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OlegV

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Everything posted by OlegV

  1. True, global warming or just a warm fluke in the global weather
  2. The Rainier's Mowich Face is typically done starting at the Mowich Lake via the Ptarmigan Ridge. I came across this 2002 TR from Alpine Dave, who began the climb at the West side road. http://www.alpinedave.com/mt_rainier/mowich/mowich.htm Anyone has experience with this approach/trail conditions in late June - early July?
  3. partners needed

    Looking for alpine partners. I've been out of commission for a year and would like to start with moderate alpine routes this summer. PM if you have interest in developing partnership. Oleg
  4. partners needed

    Hey Eric. That sound like fun - I am still watching climbing videos
  5. partners needed

    What was happening to Bill this year?
  6. partners needed

    I really want to finish Jeff Park Glacier
  7. partners needed

    Bill who?
  8. The road is usually closed till July
  9. The NF in Morning glory
  10. The North Face and the Elliot in full beauty!
  11. I might be traveling to Chamonix in early January. I hope to climb a mixed alpine route in the area. I wonder if the January weather is stable enough to justify my trip. Thanks! Just look at this awesomeness!
  12. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Gerber-Sink 4/17/2016

    Congratulations Mike. Great job!
  13. I will be visiting East Cost during the last week of March. I am wondering if ice climbing in New Hampshire/Adirondack is going to happen that late into the season. I am thinking trying Black Dike in NH and Adirondacks ice. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
  14. Hood on thursday

    looking for a partner for Hood this Thursday. Something more interesting than the Dog's route. The weather window is closing on Friday.
  15. East coast ice - early April???

    Thanks for the info! Late March is a transitional time with not too many options for outside activities.
  16. Strong work, as usual, John!
  17. Hey Chris! How are you doing with your injury? I hope you are completely recovered and ready for some hard shit.
  18. No video was captured - we were in a hurry to get down before it gets dark. We've noticed that the unnamed (?) valley to the right of the Alpental Valley had no clouds whatsoever!!!
  19. Thanks to Ilia and Co. for breaking a trail for us. I still took us 3 hours to swim to the base of the route!
  20. You did a great job fellas! 4 people is a slow train for such a difficult climb. Thanks for breaking a trail for us!!!!!
  21. I am glad Alex led the box gully pitch - there was very little ice and lots of funky unprotected climbing. Great skills!
  22. Trip: Mt Hood - Reid HW Date: 11/29/2015 Trip Report: APE and I climbed the right variation of Reid last Sunday. Conditions were suboptimal, especially at higher elevation. I would highly recommend staring earlier and climbing the entire route at night. The whole thing is a shooting gallery. We got to the IR around 7am, downclimbed to the glacier (good conditions) and started climbing the route in about an hour. The first pitch was stellar - WI2 with some snow powder and good ice screw placement. From a belay point, things got more interesting. Lots of ice debris were coming down right at us through a narrow constriction of the main gulley. Alex made a right call by climbing to the right and over a steep shoulder avoiding falling ice (WI2-3, no pro). Once on the top of the second pitch, we encountered an enormous ice avalanche just 100 feet to the left of us. The entire tower collapsed sending down blocks of ice and snow. Alex made a right decision saving life. From that point on route conditions worsened significantly and climbing became very slow and delicate. We encountered lot of icy crust with snow powder underneath. The top layer was very unstable and usually was detaching as we kicked steps. Most of ice was barely protectable and unconsolidated. We got to the base of ice towers late, wondering if something big is going to fall on our heads. Alex tried to lead straight through the ice, but it was so dangerous and unstable that he had to downclimb back to our questionable belay. I suggested to traverse left just below ice towers (70-80 degree ice and snow). The traverse of angels was a memorable one. It involves a series of downclimbs , short traverses and climbing through some funky ice gullies. The pitch placed me right below the exit spot. I am glad nothing big came down on our heads because of a direct sun we were in. I am not going to mention time because it was getting dark... We were lucky to find a direct downclimb to the other side. There is an obvious line that goes straight down to the base. APE is gearing up: Shooting gallery (exit point for ice avalanche 10 min later after we passed this point): Avoiding the main gulley by climbing the right shoulder: Terrible Traverse: Looking down: Exit:
  23. [TR] Mt Hood - Reid HW 11/29/2015

    Alex is a great partner - calm and confident, leading and following any type of terrains.
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