OlegV

Rest in peace, Nick. You took the best possible death we all wish - by serving your duty to rescue the life of others...

It doesn't look too fun of the route, but is a good training for Yocum! Great effort!

Congrats on your FA of Mt Hood, Vitally and Nastia! Hopefully, it will be added to a new Mt Hood climbing guide. Oleg

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=411172 My first official acquaintance with Mt Hood began when I tried to climb the Sunshine and ended up on a snow part of the headwall. I actually turn around a hundred feet below the summit ridge because of ice (I had a single ice axe). Downclimbing that green line wasn’t fun – I actually nearly fell into lower crevasse. It also felt steeper and scarier than the last time we did it.

Let's discuss if the traverse to the right gulley of the NF is possible. Maybe we should install ladders or fixed ropes to climb over and rappel down the ridge?

Congrats Nastia and Vitali!!! Well done. The textbook dogma that the north routes ofn Mt. Hood require long approaches is now officially broken! The North side can be climbed in a cragging style.

Congrats! Looks pretty sick. Crack climbing is scary.

We had the best team ever! The division of labor was perfect. Zero drama too. I hope people will pay more attention to the EHW in the future. It is an extraordinary mixed route. Nastia did the other variation of the North face only in 4 days after we climbed the headwall - the Raven. My greatest compliments to her!

Well, here is my version of the story… Our trip was a blast by any means. A day before, the old crippled gipsy told us to kick some serious mountain ass and get the Eliot headwall done even if we have to lose a person or two in the process. The stars and the moon were properly aligned, the weather was good, the snow was still white, and our spirits were hopeful and strong. To ensure our glorious victory on the mountain, the Andy-5.11-no-gear-climbing-machine was added to the team, not to mention Nastia’s skills as a steep-ice-runner, which makes her more similar to a spider-woman than to a regular mortal “let’s-go-shopping-honey” flat-lander. I was and am a wise-man, a commander in chief, a cautious critic of the REI equipment, and the inventor of a babushka-style insolation (50 cents) for boringly-designed Scarpa mountaineering boots. We also invented a head-to-toe sleeping style - highly recommend for space saving... Perfect design... The snow conditions were soft, but we were insistently breaking our trail, sometimes plowing through waist deep powder, to the base camp at the toe of the Hog’s Back. The snow castle was erected to protect a high-tech Nastia’s tent from NOAA-promised 20 mile/h winds. Snow shelter Our plan ingeniously designed by Nastia and her climbing friend Dane was to spend a night at the Hog’s back, climb to the summit early morning, down-climb (hike) the Cathedral ridge to the prominent flat spot, traverse the Eliot glacier to the base of the headwall, and go up from there. Summit shot On the Cathedral ridge Suffice to mention, a nightmarish climb through the Pearly Gates, shaky traverse through the (amazingly non-steep) Eliot glacier, and excellent snow conditions at the base of the headwall. Nastia leading WI3, pitch1 Nastia approaching the rockband We are now approaching the crux of our story, which will add our names to the history of local mountaineers. I wonder why people don’t climb this route more often. It reminded me the North face of the Chair peak: the moderate water and alpine ice, good protection, amazing views, multiple rock options, not too long. The rock band is composed off not too bad of the rock. Andy was able to place a couple of solid pieces as he led his lucky pitch through the vomiting narrowness of the “twisted neck” slot. Welcome to a newly re-discovered Eliot crags! Bring your girlfriends, dogs, and unneeded in- laws… Andy leading "The twisted neck" slot Last pitch Thanks for not killing your partners leading rock, Andy. Next time bring ice screws as well… Forgot to mention, we only had a single rope and had to climb the rock band (and ice) in a weird two-followers, full-belay style. Essentially, the two followers, separated by the 10 feet of rope, climb in tandem. The tandem climbing gets tricky from a thermodynamic point to view. It reminds me a ratchet movement of molecular engines, when two objects have to simultaneously overcome the energy barrier imposed by…the gravity in our case. Synchronization is a key. While engaged in a hauling climbing style, we were pretty vocal, I recall. Some people get quiet; some sing primordial “Atass” songs! Atassss – go to the summit!!! What a climb! A couple of individuals at the summit were staring at us as we were coming out of the abyss of the Eliot headwall - not realizing high much more beautiful and interesting the north flanks of the mountain are. Nastia nearing the summit The "Russian-American route" as Nastia reccomended... For higher resolution images go to:

Thank you Jason. I hope my sone is reading this.

