JosephH

That was Bill and Jim as I understand it. I just replaced the anchor on it.

Kevin, the two one pitch lines around the corner to the right from YW. The dihedral on the left that goes on pro is 'Boardwalk' and the bolted one on the right (courtesy of Bill) is 'Rythmn Method'. Hanmi suggested 'Menopause' for the line above after Jim requested keeping with the reproductive theme.

Good to know - I missed that and would have shown up at the SE one if you hadn't just posted that...

Mark, I'd say by Menopause is a solid, old school (technical) +9 or -10 by Beacon standards (BSS etc) - Hanmi pretty much floats it. The first pitch of TF, on the otherhand, is way harder and far sketchier - more like 5.10c-d R. It has multiple difficult moves, on small technical pro, which have consequences to blowing it.

That's the bummer, I do feel better - until I climb, and then whatever it is comes roaring back about 80' later. Weird.

Nate, good job on the send... I still don't have time to respond to anything here other than to say there is nothing remotely 5.9 about the first pitch of TF and anyone - anyone - claiming otherwise is full of sh#t. I'm sick with something I apparently can't shake and only rears up when I stress myself, like when climbing, so can't really muster a bunch of energy, but I'm not so damn sick I don't know what a 5.9 is. And if the first pitch of TF is 5.9, then YW is a 5.7 and Dods Jam and FFS are 5.8s.

P.S. I can't be on here any more this afternoon, if I miss anything, I'll check it tonight - and I'll be out there tomorrow if anyone wants to talk about any of it...

New route approvals for now will still require Lisa Lantz / WSP review until she has a chance to come down and clearly demarc non-climbing zones with distinct documented boundaries. After that happens, she'll still want to be in the loop on any new routes, but approvals from that point forward will probably happen locally with WSP being notified of the disposition of all applications. As far as "bolting a new route" goes, if by that you mean new, bolt-only sport routes then that's going to be a different matter. Part of the point of the CMP and CAB is to protect Beacon traditions and to not see the replay of any more bolt wars. Mixed routes with some bolts, are one thing, sport routes are another entirely. I personally didn't put all this effort into Beacon to see it simply thrown open to sport climbing. Beacon is a trad island in an ocean of sport climbing opportunities and as far as I'm concerned it should stay that way. This is where the CMP and representation on the CAB gets dicey. You and others may want it thrown open to sport climbing - I and others explicitly do not. I'm certainly not going to sit idly by and see that happen without a fight.

Mark, I don't and can't. I have permission for anchor replacement, for 'Menopause', and for cleaning recently placed spurious bolts (mostly bare studs) [down Dastardly, under which 'Wind Walker' fell]. I in no way have any carte blanc to touch protection bolts at Beacon, nor have I, beyond removing studs (and helping you, which I still have to document for them). I in no way would simply go out and replace the 'Second Wind' bolts on my own without an application. Again, with regards to replacing bolts, the new application is primarily for documentation purposes so bolt replacement dates can start being established and tracked going forward. Bill, unless something is very, very strange with someone's request, approvals for replacement bolts will be exceedingly fast and done locally by the BRSP staff (like in hours or a day or two max). Again, working with the WSP, BRSP, WDFW, Gorge Commission, Railroad, and Tribes is NOT an ala carte deal for us - we can't pick and choose what we'll go along with and what we'll simply ignore - do that and things will quickly go back to bad relationships with all those guys and when the CMP Climbers Advisory Board is re-formed, we won't be on it - non-Beacon PDX'ers and folks from SEA will be running the show. Take your pick, but the 'go it alone', 'anything goes' ways of the past aren't going to bring you anything but grief going forward, particularly as Ben gets progressively more into climbing over the next decade and becomes the owner of all things climbing for the BRSP.

