phillygoat

Like... two feet above a bolt? whatever stick clip boy Awwww, did you have ANOTHER bad day at work while I was out climbing?

Like... two feet above a bolt?

I KNOW this is somehow tied into the evangelical stations...

Ummmm... I know you are, but what am I

It's 'you're', genius.

That's the way Tim Olson draws it on the topo.

What do you call the 'right hand in the crack, left on the choss' variation?

Huh? Say what you mean. I can't find my rosetta stone and am unable to decipher what exactly you're driving at. I'm not some sleuth. Thanks Mr. Pink.

Hey buddy- Not sure if it's his piece, but I found a Kong/Flex cam hidden behind a flake while I was pokin' around on the right side of FFA. PM me when you find the time- I'd be happy to return it, though I know it's not the top priority right now. best wishes, phillip

Hey folks- Just caught the channel 2 news that said a helicopter lifted an injured, 45-yr old climber from Beacon rock. There were few details besides the climber having head/neck injuries. Anyone know who it is? My thoughts are with him...

Bill- Don't I look relaxed?

I knew what you were talking about. There's a big world out there where many folks have taken to rap-bolting face climbs. In a nutshell, this is sport climbing. You might have heard of it, even if you detest it. Many of these routes were intended to have the first bolt stick-clipped. By participating in an activity that was, by design, developed to minimize risk, it is strange to me to forgo a stick-clip if there is the real threat of breaking something from a fall. Of course, it's always about risk assessment. Apparently, you can't fathom that my approach to climbing differs from area to area. That I might possibly stick-clip a route at Smith AND know how to escape a belay miles deep in a wilderness area? I'm glad you like your crag, and I'm sorry if I offended you or others by my "embarrassing" comment. But you seem to want to paint me into some corner and you've got me wrong. I'm not going to get caught into playing some, "I'm more (fill in the blank) than you!" The embarrassing comment was a response to what I perceived to be inconsistencies regarding fixed pro at Beacon. Then you saw that I mentioned a stick clip in this thread and ran with that, as if you have proof that my opinion doesn't count because I climb at a variety of places, and sometimes (gulp) sport climb. I've never been anything but completely honest about my experience in climbing. Not in anything that's come up during the past Beacon threads. Not to strangers. Not to partners. And certainly not behind the comfort of a computer screen. So yeah, I tend to take it personally when someone I don't know (Andrew?) starts laying into me on the internet. Even though I took the time to respond to your post, I must say that I still don't understand what you're talking about. I'm not arguing about what stick-clipping is or that rapping is dangerous. I'm telling you that there are legions of climbers out there, including myself, that clip bolts AND plug gear on a situational basis. So you can spend your time being pissed off about this, or you can be glad that some of these same folks find value in both experiences and want to keep them separate. phillip

This is a contradiction. And it's even stranger that you're arguing on behalf of an anchor that makes top-roping and rapping easier/safer.

Huh? That gear is bomber. If you've got something to say, then let's hear it.

I was being flippant. (note the use of Ebonics) My point is that: for all of the hubbub over anchors, the single protection bolt that Joseph added then removed, the Dod's tree, etc., this mid-route top-rope anchor is allowed to remain on a beautiful, stellar line in one of the most heavily trafficked areas at Beacon. Doesn't that seem odd to you? phillip

I'd be embarrassed to break my ankle and not climb because I had some weird, illogical aversion to stick-clipping a high bolt on a sport route.

I'd like to start the 'clean-up' by removing the mid-route anchor on Free For Some. This thing is embarrassing, yo! phillip

That sucks, Adam! Personally, I would stick-clip a sport route to Kingdom Come rather than risk decking, but I'm glad to hear you're alright. July is kinda sketchy for tech-y, basalt slappin'/smearin', ya know?! I'm sure you'll get your send. After you're healed I'll give you a tour of the other Portland crags if you're game. Oh- this is Phillip (I just met you last week in the shop- my buddy bought that last rap ring). Heal Up! and take care, phillip

Hey Trundlers- Pat and I did Dod's on Wed. and there was a little comic relief when I was sure that a 70m would get us down to the Reasonable Richard anchor. Pat went first and made it by employing what he called "Cirque de Soleil" moves. Anywho, before the fun and games I led Dastardly Crack for the first time. Immediately below the anchor is a pretty shaky-looking block that moved when I pulled on it a bit. The ground there is mellow enough that pulling on it isn't necessary, but I thought I'd mention it as it is above the main climbing area. Oh, it's probably the size of a toaster oven. (seems these things are always compared to household appliances) phillip

Those aren't wasps! They are wild honey bees that are becoming increasingly rare. The hive was active when I was out there last week. I called the park service about it, and they said they'd check it out, but they are only in the habit of exterminating hazardous wasp/hornet nets. Believe me- I dig the route Bloodline(Beeline!) and want to have it open for climbing, but the more I started looking into it, the more I'd like to see some beekeepers come out and relocate that thing.

Why is trundling so satisfying?!