OlegV

Climb: Rainier-Nisqually Cleaver Date of Climb: 5/15/2006 Trip Report: A friend of mine Rob and myself decided to climb the legendary Nisqually Ice Cliff. The route looked somewhat clear-cut from the picture, but as we later discover in action, many substantial irregularities were not noticeable from the base camp. We left the Paradise at 10 am on Sunday wishing for much colder weather. We cut across the sun-baked Muir snowfield and dug out a nice flat platform at the base of the Cowitz cleaver at 9800 ft. We spent the rest of the day staring at the steep slopes of the Nisqually Ice Fall, and debating whether we’ll be hit by falling ice or rock in the temperatures above freezing. The Nisqually was peaceful for the time being. We left the camp at 3 am in hardly freezing conditions under full moon and low wind. The broad field below the Nisqually Cliffs, as expected, is a war zone evident by a broad trail of fallen ice and rock. Nothing fell when we passed the debris. Leading the first pitch at the lower bergshrund, I heard the sound of falling water and thought “Holly molly, our route is melting away!” Soon our progress was interrupted by a spicy vertical step formed by the bergshrund. The entrance to the lower couloir represents a low-angle enjoyable climbing with lots of opportunities for the leg rest. Although rock fall did happen at the sunrise, and Rob once narrowly escaped a sizable brick, there is plenty of room under the overhanging cliffs of Nisqually Cleaver for the daydreaming. After passing the first band of the ice cliffs without problem, we looked right in the direction of the book-described ice shelf and discovered a jumble of crevasses and bulging cliffs. What looked like a smooth shelf from the ground was an amazing optical illusion. We vote for the upward climbing on the left of the second band of the ice cliffs. Rob leads the second, steep couloir separating the cleaver and the icecliffs. At the same time, I fully enjoy unsafe belay just below the hanging icecliff. We passed the ice cliffs thinking: “That’s the end of the crux. From here, if we cut right, we’ll eventually end up on the broad smooth slope leading to the summit”. Ha! Not at all, crevasses are everywhere, thanks to the mighty river of the Nisqually Icefall. Many times we had to navigate between and across the soft snow bridges of the vomitingly deep and wide crevasses. The never-ending change in horizons and new obstacles was quite enjoyable. Rob once had to lead a frozen hill of ice with a single ice screw! I love alpine climbing for its marginal safety and overoptimistic attitude of people who does it. If you are tired reading my translation, at 13.5K we finally spotted two figures coming down the DC. We quickly found the path and spent the next hour or so in the normal for this stage of climbing, zombie-like state, and started our slog up the DC to the summit. The DC descent was less than enjoyable and frankly boring. Sunburned and pretty tired, we got to our tent in the early afternoon. We looked at the line we just climbed, with the new eyes and agreed that it was amazingly entertaining adventure. Gear Notes: 2 tools 2 pickets 30 m rope 4 ice screws (used once) 10 lb sun screen Approach Notes: Muir

Great job Pochi! I think we talked on Sunday - on Muir snow field. I asked about snow conditions. My friend and I summited via the Nisqually ice cliff on Monday. The TR is coming soon. Oleg

Great TR Roger! Glad you had good time.

Thank you!

Very cool, thanks a bunch! Oleg

Anybody been up the Camp Muir recently? Snowshoes needed? Thanx.

Hey Chad, nice pix great trip! Sounds like the HW is out of shape now? Is it an accurate statement? The rock band looks interesting though. It gets much steeper once you pass the rock band.

Lab instructor: PLUSES: work 9-5 OR 9-3 if you wish flex vocation time no 'on calls' or weekend work all benefits no preasure from boss MINUSES: it is your career's end moderate pay ($45-60) scientists are generally boring if you boss dies or looses money - you are out

Nice pictures. Thanks for the update! Looks like the north side routes are getting in shape?

Only if you go.

Hey Chad, nice shots! This rim probably resembles the conditions on Yocum these days.

Thanks a bunch folks!

Anybody had experience with NOLS? I am thinking sending my son to one of their 1 month expeditions next summer. Not sure what it is going to be, climbing, kayaking, or backpacking. As long as the experience is dramatic and affects him in the positive way. Anybody?

Rojer, I wasn't following on the story of the missing climber. Was he found? What happened?

Any snow condition updates? I wonder if with recent moderate snowfall, consolidation finally began. Hate postholing Thanks

Neoday, I doubt, you'll encounter any ice on LR in 2 weeks. Your'll be postholing most of the ridge, most likely. That may make the progress slow and the exposure to the bad weather greater. Bring plenty of pickets and a shovel. The quazi-winter approach will be a bitch.

Postholing up the Gibs Ledges:

snowball, did you need snowshoes to get to Camp Muir?

Hey boys, has anybody been up the South side in the last few days. Are snowshoes needed up the Palmer and down the IR? Thanx.

Ahh, you are right to the point, Sharpy!!!

any? 1) Oleg V. ...

Thanks, Chad - I just read new NOAA forcast. 36 mph west wind on Friday!!! Sad sad days for us, bro

Has anyone been up there this week? Looks like avi conditions aren't that bad and snowpack settled down. Mainly interested in the South-West and West sides.

Hey Adrian! Glad to hear you're here! Check your PMs!

Feel too much Dostoevsi in my mood? Maybe. Of cause, we have our moments of trust and fun together. What hurts, he can completely destroy this next day.