Hey Dan, thanks a lot man. I just don't get why some kids are being so blind to real possibilities of this world. Having moved to the US, I expected that my kids will take advantage of opportunities this country has to offer. Instead, I see quite the opposite. They don’t have to stay near the bottom – all it takes is to look up in the sky and think. Oleg

Hey Joe, Moving is great advice. We live in the village and there is no escape from old shit. He will make it, I am sure. Thanks! Oleg

Eric, he is doing well now, just needs to get rid of his old ballast. It is nearly impossible in electronic era..

This place looks great! Thanks, man.

Jim, thanks for your advice - I will tell him to check this place out.

Thanks Joseph for your support! I noticed changes when Alex turned 21 and his friend found jobs and he didn't. I hope things will improve.

Dan, thanks very much for your advice. My son lives in Portland. He started using drugs when he was young and that led to where he is now. Fortunetly, he is very smart and is on the right track now. His bad record, however, is tagging alone. He will make it with our support... Oleg

My son, 21 wrote it. I decided to post this letter because my son ran out of options. We live in a highly egoistic society, but I feel he may get some help from climbers. I think he deserved a real chance. Thank you. Oleg This is a cry for help, not to sound bitchy but its to that point. I stay at this dude's house that has two alcoholic potheads living in it soon to be another it seems. They're good people but they r literally driving me to the point of insanity. They do nothing but drink malt and smoke weed all day and I'm trying to stay off that shit for reasons of parole and personal choice. Ive been legitimately hard job hunting for the past month and it seems to no appeal. The market sucks these days especially for a felon. I feel like I'm the only voice of reason in this household and the others are too drunk and blind to listen. I really need the f... out of here asap so I guess what I'm getting to is that I need all the help I can possibly get finding a job. Ive been living the life of dependency for too long and i need to start anew. Ive been busting my ass in school (and doing really well in it and trying to find a part time job on top of it. I know that it'll be really hard once i get work but life requires the hardships. I realized this too late and now I'm kinda stuck in this shitty position, hopefully not much longer, but god it hard out there. On top of it all a few of my homies just got an apt and I'm still stuck here living in hell, making my insanity double, and making it seem like a lost hope to keep going. But ill keep truckin' until I succeed. Please... if anyone knows anything about ANY possible felony friendly job prospects or opportunities let me know because I really don't know where to look anymore its driving me crazy. I need some real feedback. Thanks for listening whoever read this.

Congrats Nastia!!! You are a the most persistent m-f I've ever known (besides myself I've been up Sunshine a day before your climb and have to admit the slope was in the best possible conditions. Eliot FW looks a little thin.

Nastia, Russians need you there: link

Nastia and Mark. Good job on the PR. Glad you survived. Nastia, maybe you should stop eating the REI crap and stick with a real food? - Salo, hard saliami, eggs and oatmeal. So-called "performance food" makes you puke. Drink Vodka, before, during and after the climb.

stupid

yeee, it sounds like an era of brave mountaneering is over... although it is always nice to meet old friends... let me tell you, this weather took a lot out of us.

It reminds me 80s, when Russians and Canadians were fighting on ice playing hokey. We didn't like those Canadians with no helmets on! They were (and are) good!. Ironically, we now are seeing a Russian-Canadian crew on ice! Congratulations, great TR! I like real mountains in the background. What are they?

A very good friend of mine, Rob Springer is attempting K2 this year. He is a very dedicated climber who I know for many years. What strikes me the most in Rob is his modesty, his dedication to extreme climbing, and independence. I am kindly asking the local climbing community to support Rob’s quest to climb the most dangerous mountain in the world and wish him safe return home. http://newjerseyhills.com/chatham_courier/news/article_b37d2e72-2e46-11e0-86fc-001cc4c03286.html rspringer05@yahoo.com