JosephH

Well, I'd say from an ecological perspective everything you say is true, but I for one will find the route a bit sterile once the tree is gone and it's going is has been greatly accelerated by our traffic and use. The gravel/dirt wouldn't primarily be for mechanically holding it down so much as to replenish soil and mechanically provide some protection for the roots. This would basically be in-fill between the roots and not slathered all over the ledge. The dog thing, sigh. Yep, another paradox, I'm one of the half of folks that love you guys (and Gavin too), but hate dogs at crags and think it's wildly inconsiderate to leave unleashed dogs at the base of multi-pitch climbs. Likely I'll manage to stop calling you "Mark" far before this issue is resolved here or anywhere else... Yep, it was me, and I angonized over that for quite some time. Until late last fall that rock had an identical twin along side of it and it was that same Jesus-loving birdie that inadvertantly almost pulled that one down on our third while stepping around it. Everyone always grabbed the top of it while they stepped around it to the ledge, but that day when our birdie did it, it rocked 2-3 inches out and he managed to gently push it back in place. We had to stay late that night and trundle it. The remaining half poses yet another Beacon dilemna: it is arguably one of the single most, dangerous rocks climbers encounter at Beacon. Like its trundled twin it too is loose and everyone's natural inclination is to yard straight out on the top of it while stepping around it; if it cuts on someone in that position it could easily cause a fatality in the air or on the ground below or both. It would get trundled too except there is a good possibility it's weight pressing against the cliff is partially supporting the 4x12 or so structure above it and possibly more. I'd be willing to remove that marking as well, but be aware this rock poses probably the highest rockfall risk on any route out at Beacon; on a scale of 1 to 10 I'd rate it a 9 or 10 because of the combination of all the above factors and the fact that the route is so popular. Thanks, I really do enjoy seeing you out there even if "Mark" imprinted my pre-alzheimers brain the weekend I first met you both. I'll now probably call him "Jason" the next time he comes over. Good luck on Dodd's, I find moving fast for just that first couple of moves is what get's me through it - anytime I move slow there it usually means I'm gonna grip and pitch.

My apologies to all for not being clearer about the overall agenda out there sooner and as I said, and Kevin is reiterating, we aren't likely to see eye to eye on every issue but we'll need to move ahead as a group anyway and try to not let our own differences spill over too much - trust me, we need to stick together in general going forward as in reality we "Beacon locals" are a subset of the total OR/WA climbing population. The best thing we can do is show we are willing to step up to some responsibility; invest the time, money, and energy to back up the claims that we care about the place; and do our best to set aside the past and try to have some decent relationships - especially with the BRSP staff. I can't stress enough how much they are actually in our corner in a world of much larger regulatory and interest group agendas. I definitely hear the trust and fear issues of all of those of you who went through the "Peregrine Wars" and attempts to work issues through back in the '90s. Jim, Bill, Kevin and others are expressing genuine concern but at some point you have to either be willing to let go and move on in good faith or hold on to it all at the expense of losing a voice going forward. My feeling was and is that we've come to that crossroad a decade later and it's time to get re-involved with the processes that manage BRSP - I can certainly understand if some folks don't agree or don't have the heart to go through it all again, but those processes go on with or without us.

