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Everything posted by hohm
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If you come in from the North, you will cross at least one Creek, and should still be plenty of snow on the descent.
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A little more info....will be doing the East Face of Chair....4-5 pitches of easy 5th, with a few moves of 5.5 through the overhang. Found one potential partner, but could use another one!
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I know, its not very inspiring, but Im just getting started again. Old farts and young whippersnappers both encouraged to respond....
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If you are in the Bellingham area, the West ridge of North Twin Sisters is highly recommended (many TR about this route on CC). The West ridge of South Twin is also very good, but has some low 5th near the top. Makes a very nice 2 day trip, camping in the basin between North and South...
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The other thing about BMI is that it is very dependent on the size and density of ones bones. Your typical sturdy hardcore alpinist is unlikely to have a low BMI, because of the way they (we) are built. On the other hand, the hollow-boned competitive sport climbers typically have low relative bone mass and thus a much lower basal BMI. A much better barometer of your overall fitness is your percentage body fat....
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James---He is thinking about joining the Seattle team. He has been the the junior climbing program for a year, and the coach is encouraging him to join. Maybe you guys could get together to climb sometime..... (anyone under 18?)
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Wow, that is spectacular! My son (15 yo) is considering joining the team, so he will be stoked to hear this!
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Check your PM
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To Drederek....I think old fartism officially begins somewhere around 50....I know because I am getting close and I feel it getting nearer. BTW, where is OW quarry?
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I just started getting out on the rock again after a 3 year haitus, and it seems as though everyone out there is well, sort of "youthful"... Its not as though I dont enjoy climbing with younger folks, but it would be nice to meet some people still climbing hard who are more my age. Where are all the old farts?
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Yup,, gotta be Erie. Nothing else close comes close....
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Stavrogin, I dont know about Sunset Slabs at Larabee, but Sunset Slabs at Erie is pretty much beginner territory. And yes, classes are often taught there, due to the abundance of fixed anchors and low angle climbs. There are a couple of interesting lines on the South Slab though, moderate and pretty clean.
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Mt. Erie has a number of 5.8-5.9 bolted routes, if you dont mind wandering around the mountain to locate them. Powerline wall is probably your best bet, also the Orange Wall (for 5.10) and Shady Hollow.
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Once again, I have had any desire to climb Johannesburg completely quenched by a trip report. Great description of reality!
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There was a young climber named Judy A genuine alpinist cutie, When she glissaded, The ropeteams all waited, Watching her slide on her bootie.
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Can anyone recommend a 20+ pitch rock climb in WA
hohm replied to pnut's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Climb Dreamer twice.... -
Very true about the waiting holes above the Kautz. We had the second on our rope disappear in an instant down a deep one, fortunately we retrieved him unhurt about 30 minutes later. Stay roped until the summit, and stay safe!
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Yes, Larabee does have a couple of nice, albeit short cracks. The one called "sand in your crack" in the above post is fun, and can be has hard as mid 5.10 (variation) as long as you dont mind the rain of grit. About Oyster Dome....there are actually at least half a dozen nice 5.10ish sport climbs there, and a couple of harder ones. And the slanting trad route up the left side (5.7) is a kick, especially if one continues to the top of the dome. And yes, the views from the top all the way to Victoria are killer...
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Oyster dome is about 45 minutes uphill from Chuckanut Drive, and the parking is about 6 miles south of Larabee State Park. It is the huge hunk of stone hanging on top of Chuckanut Mountain, and the climbs start above the infamous Bat Caves (follow the signs). There are several trad climbs on the lower face, and some nice bolted routes on the upper face. Its not exactly "roadside cragging" though, so make sure you have a few hours to devote to the experience.
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Frankly, the roped climbing at Larabee is mediocre at best, unless you like sandy slabs, but the bouldering is not bad at Clayton Beach. If you have time, hike up to Oyster Dome, where there are several good climbs in the 5.10 range, both bolted and trad.
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Nice report...and it brings back memories of being benighted at near the top the technical climbing on the West Arete, and spending a sleepless night on a small ledge watching a full-moon slowly slide across the sky. We got seriously off-route above the gendarmes, and spent a few hours puzzling our way back to the ridge, thus ran out of daylight. I agree though....its a worthy climb.
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Agree about Sunset Slabs....absolutely the safest place around to learn how to climb. Bring some long runners to reach from the anchors over the edge, and you can have fun ticking of several short routes on the west facing slabs, all within 30 feet of each other. The views are great too! Then, when you gain more confidence, head around the corner to the south face of sunset slabs, and you have more challenging and slightly longer routes.
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Nope, the camera was inconveniently left in the car, but I will take some next time I am up that way. Let me know if you need more specifics in locating them...
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Dave, Check your PMs