gyselinck

Anybody get anything good over the weekend? Just wondering whats in, whats not...and whats about to be destroyed.

They are just small rust spots inside. Black Diamond Turbo Express screws. Brand new, first time used.

I am a newbie and got a few ice screws and did my first lead today. Maybe am paranoid about my $52.50, but my screws rusted on the inside on the drive home. Is it no big problem? What happens if your on a long climb for a couple of days?

If your good. It was 40 degrees yesterday and it suffered a little. Another week of cold weather and it will be sweet.

I hate climbing bolts with all the good trad routes, but sometimes I can only find people who like clipping. Ya gotta do, what ya gotta do. It was Don Coyte, 5.8.

First, I have a confession...I climbed bolts today. “Be careful,” murmured the pale faced man. I nodded. It was seven hours ago when I awoke ahead of my alarm clock. My usual anticipation. Today would be good day, we were going ice climbing. I quietly sorted out my gear in preparation for the day’s work, careful not to awake my roommate. Classes ended at noon and I wanted to leave as soon as possible. At noon I raced back to my dorm room where my phone blinked, indicating a message. My partner bailed, he couldn’t go. I haven’t been on ice in more then two weeks and was looking forward to swinging the tools. I was frustrated, but it was alright, I had a backup plan. A quick phone call confirmed a trip to Frenchman Coulee, today we would climb rocks. As we approached Vantage it was an unusually warm, blue sky day. I was satisfied to get out, but secretly wished I could be on ice. It was there that I pointed out a helicopter heading our way, fast. “Maybe someone died,” I said. A statement I would later regret. The helicopter landed approximately 200 feet from our vehicle, it was terribly loud. An ambulance, police car, fire truck, and miscellaneous support vehicles filled the feathers parking lot. In the middle sat a lone white jeep. Medical crews raced back and forth. “Oh, shit,” someone whispered. From a distance we watched as a man was loaded into the back of the helicopter. Meanwhile a fireman approached us, we drilled him with questions. Perhaps it was someone we knew? “He fell 35 feet,” said the officer. “He’s not dead.” The helicopter took off and the crews began to pack up. After a short discussion we decided we would stick to our plans and climb. It was on our approach to the base of the wall that we came upon two fire officials escorting a pale faced, shocked looking man, his belay hand was covered in thick bandages. It was nobody I new, I acknowledged him with a quick nod, and continued onward. As we rounded the backside of the Feathers climbing area, sure enough, there were 5 pieces of protection up the wall stopping just short of the pillar top were the man fell 35 feet to the ground. I didn’t know if it would be a good idea, but I ran back to the pale faced man and told him I would recover his gear if he wanted. He thanked me while the fire department wrote out his contact information to give to me, he was all bandaged up. Again, I was told to “be careful.” It was nobody I new, yet I felt saddened for the man and his partner. I retrieved his gear. I have my own theories of what happened. We as people like to find blame in incidents, but fault has no place in such accidents. Shit happens, its part of the game we call “climbing.” If anything, it was a good reminder to the dangers we face. On a good note, the waterfalls at Vantage look sweeet!!!! -Craig Gyselinck

Lets get some more updates.

If your in Ellensburg climber and looking for partners, send me a pm. Ice and rock are good. It's to damn hard to find people.

Can you still buy replacement picks?, that could be why there so cheap, phasing them out. My friend got some and really likes em, but I don't know if you can buy spare picks or not.

Post deleted by gyselinck

I have climbed almost every traditional route on Sunshine Wall and think they are all fine the way they are. Loose rock, dead birds, and pigion shit are all part of the climbing experience. The only thing that needs fixed is the shoe string anchor above Bob's Your Uncle.

I called the ranger station (your advice) and they said that road was closed, so we went and did the South Face of the Tooth instead. (I was thinking about tagging Tenerife that day as well, but the thought of food turned me back.) I was at home eating.

You did it after the Mount Si hike?

Like I previously said, it is very rewarding belaying from pillar tops. Sometimes it reminds me of a picture that should be in a magazine. Use your own discretion, but don’t establish anchors unless there absolutely necessary. Established rappel stations would be better. I write what I do because I care. Regardless of what others think, Frenchman Coulee is a very special place. It is where I learned to climb and where I will continue to climb for years to come. From September through November I was fortunate enough to visit the Coulee on average of three to four times a week. During that time I had the opportunity to meet and discuss Vantage issues with many climbers who are older, better, and more experienced then me (including Martin). Not only did this delete stereotypes which I previously had, but it allowed me to better understand the issues at hand. I strongly agree that some climbs end with hellish exits and that chains would make them more aesthetic. However, for the most part I support that popular climbs be left as is. Also, like Martin says, there are old school extremist. It is not important to agree with them, but to understand them. One of them once said, "Love me, hate me, squeeze me, please me, but do get involved. The biggest thing I've learned over the past year is that you can make a difference." There is nothing that I could agree with more. Lets here what others have to say.

Please remember that there are many "classic" climbs at Vantage without chain anchors. Sinsemilla, Stems and Seeds, Tangled up in Blue, and Seven Virgins and a Mule to just name a few. It is very rewarding to finish a difficult route, top out, and belay from the pillar top - looking out at the surrounding coulee. It is a very pretty area, one of my favorite places to climb. There are also many potential "classic" climbs in the area, but I don't think chain anchors are the answer. It's not a good idea to put up chain anchors on exisiting traditional routes, but I do think it is a good idea to make established area rapel points. The anchors above Bob's Your Uncle should be replaced with chain anchors. Be responsible.

In "peak season" you won't find a parking spot.

I was up in that area today, I could post a picture if I new how.

Because they are all just a bunch of sport climbers who should go themselves. If your too good for Vantage, don't go there.

I am at CWU and would like to go. If there is anyone who lives in Ellenburg or is driving through and could give me a ride, that would be cool! If anyone wants to do any climbing at Vantage this weekend also, just send me a message.

My partner stuck his finger into that bird more then three weeks ago, he must be getting pretty stinky by now.

I am most likely going there on tuesday and will look for it. What wall was it on?

I am posting here again to see if there is anyone else. Have got two responses, but the more the beter. I am hoping to get out to Frenchman Coulee weekley. I am looking for solid 5.8 or above trad partners. (I won't have a car, but I have no problem chipping in for gas, plus sharing my gear)

When did you loose it?, I know a few people that go there a bit. I can ask around.

Were you the guys getting reading to climb Air Guitar as we were leaving from Crossing the Threshold? I had an older yellow helmet. Don't know of you remember. Just wonderin.

Is anyone going to CWU? I am going to be a freshman this year and will need a climbing buddy. (My other climbing partners are going to UW) I mostly like moderate alpine stuff. I get out a couple times a week. This summer I have reached 25 summits. Below are a few of the techniqual route that I have completed this summer just to give you an idea. Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse Black Peak - Northeast Ridge Ingalls Peak - South Face and East Ridge Vesper Peak - North Face The Tooth - South Face Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress and East Face Mount Thompson - West and East Ridge I also like to do sport climbing. Have done a lot around Exit 32, 38 and Frenchman Coulee. Anyways, if you are going to CWU or live in the Ellensburg area and need a climbing buddy, send me message and will hook up. -Craig