We probably need to back way up and I'll put out the short answer to Bryan's question of: My wish list of things to accomplish when we started was the following and still is: a) Preserve the traditional character of climbing at Beacon - there is no need to bolt every route and chain every column top at Beacon, sport climbers have Broughton and Smith, and my goal is to see Beacon preserved in it's "native" character as a trad area which can be summed up as developing routes with gear, then pins, then bolts as a last resort. As Jim Opdycke likes to say, this is, was, and should remain a trad area where you can come have some adventure or train for a big wall. [Endless and ongoing] b) Get route development on the NW Face opened back up. [initiated and in process] c) Cooperatively monitor the Peregrines to help determine the extent, scope, and duration of each year's closure. [initiated and in process] d) Get the West face out from under the Peregrine closure. [broached] e) Get the East face closure revisited and reexamined in part or in whole. [broached] f) Get a clear and shared understanding and agreement on route "cleaning" so we can operate transparently. [Part of defining the route development process...] g) Get the fixed pro approval/route development process changed from a per placement basis to a per route basis. [Part of defining the route development process...] h) To establish pre-opening and post-closure work sessions to get work done that is too hazardous to accomplish during the open season. [Done] i) To insure us "locals" are positioned with at least a shred of credibility to partner with the BRSP Staff in the next review/revision of the BRSP Climbing Management Plan, a process that occurs every couple of years. Rest assured that there are organized and better funded climbing groups/associations who aren't "locals" that are more than ready and willing to step into that role and set the agenda for us "locals" if we don't get half an act together. [Lots of progress over the past year] None of the above, and particularly the last, is possible while we hold, maintain, and cherish a "cops and robbers" approach to [bad] relationships with the BRSP Staff, WSP, WDFW, and other agencies of record. Again, nothing we do out there happens in "secret" in reality - the BRSP staff either knows it's happening when it's going down or they find out shortly afterwards and they've been doing that quite reliably without any help from me for the past decade. Re-forming the BRCA, doing the pre-opening work, the Anchor Replacement Project, monitoring the Peregrines, working with the BRSP on signage, etc. all are designed to build cred for us Beacon "locals" so we have a place at the table the next time everyone sits down to cast "climbing" in the stone of the climbing management plan. Take your pick: hold on to the past and keep playing cops and robbers to maintain an advesarial relationship with the BRSP staff and all the agencies of record and get an agenda set for us; or get a clue, an act, and build some credibility for a change so we have some saying our own fate... - Joseph [P.S. No one likes all this sh#t, and I'd rather just be climbing then pouring time, money, and energy into this, but the writings been on the wall for a long time that things have gone south badly and were only getting worse as time goes along.]

Just to be crystal clear on the tree issue; earlier I posted this: That section in bold was part of my "listening" to those of you who oppose te slings. At Bill's suggestion I'll talk with the BRSP Staff, pull the slings for now and we'll just go with the signage while we continue our discussion. We'll also put together a meeting and those of you who are really interested in the issue and not just spraying can come and we'll work through some of this and you can also get the BRSP perspective firsthand.

Kevin, Just to let you know, I've already talked to one person that said you called and told him to get on the Internet and read this thread - so which is it - you want it quiet or you're actually calling people up and telling them to come here and driving your own argument of proliferation?

Bryan, I haven't "isolated" your sentences, merely referenced them and I haven't refuted anything you've said, merely stated my opinions - they just happen to differ from yours at times. You're more than welcome to yours as is everyone; we certainly aren't likely to be coming to any unanimous consensus on every issue out there, but we can certainly work through them and work with the BRSP on issue that fall under their purvey out there. I first climbed at Beacon in '80, and have climbed there every year since moving here in '87 save one when I was working out of the state. Lots of that was mid-week roped solos and I generally had the place to myself. But I've been climbing there all along and I'm not acting unilaterally or alone. The main secret about Beacon is that most folks run up the same few lines over and over all the time and that a lot of great lines have grown over and are never climbed anymore or extremely rarely. I didn't "define" the bad anchors, overgrown routes, loose rock buildup, or incredibly bad relationships all the way around - I found them. The only real "mystery" out there is why a ton of great routes never get climbed anymore. Exactly how has anything I've said or posted "degraded" or "cheapened" your's or anyone's elses "past experiences" or the "future experiences of others"? Talk about drama. The main thing that threatens to "cheapen" everyone's future experience out there is bolting; the main threat to everyone's past experiences is neglect and abandonment of classic lines. You have some problem that I don't happen to live a 8-to-5 life? That I stay up past your bedtime? Is the fact that I work at night somehow threatening? My mother is dead, thanks, and that's a lot of drama over when and how I choose to live my life... Yes, some of the anchors have been replaced, some of them badly, and I've removed a bunch of hangerless studs from various folks' learning experiences. Also, sometime just the the hangers were replaced, or the old anchors not removed. Also, a bunch of the chain anchors that got slammed in two years ago really pissed off folks at various agencies both for the "brightwork" littering the place and because no one even bothered to notify the BRSP staff further causing bad blood - again, it's not like they didn't notice it happening. In short, some of those anchors work, some don't and for various reasons. This work is happening transparently and with web posting because it is an organized effort coordinated with the BRSP. I couldn't care less about "credit" and I'm not "creating" any changes out at Beacon. I'm simply replacing deteriorated anchors, trying to help repair tattered relationships, trying to get more climbing opened up and opened up early as possible, and trying reclaim some pretty classic old routes that clearly aren't of interest to pretty much anyone, and do it all as transparently as possible so you know and anyone else interested (individuals and agencies of record) know exactly what and who. I am, however, more than willing to take responsibility for all my actions. And again, I haven't been doing any of this alone or in isolation even if I happen to have a schedule that let's me get out to do the anchor work when it's relatively quiet.

