corvallisclimb

drill your first bolts by hand, then gain appreciation for those that bolt on lead by hand... then mabey you can power drill

Ooohhh, you want it bad, don't you, big boy? PM full body shot and free-climbing ray-zoo-may for consideration. No... Im just sick of seeing your pro-sport, anti aid, irrational rants, in attempts at serious discussions. I don't care how hard you can free that doesn't make you opinion any more just than mine. Like many have said before... Royal Robbins, Fred Becky, Etc.. can't free 5.12 nor never did, but so they as climbers, have a lesser opinion than you or others who might be able to free 5.13?

sous le toit bivi would be way shitty! compared to what else there is on that climb. Nice job you guys!

aid climbing is looking pretty rad... heres a nice shot of some aid on a route that should really go free! Sean Plunkett on The Big Chill VI 5.9 A4

DFA please shut the fuck up. Your irrational thoughts are not needed in this disussion. Say something of worthwhile thought and honesty, and it would be greatly accepted mabey even appreciated. For now leave your shit in spray.

I like the way you put it there. I guess thats how I think. Since I will never climb 5.14, I know would be pissed if one of my aid FAs got bolted just to be freed...being that it was something I was proud of sans bolts.

so its been retroed. Who did that? Well ya... from what I can tell/know/heard there where 3 original 1/4's from the aid FA (1967 Seve Heim & Jim Nieland) then in the late 90's Brook Sandahl bolted it to try and free it. Mark probably knows more than I do... Another disucssion point I thought of... Why didn't they TR it first then bolt in when they felt good enough and sure enought that they could lead it. On any sport route I put up I TR the hell out of it before bolting the lead bolts, making sure I can make the imgainary clips and so on, though I climb at no where near that level of Watts and others. I guess its that kinda mentality at Smith that gets to me... oh it looks hard lets bolt it, with out even giving it a sold TR effort. I mean shit walk around smith... how many abandoned projects can you see?

I just dont understand why hed still list the first pitch as A3 "Aid a series if pin scars past several bolts into a left facing corner. Belway beneath the big roof" From what I can tell on route there where 3 original mid pitch bolts... now theres 9 or so... oh well

When it's a "last great problem" of ~20 years standing that defeated all the hotshots of the day, starting from Watts in the mid-80s to right up to two years ago, until some short girl sent it and upstaged them all? In the process making the hardest FA by a North American woman? if Watts bolted it in the mid 80s why is it included in the 93 guide as an aid climb... for somereason i thought they bolted it late 90s.

pull your stick clip out of your ass and get over talking shit on aid climbing

trying to aid that route clean and skip bolts i took numerous falls onto shitty gear, including both static long daisy falls onto a two cammed yellow alien and a #1 metolious nut... shit hols even in smith tuft. the reason he probably did that was because the gear messed with his finger locks.

because they couldnt pony up and do so... hence why it was probably bolted in the first place. if i was in to chopping, that route would be first on my list. i also thought the route was called the great roof... but i guess when you add bolts and free climb it you can call it what ever the fuck you want

but there are still bomber nut placements side by side with bolts. should an aid climb that can be enjoyed by many be retro bolted to only be free climbed by 2 people?

cracks a crack... beak crack or a hand crack, still a crack in the rock

can you say bolted crack?

All belays are bomber, theres manditory 5.8 out of the aiders, the 5.5 start is more of a 5.9 boulder problem to 30ft of unprotected 5.4 really nothing, i soloed it in sandals and i suck. tho you can to the 5.9 sport start. the last two pitches link easily. the hooking is not manditory if you free climb or have a stick clip. there is usually a bomber bolt every 30ft id say. and there is a lot of mank fixed shit. any one wanna team up for a major route clean up? ive got a ton of ASCA stuff ready to be used, could prolly lower the hole count a bit.

i have a gas drill that is in decent shape, the throttle cable needs to be replaced but besideds that it should work fine. pm if intrested and well work something out, but im not asking for anything, just that youd prolly have to pick it up because i dont want to have to purge it or what ever.

Paine has had horrible weather so far this year Its even been raining in town here almost all week. Almost all climbers have been shut down this season, brit Nick Turner and partner made it within 300m of the summit of the south tower via the south face, one of the parks long standing problems.

I had the pleasue of working on a fire at the Hole in the Ground this year. From what I could see there was miles and miles of smith tuff. It was great to have the perspective of looking down into the canyon, but I sure would have rather been down there rolling over in an IK or something. If your ever driving down 95 take a detour the Jordan Craters if youve got time... remote Oregon at its best.

I don't think it matters who did it, its stupid non the less. Times have changed, camming devices are the norm, those should really be chopped.

depends on what you want i would reccomend futalafu.. if you want to stay close to santiago, vina del mar is a nice place if you want some beaches and stuff.

Ya, someone posted on supertopo that he did infact commit suicide on Saturday out near Smith. The times I hung around him I definitely noticed his passion for climbing and top notch skill. My condolences to his wife, child, family and friends.

Yes, I do think it would take someone who had never hand drilled a hole before 40-60 min to drill a 1/2" by 4" hole. (my 20-40 min addition was on top of Kevbone's original 20.) whoops! I didnt read that far... I was thinking 3/8x2.25, but I see what your saying about being a noob. why does everybody have to wind up bitching now?!?!

Yeah I highly reccomend the UPS thing my buddy was in your shoes last year and did that and it worked out prefectly for him.

Thats funny that you mention it because no more than 10 feet to the right of the photos kevbone posted is where the plastic sport route was. It has since been chopped but the scars are still visible. That is funny. I did not see that! I will look next time. Yeah it cuts up a totaly blank section of the wall, it looks like 30 or some odd holes in a 60ft route.