Kevin, real close! The thinking behind the Anchor Replacement Project, was first and foremost to show locals are willing to vest time, energy, and resources in the place - to establish 'ownership'. Second, to provide some functional working basis - along with the Pre-Open Work Sessions and Peregrine Monitoring - for a relationship with the BRSP (WSP, WDFW, and Railroad) based on more than just talk. And third, to establish in a concrete way, acknowledged by those agencies of record, that locals are the primary goto source on issue involving climbing at Beacon (by virtue of demonstrable active participation, currency of knowledge, and maintenance track record). "Manage the climbing area ourselves" is probably a little strong given the reality that WA state law dictates the BRSP manage climbing at Beacon via the CMP. Again, the idea from day one has been to [re]establish that locals are the goto partner in that respect - and not just because we're the 'locals', but rather by virtue of actively 'earning' a place [back] at the table due to our efforts to take a broad active role in the management of climbing out there. Revising the CMP has been stalled out due to BRSP staffing issues, but will be getting back underway and likely our new BRSP Ranger, Ben, will be tasked with some responsibility in that regard given his expressed interest in climbing. Some of the CMP groundwork has already been laid in the development and current use of a new 'Fixed Protection Application'. What has changed in this application (with regard to new routes) is that rather than an application for each piece of fixed pro - which is what the previous CMP required, the new application operates on a per route basis. You provide a digital photo with the proposed line marked up on it and a summary of it's location and likely use of fixed pro (with the idea Beacon traditions will be preserved) and then your proposal will be reviewed by the BRSP, Lisa Lantz the WSP SW Region Resource Steward (she 'owns' Beacon in every respect), and it will be peer reviewed by other Beacon climbers. After you put up the climb you backfill the application with exactly what fixed pro went in if any (I still have to backfill an application for what we ended up actually doing on the recent 'Wind Walker' maintenance with Mark). So far only the first two review steps are in place while the CMP is in limbo and until a Climbers' Advisory Board can be reconstituted and reconvened - the point of all my efforts has been to insure Beacon Locals have a prominent place at that particular table when the time comes. To-date, I (with the 'Menopause' line above 'Rythmn Method') and Shane (with 'Head Case', 'Siege Tactics', and a couple of other great NW Face lines) have both been through the application process and it's painless, relatively quick, and not an obstacle in any way to getting things done. Any 'new' activity - routes or individual pieces of fixed pro - need to be reviewd by Lisa Lantz, whereas replacement-only efforts of limit scope can be approved by the BRSP. A 'big' replacement program of protection bolts would require a serious sitdown with Erik and the BRSP staff and would likely have to be run by Lisa as well, but could probably be done if folks got organized and worked with the process. So on 'Second Wind', I'd say if you're serious, then you should fill out an application stating your proposal is for replacement-only of existing bolts on the climb, which I suspect Erik would approve almost as soon as he gets it. As Bill said, I'd be willing to help out and would also be happy to donate SS bolts and hangers to the effort. I am pretty good at getting the old bolts out and camo'ing holes if any are left behind. And seeing all the old South Face column routes back in action has been a big goal of what work I have done so I'm really psyched to see you guys getting after them all week in, week out - now that's the damn spirit!!! P.S. Ivan, those old buttonhead ladder bolts of McGowan's are incredibly hard, not sure what they are made of but those buttonheads will still be rock solid long after the hangers have rusted off them, and they are a monsterous bitch to get out, even with the tuning forks.

Pink, are you coming up next week?

Ha, those are my ancient CMI I-Beams and a couple of my old Forrest Chimney Chocks too. Yeah, I and a bunch of other folks around the world, keep an eye out for old stuff that Stephane is still looking for. The amazing part is he, Marty Karabin, and Ken Yeager of the Yosemite Museum are all folks with ordinary means of survival and yet have somehow managed to amass these just remarkable gear collections. It'd all be rotting in a box in my basement if it were me, but those guys track down the designers, do patent searches, and in general figure out the origin, ancestry, and stories of every piece in their collections. I'm just glad to be able to help out as someone needs to preserve this aspect of our collective history and it sure as hell isn't going to be me. And Bill recently donated his pristine Dolt Piton and a fat check to Ken Yeager and the Yosemite Climbing Museum so that sucker is now prominently on display in the Valley.

I've taken a 30 footer on a #3 - works for me and way, way better than no pro at all...