Well, Kevin, since you bring it all up this is a good time to talk brass tacks about climbing out at Beacon. I've been climbing at Beacon for a long time and let's get real here; what's been going on out there for over a decade is a train wreck of misunderstanding, miscommunication, inneundo, drama, lies, and behavior on par with Peter Pan and the Pirates with us playing the role of the Lost Children while casting everyone representing any type of authority charged with managing Beacon as the Pirates. Personally, since I've been climbing there I haven't seen climbers - me, you, or the collective whole of us "fix" much of anything. Hell, the deteriorated state of the anchors and the total neglect of all the South face column routes (with the exception of Blownout) and lower SE Corner routes alone speaks volumes more than my paltry fair here on CC.com could ever say. The result of a decade of bad relationships and antagonism between climbers and everyone else involved or interested in Beacon Rock has served no one's interests as witnessed by the total shut down of route development on the NW face and no cooperative interaction relative to monitoring the Peregrine nesting activity for early openings. Now call me a complete asshole, but I've been through some of this before elsewhere and I don't want my climbing at risk out there and don't have any problem saying up front my actions and motivations are completely selfish - and to be honest, I'm not really a community service kind of guy. In that selfish context I took it upon myself to start a dialog with pretty much everyone currently involved with climbing at Beacon and decided I personally and we as a [beacon] community had better get half a clue and something resembling a act together before one was imposed on us by outsiders. To that end I've been working for over a year with Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke, Erik Plunkett, John Ernster, David Anderson, and various other groups and agencies with an interest in Beacon and I can tell you up front that the days of playing cops and robbers are over, we either operate transparently or things will continue to go against us everytime an incident occurs or a regulatory decision point arrives. And there are lots of other players out there, in and out of the climbing universe, that aren't "locals"; all of them better organized and funded than us and more than willing to step in and set agendas for us if we want to keep playing games [of denial] instead of getting real. And Kevin, it's not like the routes, partying, or any other climber activity has actually been successfully hidden from, or escaped, the BRSP staff notice over that past decade - hell, I could get a better party ledge schedule from them then from you guys. And you know what - they don't care that you want to bivouac and party up on the ledge - they like it - it gives the place a little cache. Trust me, all the drama whipped up about "us" versus "them" is strictly coming from us queens - not them; we're simply part of a job they love and if anything they find us pretty f#cking entertaining on the whole. The "webbing [anchors] off the trees" quote was in reference to trees on the columns and elsewhere by substituting pins or anchors as in the case of the Dodd's Jam tree. The SE Corner tree is somewhat of a special case and paradox because I think we can all agree we don't want to see anchors on the ledge and we don't want the tree to die. But as I said earlier, I've already seen and entire cliff top of bigger and better-anchored Cedar trees completely die off from climber traffic/rappelling and the corner tree is looking exactly like those did on their way out - it is not "withstanding us" at all, rather it is showing some real signs of decline due to our impact. Unless you've seen the cycle played out somewhere else already it's no doubt hard to recognize that it's really happening, but it is. If I was strictly following the "webbing off the trees" I would have whipped two anchor sets up there, one for belaying and another for rappelling, but I haven't and instead we have been working with folks (including you here and now) to figure out a way to protect that tree with minimal impact on all our "sensibilities". For me the issue is lots of folks do this rappel - when there is no webbing on the tree at all; that webbing might atract a couple of more folks with the sensibility of lemmings who can't read