phillygoat

I read in the Sportiva catalog that he wore Tradmasters for 80% of the Nose and Muiras for the rest...

word has it there's a brand new #1 camalot stuck in the first pitch of Thin Air... Not that I know anything about that.

Oh man, I hear you! I got my ass handed to me on that route! Sometimes that inspires me to dig deeper, but in that case... I walked away. Thanks, but no thanks.

Pure Palm (I kid, I kid!)

I remember looking up from the base of the wall and seeing a plethora of enormous, deadly, kitchen table-sized guillotines that reminded me of the saying, "geological time is now." ...but have at it!

OK- Somebody please explain to me what is so terribly taboo about mentioning Beacon on these forums? If all these supposed yahoos are hearing about Beacon online, why did I see a guy anchored to the tree on the Tree ledge, Portland Rock Climbs book in hand(!), shouting 10X to his belayer that he was off belay on Saturday!? The book is ubiquitous! REI, PRG, US Outdoor, etc. Even if you are the quintessential gym climber, you know about "B.R." The way I see it, Joseph has clearly explained the reasons behind the BRSP update. However, those in disagreement have failed, in my opinion, to convince me otherwise. It just seems personal, plain and simple. More that folks don't like 'how' he's going about things, rather than what the end result is. I swear, I'm all ears. It's my personality to look at both sides of an issue. Please tell me and help me see. But this blanket fear of "people" is flawed because I'm one of the newer climbers that head out to Beacon. (Kev, by your very admission, you were thrilled to see E and I on YW Saturday) If something is a secret, you trust people NOT to tell others, but, (as is the case with Ozone) if you just mention to others to "keep it kinda quiet"- LOL, word will spread like wildfire. What happens is: Even if I tell only 'good folks' about a spot, they, in turn tell other 'good folks', etc. Point is- there are not just twenty good folks out there! See the flaw? I mostly lurk on these sites and try to glean info. It's easy to see that people are upset with Joseph, but I'm having a difficult time trying to pin down concise reasons that aren't muddled with hubris and/or frustration. I'm not even saying or expecting that everyone has to get along- I just wanted to pipe in and say that the "keep it a secret" point of view seems archaic, at best. Sincerely, phillip

Somebody forgot to tell Tim Olson. Oh, Kev and I did YW last night in the cool temps and I made it well into the 4th pitch before I gave in and dipped. Great fun! (Oops! I meant to say it was a runout choss pile with rusty bolts!)

French's Dome is located "6.2 miles up the Lolo Pass Road from its junction with U.S. 26 at Zig Zag." Turn right into a dirt pullout and walk 100 yards down a trail until you run smack into an old volcanic plug. Can't miss it. Make sure you have the NW Forest Pass- They have been consistently ticketing vehicles without them. The quote is from Tim Olson's 'Portland Rock Climbs' which has more info. There's a handful of easy, bolt-protected routes there. Have Fun.

bill wrote: " I will add that the results JH is getting is seeing is making some of my origonal reservations of JH's openness and willingness to deal disappear>" Bill, can you rephrase that, please? Sorry if I'm being dense.

Stop with the 'homo' slurs, idiot. Make your point without that shit!

Round 6: GRIDBOLTER vs. HIP BELAYER!!! ding, ding!

Kevbone wrote: "I wanted to put two bolts on a long standing top rope at Broughtons so we could lead it. Well I asked about it on CC.com and the reaction I received was it would not be a good idea. So I did not." Get a crash pad,you big baby! Mr. Bentley is, like, 15' tall!! Didn't you say that Stone Rodeo had some junk hardware on it though?

van Morrison- Astral Weeks

Hey folks! I'll start by laying my cards out on the table: I'm a noob. That said, I've been fascinated from the start by everything climbing related- the history, the movement, different peoples' relationship to it, etc. While I've long been a lurker on these sites I seldom felt qualified to weigh in due to my inexperience/ignorance on the topics being discussed. Well, three and a half years of reading these threads has left me just as confused as ever, but I'd say more sensitive to the dogma that is often used by either side to "prove" its point. (This is an observation of the internet in general, not specifically the above posts) I'm friends with Kevin and aquainted with Joseph and one thing that has stuck out to me in these Beacon threads is the apparent discrepancy between online and in-person behavior. Hell, I was at the party mentioned above and it seems to me that's as perfect a time as any to get into a discussion/debate- alcohol being a wonderful social lubricate! Crimper: Looking foward to meeting you! It seems to me you laid into Kevin pretty good a couple of threads back much in the manner you disagree with Joseph here. However, Kevin said you still climb with him. I guess my question is: How serious is all this stuff? Is this just typical internet fussin' or is there some reason that I'm missing as to the gravity of posting about Beacon? Here's why I thought I'd post: I'm your (Beacon locals) nightmare! Or at least it would seem. I'm the cliche gym bred sporto who couldn't leave well enough alone and had to start plugging gear... All jokes aside, what's the threat? Sure, people like me are going to trickle to Beacon, but for the most part my observations lead me to believe that climbing with gear is growing at a much slower rate than the bouldering/sport/comp scene. I mean, I run into climbers all the time who think it's nutty to lead on gear. Maybe ANY growth at all stings a bit, because I can only imagine having the place all to yourself back in the day. In closing, I think the message boards do have their place. Kevin told me that anytime a bolt is placed anywhere someone will be upset about it. Seems true. But if that's the case- if there are no "laws" and the rules are in flux- than we need a forum to discuss these things. Or at least I need to read them (haha) because I'm usually somewhere in the middle. Thanks for your time, sincerely, phillip

EUREKA! It was the baggage handlers!! (unless, of course, you drove...)

"As far as the BRSP is concerned, all the removed anchors are theirs." Ah, so that explains why you weren't giving away the brand new nuts that were cleaned! I'll admit I was a bit confused about why shiny hanger/double rap ring anchors were in the same pile as the tat. Now I see.

Count me in, but those VHS tapes better be packed up and ready to go when I get there! Phillip

Thievery Corporation- Mirror Conspiracy

Funny thing is: Ask me nicely to donate to the facilities and I'm all for it, but charge $5/ night and I get grumpy... I already pick up any trash I see out there so $5/night is steep for TP, IMO.