Spliffy

GET ONE OF THESE!!! Or make your own. I made on the other day. It's a combo NW Trail Park Pass/Golden Eagle Pass written on the back of a hotel garage pass and it conviently hangs from my rearview mirror. Total cost=$0

Yeah, what Bob said. Wankers. And remember to bring a ROPE

Other Potential Gruesome Consequences Ice climbing is for fools. I'll be pulling down hard on the plastic.

um...WHICH Beckey route? There's only like 200 or so to choose from...

Too stupid for words, but KOMO gave it a try regardless... Having said that, there is a SWEET hand/fist crack on the Interstate Battery building on James street, in The 'Ham.

I think that mineral oil is a poor choice. You may want to consider a high temp cutting oil instead.

To go along with the other medals he didn't really earn, Paul Hamm was just inadvertantly given the gold medal in the womens 1000m flat-water kayaking, and now he is refusing to give it back. Another reason to be ashamed to be an American...

I use a "Parking Pass" that I got from the Red Lion Bellevue Inn when I was down there a couple summers ago for a seminar. The dates faded off, so it's pretty much good forever.

Did it in 19 recently, but that was with a SUPER slow partner, a route-finding error on the E Ledges, and chat time with another party on the trail down.

Mounties Expose Part 1 Mounties Expose Part 3 Mounties Expose Part 2 But my favorite part of the whole thing: Learning How To Love a Mountie But, alas, this sort of group based, no holds barred creative expression no longer exists on this site. This is about as much as the moderators will allow.

The benefits of your setup are clear. Thanks for your expertise. Your sharing will many save lives.

Also works well for pushing up on a stuck rope.

Congrats on your climb, and not to play arm-chair climber or anything, but you almost couldn't have picked a WORSE place to bivy, from what I can tell from your pics. I've seen house-sized blocks and debris on the glacier under the "NW Face" from the seracs up high. My $.02.

I don't know that Don Whillans could have run a marathon, or would have wanted to for that matter, but he was quite hard at altitude. You should train by putting a plactic shopping bag over your head, and securing it around your neck with a rubber band, then rip it all off just before you pass out completely, if you can. Climbing 8000m peaks is like trying to kill yourself, and stopping just before you die, or dying regardless. Have fun!! Your colleagues at the cubicle farm will be quite impressed!!

This setup works really well, too: It's basically an EDK with a double-square-knot-double-figure-eights-follow-throughs-on-bights knot, with overhands-on-bights-with-biners-and-double-fishermen backups. I use it all the time when I triad climb on TR, but it works really well in the mountains.

You can also attach a prussik to the trigger on a cam. When you're done rapping, pull on one side of the rope, the prussik tightens, and the cam pops out like magic. No more tat littering the mountains, either.

"In July 1991, a woman named Francis Alley claimed that James burned her in the genital region with a hot knife and tried to force her to engage in oral sex with his then-lover/now-wife, Tanya Ann Hijazi, during a crack-smoking session. Mary Sauget, a fledgling performer, weighed in with equally explosive accusations in November 1992; she said that James and Hijazi prevented her from leaving a meeting gone wrong by slapping her until she lost consciousness. The charges ultimately directed against James were a nasty lot: false imprisonment, aggravated mayhem, torture, sale or transportation of a controlled substance, and more, more, more. In the end, James accepted a deal from prosecutors and pleaded guilty to assault--and, to this day, he swears that this crime is the only one he committed." Good riddance to BAD RUBBISH

Cortez the Killer. I think it's in Canada.

"Selkirk's North"? I mean: "I'm a fucking idiot and should read ALL of the posts" My bad...

Guidebook is "Selkirk's South"?

So it's Squamish 5.10a?

So the S Ridge is the classic that everyone raves about? Looks harder than it is, steep but moderate, stellar position? Pardon my studpidity, but is that in your first pic?

The best part of the water-free descent is that you can HEAR water the entire way down through the woods, you just can't GET to it. It's quite maddening. There is a slime-covered wall on the logging road, though, for the daring. I took a suck...

Pic of E Ridge? I don't have the guidebook...

DRU: Which line in your pic is the E. Ridge? Is it the prominent ridge heading up from the saddle on the left, or the thin rib on the line of shadow and darkness? What type of rock?