a warning tag would hardly amount to a significant increase in rappel traffic over the damaging level that exists now. No one is bringing in outside environmental groups, no one is "getting the rock closed", and let's get straight up about one thing: Beacon Rock isn't a secret, and never has been a secret, or a "hidden gem" - what has kept folks away, and keeps them away (other than the poison oak), is the fact that it's a trad area in a predominantly sport state [courtesy of Smith]. Fixed pro anchors have a long history at Beacon, but the reason more folks have been showing up over the years is actually because bolted routes like those by tunnel #1, Young Warriors (overbolted), and Rythmn Method attracted them. And to be completely honest your personal propensity for placing protection bolts (even though you've been admirably restrained at Beacon) does nothing to assauge my fears about more crowds showing up if you were to get as randy with your drill out there as you have elsewhere. Keep it trad and the crowds will go to Broughton and Smith - let fly with protection bolts like some of the lapses that have already occured out there in the past and it will end up a tall, crowded gymfest no different than Broughton or Smith. It really is that simple. Again, anything I or the BRCA does at this point is going to be completely aboveboard and transparent. As for press, the BRSP Staff is currently writing up an intra-agency newsletter article on the turnaround of the relationship with climbers and the special [and desirable] role climbing plays in the park so all the press isn't bad. Let's be clear about another thing, there is nothing "safer" about climbing at Beacon - it's an inherently dangerous place to climb. No amount of cleaning will make it safe, but we can try to eliminate some of the conditions that spawned the football-size rocks that came down on the trail as you come up to tunnel #1 on both Saturday and Sunday last weekend. And from what I can tell, new anchors or not, I'm not sensing any great goldrush to climb the columns on gear. But I want to climb them, and almost all have been abandoned so long they deparately need to be cleaned - "Flying Dutchman" took four hours to minimally clean after the anchor work. The idea here, being selfish again, is if folks know the anchors are there they might actually consider adopting a line or two in the columns and cleaning them so it doesn't take another year to get the job done and get back to just climbing. Again, those days are over and we are actually damn lucky to have the BRSP Staff we do, Erik Plunkett's brother is a climber and John Ernster is an alpine climber once badly injured by rock fall (and he has been on many of the routes there including up to the tree ledge). I've dealt with land manager staffs that don't know climbing, don't like climbing, and don't want climbing - we have the opposite going here and we are damned fortunate to have them... I know your climbing history, and we both know Jim O. Jim would be the first to admit to being a drama queen along with more than a few of us. All the "drama" is completely manufactured by us largely for our own consumption. We'll have to disagree on the postings - everything I do in a role perceived by any agency as pertaining to the BRCA will be done transparently in cooperation with the BRSP staff and posted. As for people "traversing the Grassy Ledges" - serious climber-initiated rock fall is one of the real threats to access out there from the perspective of accidents, damage to the habitat, and damage/obstructions on the tracks. We either start policing ourselves, including making sure less experienced climbers are informed about how to operate out there, or we are at risk. Kevin, I appreciate your passion for the place, and there actually is no shortage of things to "fix" anytime you or anyone else is out there if the desire is genuine. Lots of them are small things: trash, loose rocks, marked up routes, eroded trail sections; others are big like next year's pre-opening work session, reclaiming the South face column routes, or Peregrine monitoring. Once the anchor project is done there will be more BRCA organizational work going on - again, feel free to jump in anywhere along the line and the same goes for anyone else... P.S. We can also start a thread on the Peregrines and closures if you want to get into that [deep historical well of resentment for many]... - Joseph

