Kevin_Matlock

Bill - we did the right thing by not trying this line earlier this year! Gaining the rim would suck big time in all but the best of conditions (and even then it felt surgary in spots). Yup, will have to pick off another one next year I'm thinking. Frik - thanks for the kind words. And, as you said, you can definitely descend in a half hour! Saw a group of 4 on skis litterally start 10' from the summit lip off the old chute. While I thought it was a little irresponsible since a fall would have taken out several others, I was jealous of how fast they descended (via the west rim gulley). Actually, I sat there and waited for the last of them (some kid who was having problems locking into his bindings much less skiing down) to start off since I didn't want them behind me kicking the crud down on me. Definitely more tallented skiers than me though.

GLOBAL WARMING!

thanks. no blue jeans; instead i simply went with shorts over polypro.

The plan: The results: Fri/Sat - WCR on hood (good times!) WCR TR Sun - enlisted to working in the yard like a mofo Mon - enlisted to working on my mom's house like a mofo Anybody know how I go about burning my fuckin' draft card???

Trip: Hood - West Crater Rim Date: 5/26/2007 Trip Report: If you have done any route up Hood other than the south slog, you might be asking yourself 'West Crater Rim? So what!'. To those I say read no further.... nothing to see here.... move along... these aren't the droids you're looking for..... But for those who want to step up Hood's challenge in manageable, bite-size chunks I say continue on.... Over the years, I've made it an annual tradition to join the masses for the long, boring slog up Hood. Sure I've done more difficult climbs up more difficult mountains, but something about "getting my Hood climb in" has me returning to it each year. The last couple of climbs up it, however, has really made me want to do a different route, any route that could avoid some of the zoo and gain a new perspective on the mountain. After referring to Oregon High, I came to the conclusion that the next logical progression of routes included Wy'East, Sunshine, and West Crater Rim (WCR). After much soul searching (probably 13 seconds) and for no real good reason other than sheer laziness, I decided upon WCR. Actually, I had been on this side of Crater Rock in years past, but never climbed from that side. Also had planned on climbing the route earlier this year, but due to unconsolidated snow and signs of slide activity, me and the team I was with decided not to proceed. This time around, with my poor climbing partner out of town visiting in-laws, I pushed for a quickie up this route. -Friday 25th- 5:00PM - Decided to go super-light since nothing much should be needed in the way of gear. Grabbed my knock-off Camelback pack and maxed it out with helmet, lightweight alum ax, pons, and little else. Later, luckily remember to fill hydration bladder with H20 since I decide "water might come in handy". 10:30PM - Left the house. Quick run over to AM/PM for gas, coffee, RockStar, Snickers. 11:30PM - On the road. Feeling tired, wished I had more coffee, RockStar, Snickers. -Saturday 26th- 12:30AM - Arrive at T-Line along with approximately 27,000 other climbers. Looking forward to the possibility of solitude on the lesser traveled route. 12:45AM - Headed out; found that the entire stash of climbing permits was wiped out! Large numbers climbing over the long weekend. Noticed for the first time that the entire south side is now illuminated with street lights all the way to the summit.... then realize it was just the line of climbers. Nice night for a walk with light winds, mild temps, and a half-moon to light the way. 1:00AM - Almost run over by a Snow Cat. After it passes by me, and failing to even slow down in the slightest, I watch as it disappears into the darkness only to hear a "SHIT!" coming from that direction. After realizing that neither rocks nor snow do much cursing, I come to the conclusion that the cat almost ran over another climber. 1:15AM to 2:30AM - The other victim of the errant cat catches up to me. Some guy named Rob on a nice A/T setup. I determine that I should have brought my skis instead up trudging up like a sucker. (Not sure if he's a CC'er or not. If so, "hey Rob" ). We pass the time talking skis and climbing; next thing I know we are close to topping out on the Palmer. 3:00AM - Bid Rob farewell since I need to start aiming more west-ward. Noticed that the moon has set and everybody is on headlamps at this point. The MP3 player comes out and I assume the head-down-marching-and-rocking-position. 