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AJScott

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Everything posted by AJScott

  1. Great job! I gotta get up there.
  2. Had a great time on the Emmons route this last Sunday. A half a foot of fresh snow made for spectacular views, and a richer experience. Mark and Michelle hiked into the meadows friday night and spent the night in the rain and got soaked. I showed up early sat. and we hung around there camp and let gear dry out. They were skeptical about the weather, but it cleared while on the inter glacier. We shared the flats with one other party, and I had my first bivy on Rainier. Is there a good way to straighten shots like this? I hate it when I have the horizon all crooked. We were woke by the first party going by at 12:30! We decided to let a couple parties get in front of us to take out the guess work of the route finding with the fresh snow and all. We got going at 2:30 with 8-9 teams ahead of us. It was a faWking zoo up there. Mt Rainier is the closest thing Washington has to a Disneyland. We started to pass parties at the top of the corridor, and ended up being the first party from the emmons on the summit. Sunrise We felt a little bad because the team that broke trail the whole way took a really long traverse around the upper schund, and we took a way more direct route over two crossing that gained us a good 45 mins. Only one other party followed us, we used 1 picket on each crossing for a running belay. Final few feet to the top! It was Mark and Michelle's first summit of Rainier, and now they only have Glacier peak left, and they will have all of the volcanoes for the summer. nice job guys! Michelle is one tough chicka. The route is in excellent shape right now! The fresh snow really cleaned the place up.
  3. I took two friends up the emmons that day and ran into two different climbers who went up the kautz and down the emmons, maybe they were behind you guys. Great day to be on the mountain! nice photos.
  4. http://www.alpinedave.com/misc/holds/hold_making.htm I have never made them this way, but it seems like a pretty cool way to make holds...
  5. rbw1966 takes the cake!
  6. We were glad he decided to chew on my rope at the end of it...He could have made that descent a LOT slower if he chewed the rope in half! That rock was where we dropped down on to the snow at, we tried to stay on the ridge too far and were kind of forced into that (it was either go down that and get on the snow, or go back down the ridge and I hate turning around) it was really fun rock around that ridge, much better than the climb
  7. Climb: Chimney Rock-EFD Date of Climb: 7/31/2004 Trip Report: Jake drove down from Glacier Friday night and met me in Tacoma, where I had yet to pack anything for the trip. I did my best to try and remember everything, but it always fails. We left tacoma around 8 and headed up to the Pete Lake trail head. It was late, and we accidently parked in the Horse parking lot. Of course we did not realize this until we laid down to bivy in the parking lot and noticed a peculiar odor. The parking lot was covered in horse shit, so we kicked what we could out of the way and just said f'it. We got going at 7 after loungin' around breakfast stylee. I realized I forgot two of the most important things, my ice axe, and...THE COFFEE!! argh, not off to a good start. We cruised the trail up to the first switch back of the PCT and headed off in to the woods. We were on and off the trail, and didnt end up at the bivy basin Becky mentions. Instead we ended up on the Moraine/ridge that Klenke used to bypass the steep headwall from the bivy basin. ridge. We continued up the bypass and there was some fun easy climbing along the ridge on solid rock. Then we had to cross the snow over to the base of the climb. Jake gave me his picket to use as a ice axe, and we roped up with jake in front to try and stop me if I started sliding. Lucky the snow was in good condition, jake kicked steps for me and we were at the base of the climb at 4. We climbed one pitch, and then scrambled up to the heather, and up the class 2-3 pitches, and continued unroped to "pitch 5" The climbing was on solid rock, with plenty of places for pro and lots of belay ledges. Here is a shot of the descent down pitch 5. We got to the top a little after 7, here is a shot of the final chimney to the top. There was a established bivy platform, but it looked like a 5.6 move just to get on to the damn thing, so we moved some rocks around on a ledge about 10 feet below the summit and actually had a pretty nice bivy spot, with a good wall around it. Sunset was great: And so was the Blue Moon: While we were laying down to cook dinner, I looked over at Jake and there was a huge mutant marmot monster rat less than two feet away from him. I yelled what the hell is that, and by the time jake turned around he just caught the tail of it scurrying away. Two seconds later, the damn thing was CHARGING us again! This little mutant marmot had these two young men screaming like little school girls. After much rock throwing we thought we had rid the pest. But when we woke up he had scattered a bunch of garbage, as well as chewing the rope and my rack sling! BEWARE OF THE MUTANT MARMOT MONSTERS!!!
  8. Looking for a fourth member for this coming weekend. There is two friends and myself, and I would rather split a tent than bivy. shoot me a PM if interested.
  9. Great job! I spent this last fourth of july on snow dome, and wish we could have stayed longer! I was eye-ballin' Mt. Tom while we were up there, but never made it over there, summited the middle peak though. And what a amazing photo of that slide...I have a picture in which you could see half of it, but thats the full meal deal!
  10. Jeez, thanks man! That is so informitive, I am really exited about this trip. Last summer when I was up on Lemah all I could think about was my desire to climb that even bigger and badder looking mountain close by, AND THAT MOUNTAIN WAS CHIMNEY ROCK. Thanks a lot, I will be taking off tonight after work and sleeping at the trail head, will post some photos!
  11. one of those photos it looks like your wearing jeans and tennies on the summit
  12. like they do in those Army commercials
  13. wow, that is a great photo of Constance, that mountain is special to me. First solo climb for me...and how beutiful in the winter...It looks like some fun route options for winter climbing
  14. Heading there this weekend...thanks for the info! hope to bivy on the summit, if its not to much of a pain to haul up the bivy gear. Thanks
  15. heh, I was up there on sat. I was pretty amused by that chain of webbing as well. It was fun to swing around on it, jumpin from side to side. check my tr for a photo of it
  16. Between Bryant and Chair I climbed some 5.6 sections...but all of that can be avoided by climbing below the ridge on heather and talus. The ridge to Roosevelt is rated at 5.2, but it has a lot of loose rocks, and is not all that fun. Nice exposure and setting though. Alpinfox...I did have a long timer on my camera, I actually wanted the picture to be of me swimming away from the camera, but that was as far as I could get with how cold it was, so I was mid turn around I actually thought about taking that webbing, it was in good shape...and a real eyesore. I did have fun swinging around on it for a while.
  17. hell yea. My friend and I were just talking about needing a gym around here. I have never even climbed in a gym and I have been climbing most of my life. There just arent any around here. keep up the good work! looks amazing
  18. from that large slab you want to go around climbers left of the ridge...there is a obvious climbers trail...easy "climbing" then your at a final notch below the summit.
  19. keeeeeeeeewwwwwwwl nooookiee
  20. whoa, how close were you to that fire?
  21. What part of the climb?
  22. Adam, the same guy in the photos, just climbed Christie this weekend and said that IS a HUUUUGE slide. Its not very often to get a slide large enough to cover a glacier with rock
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