No, if you folks delete your posts here I'll do the same and we'll just stick with the original thread...

Ok, We can talk about the tree here I guess. I'm definitely not trying to eliminate risk out at Beacon, to the contrary and to be somewhat blunt, my concern is primarily for the well-being of the tree - not climbers. If you are stupid enough to rap off that tree and it cuts, well, bummer all the way around. My priority is the tree. Every rap straight of the tree counts and collectively they will kill the tree. Again, people are rapping regardless of whether the rings are there or not. I'm all for a sign and we are in the midst of having one made up, but my [somewhat pessimistic] opinion is it will not stop folks from doing the rap. So the rings were installed after discussion with BRSP relative to helping protect the tree. Again, this is to protect the tree, not climbers. The rings are installed, but I'm open to talking with BRSP and backing off to just a sign and a warning tag (on the tree) and seeing what happens. But if people are seen doing the rap after that then the solution is likely going to either be webbing or anchors. I for one definitely do not want to see anchors on the ledge, but again, doing nothing is leading to the loss of this tree due to direct human impact. I appreciate all your comments and understand quite clearly their are many opinions on the issue and some of them strong opinions. I'm glad for it, but together we are only part of the decision making process, BRSP is also involved and has a lot of say in this and other decision about climbing at Beacon. Bill Coe and Jim O. can attest that the relationships with these various agencies is on the mend and that we are lucky that BRSP staff is enthusiastic about there being climbing at Beacon. We could just as easily have had staff that wasn't, but also be aware that we are better off showing we can tread lightly in our verical travels. Our impact on the habitat and level of cooperation is watched both short and long term by numerous groups and agencies. The loss of the tree due to our traffic will not enhance our standing with anyone and our impact on it is patently clear to all. The "pissing match" or "sling war" I'm referring to is doing a SE Corner tree sling version of a "bolt war" where we spiral down a loop of putting slings on and removing them. If the BRSP staff picks up on that it will also not help at all. The slings are installed and need to stay installed unless we work it out here to remove them and coordinate that removal with the BRSP Staff. So to say it again, we're looking for solutions that prioritize protecting the tree, not climbers or our sensibilities. What can we do to prevent further damage to the tree? Do nothing and the tree will die from our impact; signage, may prevent some rappels but not likely all; slings and you may encourage more raps, but will prevent more grooving; anchors, offend everyone, but again protect the tree. That depends on whether you believe the impact is greater from the stress of the rap or from the grooving in the bark and traffic over the roots. My opinion is both have significant impact, but cutting down through the outer bark is and further trampling of the roots does more direct damage. There is also significant wear and tear from just using the tree as an anchor which is also something the slings/rings cover as well. I think here we just disagree, and I don't think a sign on the trail will stop folks from rapping the tree. I'm not opposed to giving that a try in conjunction with a warning tag on the tree. But again, if people continue to rap, stronger measures will need to be taken. Part of the pre-openning work was related to loose rock and that will be the primary focus for next year's pre-openning work session. But let's make a distinction between loose rock and some fairly fine gravel sans rocks. No one is talking about hauling rocks up there, small gravel with fines is what is planned. Will some inevitably come down, yes, but it won't be doing anyone any damange and again, I'm more concerned with the health in the tree in this instance than I am with a tiny bit of gravel or dirt coming down occasionally. This is a case of deciding this tree is a landmark feature of the route and Beacon as a whole, recognizing our impact, and putting some effort into reducing it. Signs, slings, and anchors all suck along with having to deal with the issue at all, but for the tree to survive some level of insult to our collective sensibilities is likely going to have to be endured. Unfortunately it is "broke" relative to our impact on the tree and doing nothing, while convenient for us, doesn't do much for it. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climbers Association

Beacon Rock Update 10/11/05...

Bill, Ivan, NOLse...? Rockraptor5, I'll be out of town at the first ever Soutern Illinois climbing reunion over that week or I'd take you out. How about a little NW hospitality here... Joseph