5:00AM - Getting light now and I can see debris whizzing off Crater Rock. I've traversed slightly high on Crater Rock's shoulder so I'm in the line of fire of the odd hunk of junk that it's showering. Decide it's a good time to take the headphones off and listen for incoming missiles. And just for good measure the helmet goes on. Also at this time I can start picking out options in the route. From the beta, I recall three possibilities: (1) following the gulley up to the hot rocks. I figure why bother since I may as well just climb it from the south. (2) climbing diagonally up the ridge line toward the summit. I've seen tracks up between these rocks before in previous years. None this year and I think getting above them doesn't offer much in the way of self-arrest options. (3) taking the ridge headwall directly to top out first and follow it to the summit. Easily the steepest and I think the least likely for me to do solo. 6:00AM - Start heading up the bowl on the west rim... keep thinking I'm going to cut over to option #2 any second.... just keep going... a little further.... keep going.... SHIT, now it's below me! I have been following a previous climber's ladder of steps. These seem to be the most secure option on this entire face. It's steeper than I would normally prefer to do solo, but not to an extreme extent. I'll call it 60 degrees of snice and just enough to get a "south side climber's" blood pumping. This is probably no more than 200' high so it goes fairly quickly. Fun stuff though. After topping out you come to the ramp leading to the Old Chute. This ramp offered me the chance to sit and veg, and observe those poor south side suckers getting ready for the only fun on that climb. 7:00AM - Took the leisurely stroll on the ramp leading up to the Old Chute. Cool images of the summit coming and going in the clouds. I can also see faint images of the ants over on, and climbing up the Hogs Back. 7:30AM to 8:00AM - Regained the sea of humanity as I work my way up the Old Chute. Think to myself that if the Hog wasn't line up so far west as it is this year that I would have been by myself for much of this portion as well. But, due to the ice in the P-Gates, it's pushed quite a few more over to this route. 8:00 AM - Summit with "a few" of my south side cohorts (and probably a few from other routes, too). Thin clouds and times of wind form some cool blankets below me. 8:30 AM - BS with a self-described "Mazama in training" as we both wait for the inevitable hold ups on the way down from the summit. But he seems to be a nice guy so the time passes quickly. I'm impressed by his lack of "complete terror" that I envision all new, unroped climbers decending the Old Chute should have. I also debate on telling him that all climbs aren't quite this crowded. 9:00 to 11:00 AM - Trudge down as quick as I can; pissing and moaning to myself the entire way for not bringing my skis. Stop briefly for another shot (in better light) of the route that I followed. 11:00AM - Arrive back at my car and realize that I didn't bring a cooler with ice cold beer. Come to the conclusion that this is my regular climbing partner's responsibility to remind me to bring this. Desperate, I crack open an "emergency beer" that I have stashed in the car.... luke-warm beer never tasted better. 11:10AM - Decide to never climb Hood again (until next year). Gear Notes: If I had a second tool with me I would have used it for gaining the ridge. The conditions weren't very firm so it felt vague in spots. If you have a group, and folks not used to higher angle slopes I would image a rope and a couple pickets would be highly desirable. Be sure and bring the cold beer! Approach Notes: Same old drill. Might want to traverse Crater Rock lower and head more up the gulley. I traversed around 9300' and was exposed to some bombs, but the early time of the day had most of the crap holding firm.

Might it look something like this??? Went up today (5-26) and it's practically a freeway. As well as today.

Tonight/tomorrow - new route (for me) up hood all the while trying to avoid the hordes. Sun into Mon - spend my first night on a portaledge; location to be determined.

Come on you aid wannabes! Took this course earlier this year and Gent is a super nice guy and you will get lots of good info! two :tup:'s

No, this sounds about right... it's a single pitch, right? Good job, I'm jealous.

(crosspost) I assume this is the Neve strap-on (BD makes both a strap-on and a step-in compat)? I am in the Portland area so unable to check out your store in person. Looked on your website and didn't see much info. I see that backcountrygear.com has the Neve strap for $79. Can you guys beat that? http://www.backcountrygear.com/catalog/climbdetail.cfm?PRODUCTS__ProductID=BD820

:yawn: thanks for the helpful info; sure it's just what he was looking for...

