up and had to come home without flying into the Ruth - Mike styled the climb]. We climbed the Killer Pillar on Saturday and then spent all of Sunday hanging out, riding bikes, barbequeing, and watching Mike show us his sweet pogo-stick skills. A top ten time for sure. Matt

. . . I stay home and try to survive the subsequent shameover. But if you live in Colorado and survive a stupid mistake, odds are that you will go on TV and try to sell your story. This makes me angry: http://abcnews.go.com/video/playerIndex?id=7246904 I apologize if this was already posted, I searched but didn't see it.

You have to go to the properties of the picture to get the URL. edited because I was teaching something I didn't understand myself.

Here's some river crossing pics. Its not as bad as advertised usually. Sometimes you can find a way across on the ice. Otherwise you should take some old tennis shoes, wear them across, hang 'em from a tree, and wear them back across later. I'll see you there this winter. I recommend the hotel next to Bubba's. Here's a little tip - Bubba's has the best breakfast in the state of Wyoming. Matt

Always remember to use free range chickens to get free range eggs when making a delightful sundried tomato and spinach quiche. Yummy!! Matt

Are you talking about how one's emotions are tied in with the position of our lunar-mother?

I know exactly how you feel. New Age is the soundtrack to my life. I follow the scene really closely and have found the new stuff lacking (I need music for self-reflection, not music that distracts). Here is a good article. Today's New Age Music is Crap I have to go now, my turtlenecks are ready at the dry cleaners. Matt

Nordicpunk and I have vast experience using "freedom technique" up easy ice and then to "freedom free" routes in the poorest of style. Matt

I flew to Alaska a few weeks ago with all of my ice gear, a fair amount of rock gear, snowshoes, and a tent. I ended up with a 48 lb duffel bag and a 49 lb duffel bag to check. I then took the frame out of my climbing pack (left it at home, w/ proper packing it was fine, plus the longest approach was only 2 miles). I put all of my heavy clothes and coats, along w/ some misc. slings etc. in the pack. I then wore my mountaineering boots, and had my shoes in the pack. I got through security at both DIA and Anchorage w/o even a second glance.

Now that I think about it, Who can name the First ascensionist on both Tower 1 and the Black Ice Couloir w/o Googling it. Prize --> 1 free night on my couch while climbing at Vedauwoo. (I can't guarantee that you won't wake w/ me watching you)

Alright NP. Goin' out there and gettin' it. If you are so damn good of a skier, can you do a backflip? Just curious. When you get out here this summer we'll have to style Tower 1, and maybe the Black Ice if its not melted out. Matt

One more postscript. We ended up breaking 3 BD picks on the trip. These are the only ones that I have any experience of breaking. I'm rocking the Quarks which I have been using longer and more often then the other guys (1 set of Vipers, and 1 set of Cobras) with no probs whatsoever. I have even disregarded the manufacturers instructions and drytooled a bunch w/o swapping picks. Does anyone else have experience with the BD picks (the lasers) being prone to breaking? Matt ps we also broke a pair of pulsars (the bolt that holds the pick onto the ax) which made for 3 ice tools busted in 1 day.

March was good to us as far as the ice and sunlight was concerned. The sun is weird there. You never really get warmed by it. It just traverses across the horizon all day, never really getting up there. Like Joe Strummer says "You cast a long shadow." We were hooked up by the weather, other than the ripping wind it was really clear. Good for looking at the batshit crazy mountains that are everywhere. It started snowing the day we left and they ended up getting 3 feet, so we snuck out just in time. Thanks for the nice comments. Matt