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 10/11/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project "Iron Maiden": Work on "Iron Maiden" is complete. "Flight Time": Work on "Flight Time" is complete. "Flying Swallow": Work on "Flying Swallow" is complete. The top anchor has now been outfitted with webbing and rings but some comments and precautions are in order relative to this route and rappelling it. First off, topping out to the tourist trail or going down "Flying Dutchman" are the best ways off the upper Grassy Ledges after doing any of the routes Between "Flight Time" and "Flying Dutchman". That said, the "Flying Swallow" top anchor is an excellent example of where equalizing webbing anchors are the deal; this anchor allows you to rap "Flight Time", "Flying Swallow", and "Iron Maiden" depending on what direction you leave the ledge - left, center, or right, respectively. But be forewarned: - You need two ropes. - Rapping center or right ("Flying Swallow"/"Iron Maiden") the rope goes over about 8' of rock and you will both need to pull very hard or bring a jumar and aider to pull the rope - one person can't pull it just with hands (and it more or less welds to the rock in the rain). - Rapping left ("Flying Swallow"/"Flight Time") one person can pull the rope by hand, but you may still want a jumar to make it easier. That said, the rap down "Flying Swallow" is quite a journey in it's own right with those caveats. This is THE rappel to do of the three if you are going to do the rap. Also, below and left on "Flying Swallow" about thirty feet from this anchor is probably the best bivy column top at Beacon; a truly spectacular spot. This ledge has no rappable anchor at the moment, however, so if you were going to do it you'd still need two 60's, rap off the left side of the top anchor ledge, and leave the ropes hanging during the night (and don't let those ropes go flying out of reach at any time). P.S. Here is a shot of one of the FA anchors from "Flying Swallow" put up in '65 by Kim Schmitz, Earl Levin, and Dean Caldwell. The new anchor is immediately below this one and we left this classic for show and tell... [Note of thanks to Jim and Larry for helping out on Sunday...] "Flying Dutchman": Currently has a 9mm haul line fixed on it for the Anchor Replacement Project; if you rap or climb this route please make sure when you're done that the end of the haul line is accessible from the ledge of the lower of the two trees where you walk off the rap, thanks. The area at the top of the climb has been cleaned up a bit and the blue safety line from the big pine tree is cloved to the "Flying Dutchman's" old anchors; please clip this safety line if you are going down to check out or do the rap and please leave the safety line biner and clove hitch as you found them, thanks once again. "Upper Grassy Ledges": There is currently a safety line across the top of the Upper Grassy ledges to allow us to safely traverse them with the haul bag during the Anchor Replacement Project; if you use it to go check out the upper ledges - great - but on returning, use it to come back down by the very small pine tree right where the trail ends at "Flying Dutchman", which would put it on the left, or West side, of a rounded rock outcropping. Do not use it to come down on the right, or East side, of this rock towards the line up to the "Land of the Little People" ledge as it is needed out by the edge for humping the haul bag up after the hauling. "Next Up": We've replaced thirty four anchors to-date and there are still eleven anchors West of "Flying Dutchman" to do before returning attention to the stretch to the East on over the Lower Grassy Ledges to "Little Wing". This will take one or two more good days and then probably four or five work sessions for the fifteen anchors in that latter stretch to finish up the project. Some of these will be hauling jobs, some will be hiking up and rapping down from the tourist trail; as always, any volunteers are greatly appreciated. Safety Issues Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall [repeating]: The recent rains have been bringing rocks down and the area at the start of the "SE Corner" has obviously taken multiple hits. We don't know where these rocks came from but we suspect the blackberry retaining chute that crosses the Grassy Ledges. Add this to last weekend's rockfall of football size rocks on both days onto the area just as you come up to Tunnel #1 and you get conditions that pretty well dictate wearing a helmet. As always - be extra careful of each and every footfall and rope movement when anywhere up on Grassy Ledges. For that matter just clip rock, bushes, anchors, or anything else if you're traversing the ledges roped - try not to let your rope drag at all... General Issues Central Columns Route Adoption [repeating]: We're working hard with the Anchor Replacement Project to set the stage for ressucitating all the routes across the columns in the middle of the South face. But there is a problem. After years of folks mainly climbing around the SW and SE corners, the columns have become badly overgrown. However, once the anchors are all set we should be able to safely clean out and restore the South face column routes. This will probably be the post opening thrust next year. All of you interested in climbing these classics, or freeing some of the remaining aid pitches, might consider working together on restoring these routes. If everyone adopted two or three lines, cleaned them up, and revisited them each year we could probably get this all done in a month and then just be able to relax and enjoy climbing these routes the rest of the year. Keep it in mind anyway and we'll probably put together a meeting over the winter. "SE Corner" Tree Discussion: See post earlier in this thread and any continuing discussion in another "Oregon Cascades" thread titled: Beacon - SE Corner Tree Discussion , thanks. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association

Folks, could we move it here and keep the other thread for updates, thanks...

My preference would be to do nothing as well, but having already seen one crag completely deforested of large, ancient Cedar trees over the years I can say that the tree is definitely at no small risk and in fact is in pretty tough shape around the roots from all the traffic. To some extent you have to ask yourself if you care whether the tree is even up on the ledge or not; because it isn't necessarily a permanent feature at all or one that can tolerate human impact indefinitely without ill-effect and eventual loss. You do have to actually look at it closely to see the ongoing damage beyond the rope groove in the trunk. Some of us would like to see the tree around for a good while yet and if that means taking some actions then we're willing to take them in consultation with BRSP Staff and the WA state biologist/habitat steward assigned to BRSP. As far as "'native gravelly mix' showered down" on folks - welcome to Beacon, stuff falls there and has been coming down off that ledge forever, that's why it doesn't have hardly any left - people and rains have brought it down all along. Our replacing it between the roots won't be causing anything that hasn't been happening since the route was first climbed. Again, the issue is our impact and what can be done to correct for it and minimize it. One is to replenish the lost 'soil' and the other is to educate and/or provide alternatives to using the tree as an anchor. The slings are a compromise after much discussion and as a reasonable measure between doing nothing and installing multiple sets of anchors up on the ledge. They represent a reasonable compromise that does protect the tree and is, for the moment the decision that's been taken in association with the BRSP; please respect it and leave them in place. We will have a meeting or two before humping gravel up to the ledge and we'll post date/time here and you can all come discuss it. We are attempting to find middle ground between doing nothing and the draconian slamming in of anchors. Again, doing nothing is not really an option as [clueless] folks have proven they will keep rapping straight off the tree. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association