You're welcome guys, but it's mostly a matter of rabid self-interest - not that I'd turn down any assistance or anything... The 'traditional' p1 won't be getting pins replaced, but the two other direct starts probably will. With regard to the 'Second Wind' bolts, the only fixed protection work done to-date has been belay/rap anchors and all the pins - no protection bolts have been touched, surveyed, or otherwise checked. Doing so on any scale at all would probably require a discussion with the BRSP and approval of a replacement project plan similar to the Anchor Replacement Project. Also, I'd comment that some of those really old 1/4" bolts are damn stout - particularly the buttonheads - but anything with an SMS plated hanger is probably pretty damn suspect. The bolts on 'Second Wind' aren't the most inspiring, but I believe they felt pretty solid when I tapped them on my way by. YMMV however... I looked at a direct start as well. Like you said thin and stout. You could borrow my Loweballs and Crack 'N Ups if you were going to give it a go.

Hi guys. Ivan, Geoff, and Farrgo, once again, way to get after some of the coolest lines out there. Unless I have it wrong, though I'm pretty sure, this line is 'Takes Fists': And turning the roof could certainly take fists and some larger cams. I cleaned the p2 pitch out thoroughly two (or was it three) weeks ago and some of the lower slabs in between then and now. But I've been sick since then and haven't been able to get out at all to finish the job (with anyone willing if you have the time). Jim and I went over things when I was last out and we have permission from the BRSP to clean and restore the p1 lines under the columns, but the basic plan is still the same as it has been. The first step was dealing with all the really bad mid and top anchors on South Face Column lines which is done (except for 'Flightime'); second is cleaning out the routes themselves which is underway; and last is cleaning up the first pitch approach lines - particularly those under the central South Face roof pitches. Jim also knows where a few of the bootied pins need to be restored on the p1 routes. I just need the chance to get back out and hang ropes on the GZ and TF mid anchors so we can finish the job of cleaning up the approach p1 lines in the area bounded by this line on the West (up the small, black dihedral under the 'Flying Swallow' anchor and angling down and East): And this line to the East (Under 'Dirty Double Overhang' and angling down and West): [ Note the line of now-cleaned shrubberies down the length of 'Takes Fists' p2... ] The bottom line is there isn't much point putting all the energy into in cleaning out the South Face column p2 pitches without insuring there is somewhat decent access to them via the p1 lines. We've discussed this for several years now and sort of dabbled with it in the past, but now dealing with the p1's under the roofs (including 'Nuke-U-Later') is definitely on the radar and underway to be followed by finishing thoroughly cleaning out all the p2 lines from 'Flightime' on through to 'Double Dirty Overhang'. Also, I didn't give 'Second Wind' the cleaning it deserved back when I was on it (2005/6ish), but it was during the sweep to check all the pins on the p2 column lines from 'Flying Swallow' across the South Face to the right - the bad ones were either reset or replaced with pins off the spare pin rack John Middendorf ebayed back in 2004. So if you run into a pin from 'Flying Swallow' to 'Jill's Thrill' it should be good - but do give a shout if you run across one you think I missed.

When you're only going to have hair for so long like Bill and I, you kind of like to put it out there while you still can - it's an old school thing...

Ozone, by and large, is comprised of highly fractured basalt and it only takes a momentary glance at it to establish that fact. Any expectations that routes there (or anywhere) should be solid and 'well constructed' are entirely misplaced and naive. The warning shouldn't come from a guide, but rather arrive as some form of [instant] recognition around the reality of what you are looking at when you walk down there. Anyone incapable of such a basic evaluation of rock (and belaying accordingly) probably doesn't belong out there.

Republicans don't think regulation is bad - hell, they positively love regulation if you're talking regulating people's thoughts and bodies, as opposed to their finances which is clearly off-limits.

People these days don't vote issues or even their wallet - they vote solely based on their social identity. That is the true genius of Rovian electology - split them on social identity using race and religion. That this is even a remotely close election tells you the strategy is still working fine and that people are predictably and hypnotically dumb as a stump every four years.

I agree with this part... I decidely don't agree with this part, however.

it's like, so '19 Seconds Ago'

Probably not this week as we're trying to get the girl off to UW for college. The weekend on I'm good though...

Ivan, I'm more than happy letting you lead, I'm more concerned with route restoration on any such mission and I can do that seconding...

Dude, you are the wily devil, but if you're going to be heading up these old lines then give me a shout - no sense doing them twice in order to get them cleaned out and old fixed pro checked and replaced if necessary. I can either go up with you or give you the gear to get the job done right while you're up there. P.S. I have a shitload of Loweballs, beaks, and Crack 'n Ups that could be used in the process as well.