Climb: Valdez Alaska-Numerous Date of Climb: 3/10/2006 Trip Report: I'm from Wyoming so I refrain from posting about routes unless it is a substantial trip (if anyone wants any Cody, Hyalite, or RMNP info, let me know.) However, this last week I went to Valdez, Alaska. I don't climb hard but I love the trips. This completes my tour of the big ice destinations (North American at least). I will piss everyone off from the get-go and proclaim that Cody is still my favorite. Despite Cody being my true love, Valdez is my new secret girlfriend. The ice is huge, everywhere, and approaches don't even require a pack. Day 1: Mark comes down from Bozeman (to Laramie). Cory and I skip class and we all head toward Denver. After a quick stop at My Brother's Bar (next to REI, and even better, next to the Wilderness Exchange). As a side note I will like to say that if you want to find a cool shop in a city first check out the area immediately surrounding REI. Next we go to my older brother's house to scam a ride to the airport. But first we drink every beer in his fridge. Weight limit at the airport: 100 lbs. My checking weight: 98 lbs (packed sans scale). I used a trick I learned here and wore my boots. A quick flight later we land in Anchorage. My friend, and Wyoming ex-pat, Mike picks us up. First stop, some bar. Next stop, every other bar. Day 2: Wake up hung like a horse. Despite this we motivate and head to Four Fingers, near the Portage Glacier. The drive is mind blowing and the views flush the hungover out. There are little pillars of ice on all the roadcuts. Also there are infinite badass ski lines right off the highway. We get to the climb and do a quick lap that amounts to snow burrowing. Still it’s a good warm-up and allows us to dial in our systems. Then we are back to Anchorage to drink 1 million beers at the Moose’s Tooth. Day 3: Get some breakfast at a place that may or may not be called Genny’s. The description we received that it’s a trucker breakfast place with lots of stuffed animals. Mark is an idiot and pictures beanie-baby type stuffed animals. The really dumb thing is that he admitted it, so we all laughed at his expense. After that we meet up with Cory’s bro Nick and head to Valdez in two cars. I saw a mountain that made me nauseous. Alaska is ridiculous. We stopped and tried to climb Kid Around the Corner at Caribou Creek. Mike, Mark, and I leave Cory and Nick at the car. Nick claims that he knows where to go. He does not. Clusterfuck #1 has begun. Group #1 makes the 5 minute hike to the climb and heads up the first pitch. 30 minutes later we decide that something must be wrong as Nick and Cory are MIA. We go down and spend some time looking for them. They go on walkabout, only to be found 1 hour later. First Pitch of Kid Around the Corner Having blown the daylight we continue to Valdez. I see the biggest mountain I have ever seen. All the earlier troubles are forgotten. Valdez is found and the guys at Anydyr Kayaking let us do some couch jockeying for the night. Thanks to them. Day 4: Get up – eat snickers. Climb Horsetail Falls, and something else visible from the road. Horsetail Falls Seeing Keystone Canyon in the daylight makes me feel dumb for asking about which routes to do. Thanks for not flaming me. Hung Jury with wild wind bells After climbing we move into the dorms. This is awesome and was set up by Cory, who has family in town. It was $35 a night. The downside is that we were repeatedly warned that we are not allowed to drink in the dorms. Upon arriving in the dorms we drink our faces off, in the dorms. Day 5: Go climbing in Bear Creek Canyon. Climb the first pitch of Raincheck. We had broken into two groups. Nick then clusterfucks on the other side of the climb. So we come down. Also, the wind blew 80 miles an hour this day. Sticks, bits of ice, and leaves were flying up from below and passing me. It was weird. Day 6: Go to Hole in the Wall canyon with Mike and Mark. Cory and Nick decided to go climb somewhere else. The hike in here is great, even when you tack on 2 extra miles by having your head up your ass. Heading in We then made an attempt on Dire Straights. This is a beautiful pillar. It was brittle and cold and none of us had brought our brass falls. We failed. Mike on Dire Straights Day 7: Bridalveil Falls. Get there early and freeze our asses off. This is one of the 5 coolest routes I have ever done. On top of that it is a top 10 day for me. Sunny, great climbing, great friends, walkoff. We go to the Prospector Bar to celebrate. Mark meets some girl from Budapest and promptly pawns her off on me. She turns out to be un-fucking-believably boring. Also she will not let me get out of the conversation. I excuse myself to hit the bathroom, flip off Mark, and head for the room. Bridalveil Falls Mike might be special but he made it to the top Day 8: Back to Hole in the Wall to look around. Mike, Mark, and I are smoked so we convince Cory that he can lead Crystal Visions. He did style the first pitch. Nick turns out the be ADD and inexplicably leads up the other side. Mike gets hypothermia belaying him. I follow the pitch and flip shit when I come upon the anchor. Horrible anchor, he may be my friend’s brother but he is still an idiot. Sorry Cor, but fuck him. Nick is belaying from an ATC directly on the anchor, and he is tethered way below it. There is no way he could have caught anything. I silently set a v-thread, throw the ropes and leave. Cory on his first lead - Crystal Visions That night: St. Patty’s party at the Eagle’s Club. We get loaded, dance with old ladies, and then race home on the ice that passes for streets. Good stuff. Mark decides that he can lead Dire Straights. Day 9: I call Mark’s bluff and get him up at 5:30. We stagger into Dire Straights and Mark fails at the same spot. No biggie. We head for Anchorage, climbing Kid Around the Corner on the way. Great climb, many short steps, lots like the lower pitches on Schoolhouse Creek in Cody. Day 10: Mess around all day. Hit the Title Wave bookstore. Then we eat sushi, get drunk, and then get on the plane. Day 11: Back to Laramie. Sleep for many hours straight. Gear Notes: Buy Booze in Anchorage, it's much cheaper. Our take: 4 - 30 packs of Bud Light, 1/2 Gallon of Jim Beam, Fifth of Crown, 2 shitty bottles of wine, some leftover Jager Approach Notes: Everything is right next to the highway. The drive from Anchorage is 305 miles. 100 of which is on sheer ice. Also, one has to be careful not to drive off the road while looking at mountains, ice, etc. Edited to fix pictures Matt

Here's an email my friend received regarding our trip. I'm just adding it so future searchers have somewhere to start. Thanks again for all the help. Matt "Climbing is really good right now and should continue to be could for awhile. It was really warm today but it should cool off again soon. As far as recommended routes go there are a ton of them. I have been climbing here for over ten years and still find routes that are worthy of many a tick list. If limited on time I would climb the big routes in Keystone as the approaches are short. Maybe start out with Simple Twist of Fate,WI5- then Bridal Veil, WI5 and onto Greensteps, WI5. A classic WI4 route is "Hung Jury" the bells are great. If you are into sustained WI4 or easy WI5 Bridal Viel is not to be missed. Greensteps is more sustained but still fat and thick. If the wind is up head to to the side canyons. Bear Creek has Rain Check WI4, Big Brother WI5 as well as some other routes that are worth checking out. Sheep Creek has a good group of WI5 routes that are worth checking out. Hole-In-The Wall canyon has "Second Coming" WI4, Dire Straits WI4, and Cyrstal Visions, WI5. For a harder route check out 'My Three Rats" WI5."

I thought you were going to Banff? Here's what I found by searching: Doing some work for a lazy ass Valdez - 4 days and counting ...

Weather in Valdez Thanks for the links everybody - Hopefully the weather will hold. I'll bring the whole mountain quiver and hope for the best. Hopefully it will go well and I can post a first TR for sitandbefit. Matt