Do not remove the slings on the tree - we don't need a pissing war over the slings. As I've said over and over, this is the most heinous, suck-ass rappel on earth, but last year I saw a dozen people do it straight off the tree anyway; and those were just the ones I saw when I happen to be out and in view of the tree. You know, I know, and everyone should know not to do this rappel, but people do it regardless, and they do it at the expense of the tree every time. Ditto for using it as an anchor, dragging rope and webbing around it in the process. No one should use the tree for any purpose, but they do. The webbing and rings are there to protect it and a brass sign will be making an appearance soon. The [unpleasant] alternative to the slings is anchors up on the ledge and we'd very much like to avoid that. Doing nothing is not an option. Traffic over the roots is another totally human impact that needs to be ameliorated and we will be hauling gravel up to it for that reason. If you'd like to get together and talk about the tree, either with the BRCA, the BRSP, or both, please get ahold of me or John Ernster of the park staff. Right now these are the joint plans of the BRCA and the BRSP Staff. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association

Ah, just stumbled over this one. Below are links to posts I've done on gear mods (including ball nuts) and one specifically on ball nuts. The best ball nuts to get aren't made any more; they are the Lowe/Byrne units and the come up on ebay fairly often. There are about 10 issues I have with the current ones and have gone over them with Seth at Trango should they ever escape the demands the Max Cams long enough to do a new rev of them. Here are some links to some discussions of them: Gear Mods: http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=79606 Ball Nuts: http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=79606 & http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewt...ew=&start=0

Shoot me a pm or email: Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com

Beacon Rock Update 10/6/05...

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 10/6/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project "Flying Swallow": The top anchor on "Flying Swallow" has been replaced, but it does not have webbing and rings on it yet but definitely needs them - this is not a rap for rapping off the hangers due to the friction when trying to pull the rope. From this rap you can get to various anchors with two ropes. The mid-point anchor for "Iron Maiden" is directly below on this rap and, in fact, you have to swing a bit to the left to get back to the mid-point anchor for "Flying Swallow". Work was rudelying interrupted by rain and work on the anchors in this area will be completed this Sunday. "Iron Maiden": As mentioned, the mid-point anchor on "Iron Maiden" has been replaced and it will remain just hangers without webbing and rings which aren't needed on this anchor. The old bolts and hangers have not yet been removed but will be in the next few days. "Double Dirty Overhang": The top anchor for "Double Dirty Overhang has been located and this aid climb has some issues. The route from the anchors up to Grassy Ledges proper or to the "Flying Dutchman" rap is severely overgrown making entry and exit from the anchors difficult. Further, the upper part of the route itself is now completely overgrown with bushes and trees. It will take a substantial cleaning effort to recover this climb; likely work for next year. [Note of thanks to Mark (HillsHugger) for helping hump gear up to the Grassy Ledges and to Shane and Lee for helping hump it back out in the rain.] Safety Issues Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall: The recent rains have been bringing rocks down and the area at the start of the "SE Corner" has obviously taken multiple hits. We don't know where these rocks came from but we suspect the blackberry retaining chute that crosses the Grassy Ledges. Add this to last weekend's rockfall of football size rocks on both days onto the area just as you come up to Tunnel #1 and you get conditions that pretty well dictate wearing a helmet. As always - be extra careful of each and every footfall and rope movement when anywhere up on Grassy Ledges. For that matter just clip rock, bushes, anchors, or anything else if you're traversing the ledges roped - try not to let your rope drag at all... General Issues Central Columns Route Adoption: We're working hard with the Anchor Replacement Project to set the stage for ressucitating all the routes across the columns in the middle of the South face. But there is a problem. After years of folks mainly climbing around the SW and SE corners, the columns have become badly overgrown. However, once the anchors are all set we should be able to safely clean out and restore the South face column routes. This will probably be the post opening thrust next year. All of you interested in climbing these classics, or freeing some of the remaining aid pitches, might consider working together on restoring these routes. If everyone adopted two or three lines, cleaned them up, and revisited them each year we could probably get this all done in a month and then just be able to relax and enjoy climbing these routes the rest of the year. Keep it in mind anyway and we'll probably put together a meeting over the winter. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association

Mark, See you at 10am - thanks for stepping up to help out... Joseph

Leave to out around 9-9:30. Don't worry about that route, that's the work. We can go up the SE Corner or the first two pitches of Young Warriors, or both.