???? Really? How does this work? "yeah, uhm I kinda like destroyed my gear... will you fix it for free". Sounds good to me; how did you go about this? You just went to the counter and asked? spill it!

Just a logical hunch here, but I'm assuming he's talking about simply summitting. What some would incorrectly dismiss simply as "the easy route" (thus the problem I've seen for a lot of people trying to break into the sport). But yeah, if you were a little more specific you will find someone closer matched to what youre after.

Picture of the ants practicing self arrests. Looked pretty funny to see them standing in one place, then they all would suddenly start sliding down the little slope. (Large view)

letsroll - how was the slide down? i was debating on skinning up, but it just didn't seem to be worth the short ride and the PITA having to pack them through some of the brush and downed trees.

f'n sucks! seems I am always poking holes in my takus w/ my pons. i usually just hand stitch them and then toss an iron-on patch (low temp!!!) on the inside over the stitches. seems to work pretty well, but i have never tried to fix them after "ripping the hell out of them" before. good luck.

Not true. As you start up the final little pitch to the summit (4th class dihedral), you can bypass most of this by looking climber's right for a small notch in the ridge. Working your way through this and onto the west face leads to some 3rd class, albeit exposed, boulders. I didn't know about this heading up, but coming off the top I found this much easier. Essentially you will be directly above the 'terrible traverse' when taking this by-pass.

what he said! the only people who have really climbed hood started at pdx.

This was sort of my prospective of why I asked this in the first place. I mean, what does it matter if the bolting party was the first ascent or not? They still have permanently altered the rock. Why do they get a free pass? I understand that there is the unwritten rule of "leave it as the FA was done", but what happens if the first team up a route bolted it "poorly" (definition purposely ambiguous)? Surely nobody is going to give you shit if you swap out some awkward anchor made from a single crustly 1/4" bolt with a pair of nice stainless jobs, located in a much better location, right? How about if somebody sticks the bolts in a location that is way the hell out of reach for 90% of the climbers... would it be ok to move the bolts closer to the typically climbed line? This is why I was offered the answer of "yes, add them since it will enhance the protection of the climb". I wonder if climbing were almost exclusively a solo activitiy... would if just be expected to have two bolts set at the start? I saw another recent thread here where Kevbone you say "fuck it, it's smith, bolt away". I can't say I know Smith very well, but are you suggesting that it's full-on wild, wild west and nobody there follows the typically accepted rules? Wonder if a person were to just start slamming in a pair of bolts at the start of all climbs at Smith? I'm sure it wouldn't go unnoticed. Again, not sharpening my drill for anything, just asking pointed questions purposely looking to question what's typically viewed as "the norm".

kev, not any one place in particular. The thing that comes to mind is at broughton there have been times when I wanted to aid up but couldn't find any "ground level" anchors worth a shit. I wasn't just going to presume to start bashing in bolts (anywhere) until I had a better understanding of what the "rules" are. I might just keep the idea of "placing them in a hidden, recessed spot, a couple inches off the ground" up my sleeve (as mentioned above), but until I have a little practice time spent bolting, I sure aint gonna risk anyone's life to it. Earlier today was at the the Lake O wall and did the little trick of just rigging the first few bolts for upward pull. Pretty sweet; thanks for those thinking beyond where my pea brain went.

They were climbed already Kevin. Have they now! Ok, let's just think that.....

Ok, understood on the being creative part.... thanks for the example. No worries and peace. Thanks.

kevbone, ok, I'll mark you down in the no-bolts column. But... troll??? Are you paranoid, a skeptic, or disbelief of anyone's credibility here on CC.com? No trolls here man, just a question. I've never placed, nor do I know how to place a bolt. And what Bill said, I don't plan on doing Namesless anytime soon, only local routes that may or may not have been climbed before.

None in particular, just lines that I've been bummed that I couldn't rig a decent anchor. And I've set my anchor as you say at the first bolt, but it goes against my rule of having that single anchor point. I think Matt's point about rigging the first 3 is interesting (if not potentially a bit hard to rig).

Actually for both occasions. Not sure how that matters though... how do you view the difference? Good input so far and sounds like a couple of differing opinions. Keep it coming....