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corvallisclimb

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Posts posted by corvallisclimb

  1. Cobra and Corvallis, who are you guys? I don't know everyone's handle here...

     

     

    My name is Tyler Adams and I live in Corvallis, Oregon. I don't belive we have met, why are you curious?

     

    I guess I can't talk now, that no one knows who I am...

  2. That I've never done, cc, you are the one with probably 800 posts in spray since your reg, go back you where your posts count.

     

    I was referring to your post here, whining on some website about this. Sorry I didn't wave my tough guy credentials and crack open an oe as I walked in the door.

     

    I think your a little bit confused, not every fourm on here is titled "sray". Thats where the whiners post. cantfocus.gif

  3. You (and everyone else on this site) is entitled to their opinion regarding what is the best style. It is my opinion that if this person wanted to create a sport route for all to enjoy he should put in the best bolts he/she can and in a place that makes the route safe and enjoyable... i.e. good route engineering. You and I both know that rap bolting allows for better route engineering than on lead. Yes bolting on lead is "bolder"... but is it a smarter and safer way to create sport routes? I would say no.

     

    I totaly agree with you. My biggest issue is, is that is steins really the place for a project like this? Mabey I shouldnt even be questioning this, but this is a disucssion form so people please discuss. But I'd rather not see this be a discussion about me and what I can an cant do.

     

    And Mike check it out someday, its not too stupid, its a very proud looking pillar in a cool location.

  4. well he can certainly spray 5.11

    That I've never done, cc, you are the one with probably 800 posts in spray since your reg, go back you where your posts count. This is an attempt to start a real discussion, not a place for spray lords or cheastbeats.

     

    John- I do not belive so, this was about 2 months ago when I was there, and I never got around to posting this. I could, and have gotten up some 5.11 sport with a bit of A0, just not really my style though. If I'm going to pull on things, I might as well leave the free shoes at home.

     

    This isnt some anti sport climbng post, or anything like that. Its more, is Steins Pillar really the place for this? I found it to be an eyesore. It seemd as if the culprit couldnt even fix his rope to one of his prizes, he had to tie up the regular route on the NE face 5.8 A2 or 5.11a FA 1950. If these new routes where put up on lead drilling from stances and hooks, more power to them. But I definatly do not see this as the style there routes where put up. Some one came in with a power drill and lots of ropes, and made it a day. Am I wrong for not agreeing with this style even if I couldnt "red point" their new line?

  5. was out there a while ago to scope the thing, and noticed what 2 bolt lines going directly to the top, and a rope fixed all the way up the regular route. has the horrible ethical standard of smith rock made its way 30 miles east? its sad to see prized summits like steins, that once where only attaind by hardmen seeking adventure. can be attained by your average 5.11 sport wanker on a break from something at smith. what happend to ethics in oregon?

  6. my aid rack is

     

    3 rurps

    6 beaks

    8 kbs

    10 las

    6 angles

    doubles of micro nuts

    doubles of hb offsets

    doubles of reg nuts

    set of aliens

    set of tcus

    doubles cams up to 3.5 triples of some

    hooks x 2

    cam hooks

    heads

    rivet hangers

    tie offs

    screamers

    bolt kit

     

    this has gotten me up most everything ive tryed, as well as a few FAs. and when youve got a partner to combine racks with its awsome. its always nice to have alot and its always nice to have a little. see what your style is and what your comfort level is and youll know what to cary. i dont climb anything as hard as jake but for some one who likes to nail and have some adventure, a rack like mine would probably suit. pleanty of routes where put up before all off this modified shit, so go have an adventure and leave some of the newer tech at home.

     

    How many screamers will you take on an aid climb in the A2+ to A3 range?

     

    I own 5 so... pleanty of people have climbed with out them, they are just for peice of mind!

  7. my aid rack is

     

    3 rurps

    6 beaks

    8 kbs

    10 las

    6 angles

    doubles of micro nuts

    doubles of hb offsets

    doubles of reg nuts

    set of aliens

    set of tcus

    doubles cams up to 3.5 triples of some

    hooks x 2

    cam hooks

    heads

    rivet hangers

    tie offs

    screamers

    bolt kit

     

    this has gotten me up most everything ive tryed, as well as a few FAs. and when youve got a partner to combine racks with its awsome. its always nice to have alot and its always nice to have a little. see what your style is and what your comfort level is and youll know what to cary. i dont climb anything as hard as jake but for some one who likes to nail and have some adventure, a rack like mine would probably suit. pleanty of routes where put up before all off this modified shit, so go have an adventure and leave some of the newer tech at home.

  8. im in for the 22nd. im in wyoming finishing up a wilderness EMT course. and will be back in oregon on the 16th so i would be missing anything close to that. would any one be up for an aid climb, picnic lunch wall? or the mesa verde wall? i need a fix!

     

    PS NOLSE: i have a spindle full of DMB shows and some other stuff for you as well as a refund since my sorry ass took a year to do that lol

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