Hi - by work I mean I'm going out to replace some anchors. In tomorrow's case they'll be the ones around the route called "Flying Swallow". This entails: - humping a haul bag of gear to the base; - climbing some route to the top; - dropping a haul line; - then either talking someone into tying it on or rapping down, tying it on, and climbing another route to get back up to haul the bag; - hauling the bag; - humping the bag over to Flying Swallow; - dropping two lines on the route and rapping, fixing anchors on the way down; So, it's a mix of climbing and working. We can pretty much climb anything you want to get up to the Grassy Ledges... Joseph

Going out for a work session on the central columns, will be doing a couple of pitches up to the ledges and could use some help if anyone is available... Joseph

Beacon Rock Update 9/30/05...

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 9/30/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project Next Up...: Next up now that "Ground Zero" taken care is the "American Death Triangle" on "Iron Maiden" which we'll be able to reach with a double rope rap from "Ground Zero". After that our attention will jog briefly to the "Pipeline" anchor before returning to come up with a [safe] work strategy for the anchors between "Little Wing" and "Blownout". Again, there are safety issues working on some of the lower Grassy Ledges given a decades' accumulation of rock. After that we will be taking a hard look at the overall steep ramp that runs across the base of the South face columns. This ramp/face has become overgrown and is littered with old pins and a few new ones. We will be doing a survey of this face/ramp and developing work plans for it, but those will likely be a project for next year. "Ground Zero" and Rapping: Anchor replaements on Ground Zero is now essentially complete with the exception of one old bolt/hanger that still needs to be removed. But, unlike "Flying Dutchman" which you can get down with anything from a single 50m, "Ground Zero" is a different beast. You can do it with a single 70m in two raps, but only by tying a knot in the end and relying on rope stretch to get you to the mid-point anchor. To be really safe you have to do three raps with a single 70m. Other than that you'll need two ropes. Once again, "Flying Dutchman" is definitely the way to go... "Takes Fists" Top Anchor: The top anchor on "Takes Fists" has been moved out onto the face to a much safer location. Jim Opdyke has asked that the old anchor back on the column top not be removed for history's sake and so it stayed. This anchor was originally placed in a location that was great for sitting while drilling, but definitely wasn't in a good place at all relative to rapping (pulling) or belaying. Again, for all these routes it makes a lot more sense to come back down and do the "Flying Dutchman" rap. As a reminder of that this is a bare anchor with no webbing or rings. [Note of thanks to Ivan for helping out with work on the above two routes...] Unknown Route Info Needed: There is a route between "Ground Zero" and "Takes Fists" that goes up to the broken off column roof just right and a little below the one on "Ground Zero" to two existing Metolius Rap anchors - one grey, one beige. Jim Opdycke said this route was put up by someone younger a couple of years ago; if you have any info on this route or the person that put it up please PM me or email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com. Safety Issues Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall: Well it turns out we had significant rockfall onto the trailhead/tunnel #1 area on both Saturday and Sunday. We still aren't entirely sure where from but are pretty damn sure it is from the main Grassy Ledges trail. The lower Grassy Ledges in that area have been inspected and given the infrequency of travel over them it is probably not the source whereas the main trail is littered. If we can't pin this down and if anymore incidents happen we will be proposing a brief (several day closure to clean the entire Grassy Ledges and the chutes that cross it. Please re-read the previous status update on this issue if this is the first time you are reading about it. General Issues Bird Bands: The Peregrines have to eat and we've found two bird bands on bones up on various column tops recently. One of these was from a Vancouver-based racing pigeon and the other has been sent to David Anderson, the WDFW Biologist chartered with managing the Peregrines, we'll keep you posted as to what it was when we find out. Please keep your eyes open for these and turn them in to the BSRP Staff or contact myself, Jim Opdycke, or Bill Coe and we'll get them passed along. As a side note we've seen the Peregrines on almost every trip out to Beacon this year - keep your eyes and ears open as the are a pretty amazing sight, particularly in a steep dive... Bears: One of Mama's two year olds was idling along the tracks between Beacon and the boat launch yesterday. Looked healthy and happy as it clamored back down into the nature reserve along the river. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association