AJScott

rbw1966 takes the cake!

We were glad he decided to chew on my rope at the end of it...He could have made that descent a LOT slower if he chewed the rope in half! That rock was where we dropped down on to the snow at, we tried to stay on the ridge too far and were kind of forced into that (it was either go down that and get on the snow, or go back down the ridge and I hate turning around) it was really fun rock around that ridge, much better than the climb

Climb: Chimney Rock-EFD Date of Climb: 7/31/2004 Trip Report: Jake drove down from Glacier Friday night and met me in Tacoma, where I had yet to pack anything for the trip. I did my best to try and remember everything, but it always fails. We left tacoma around 8 and headed up to the Pete Lake trail head. It was late, and we accidently parked in the Horse parking lot. Of course we did not realize this until we laid down to bivy in the parking lot and noticed a peculiar odor. The parking lot was covered in horse shit, so we kicked what we could out of the way and just said f'it. We got going at 7 after loungin' around breakfast stylee. I realized I forgot two of the most important things, my ice axe, and...THE COFFEE!! argh, not off to a good start. We cruised the trail up to the first switch back of the PCT and headed off in to the woods. We were on and off the trail, and didnt end up at the bivy basin Becky mentions. Instead we ended up on the Moraine/ridge that Klenke used to bypass the steep headwall from the bivy basin. ridge. We continued up the bypass and there was some fun easy climbing along the ridge on solid rock. Then we had to cross the snow over to the base of the climb. Jake gave me his picket to use as a ice axe, and we roped up with jake in front to try and stop me if I started sliding. Lucky the snow was in good condition, jake kicked steps for me and we were at the base of the climb at 4. We climbed one pitch, and then scrambled up to the heather, and up the class 2-3 pitches, and continued unroped to "pitch 5" The climbing was on solid rock, with plenty of places for pro and lots of belay ledges. Here is a shot of the descent down pitch 5. We got to the top a little after 7, here is a shot of the final chimney to the top. There was a established bivy platform, but it looked like a 5.6 move just to get on to the damn thing, so we moved some rocks around on a ledge about 10 feet below the summit and actually had a pretty nice bivy spot, with a good wall around it. Sunset was great: And so was the Blue Moon: While we were laying down to cook dinner, I looked over at Jake and there was a huge mutant marmot monster rat less than two feet away from him. I yelled what the hell is that, and by the time jake turned around he just caught the tail of it scurrying away. Two seconds later, the damn thing was CHARGING us again! This little mutant marmot had these two young men screaming like little school girls. After much rock throwing we thought we had rid the pest. But when we woke up he had scattered a bunch of garbage, as well as chewing the rope and my rack sling! BEWARE OF THE MUTANT MARMOT MONSTERS!!!

Looking for a fourth member for this coming weekend. There is two friends and myself, and I would rather split a tent than bivy. shoot me a PM if interested.

Great job! I spent this last fourth of july on snow dome, and wish we could have stayed longer! I was eye-ballin' Mt. Tom while we were up there, but never made it over there, summited the middle peak though. And what a amazing photo of that slide...I have a picture in which you could see half of it, but thats the full meal deal!

Jeez, thanks man! That is so informitive, I am really exited about this trip. Last summer when I was up on Lemah all I could think about was my desire to climb that even bigger and badder looking mountain close by, AND THAT MOUNTAIN WAS CHIMNEY ROCK. Thanks a lot, I will be taking off tonight after work and sleeping at the trail head, will post some photos!

one of those photos it looks like your wearing jeans and tennies on the summit

like they do in those Army commercials

wow, that is a great photo of Constance, that mountain is special to me. First solo climb for me...and how beutiful in the winter...It looks like some fun route options for winter climbing

Heading there this weekend...thanks for the info! hope to bivy on the summit, if its not to much of a pain to haul up the bivy gear. Thanks

heh, I was up there on sat. I was pretty amused by that chain of webbing as well. It was fun to swing around on it, jumpin from side to side. check my tr for a photo of it

whoa!

Between Bryant and Chair I climbed some 5.6 sections...but all of that can be avoided by climbing below the ridge on heather and talus. The ridge to Roosevelt is rated at 5.2, but it has a lot of loose rocks, and is not all that fun. Nice exposure and setting though. Alpinfox...I did have a long timer on my camera, I actually wanted the picture to be of me swimming away from the camera, but that was as far as I could get with how cold it was, so I was mid turn around I actually thought about taking that webbing, it was in good shape...and a real eyesore. I did have fun swinging around on it for a while.

hell yea. My friend and I were just talking about needing a gym around here. I have never even climbed in a gym and I have been climbing most of my life. There just arent any around here. keep up the good work! looks amazing

from that large slab you want to go around climbers left of the ridge...there is a obvious climbers trail...easy "climbing" then your at a final notch below the summit.

keeeeeeeeewwwwwwwl nooookiee

whoa, how close were you to that fire?

What part of the climb?

Adam, the same guy in the photos, just climbed Christie this weekend and said that IS a HUUUUGE slide. Its not very often to get a slide large enough to cover a glacier with rock

I tried to stay on the ridge as much as possible going across to Roosevelt, and there was a lot of chossy sections so I think I may have downclimbed it. I guess Beckey might have me confused if I didnt go over Bryant...I thought coming up from the pass that drops you down to Melakwa lake puts you between Bryant and Hemlock, Bryant being to the north from the notch. I dunno, I will have to get back to the area and have a better look. btw, nice job on Shuksan chucK...I wanna see some photo's of that ridge up the summit pyramid used by you guys. Sounds like a nice bypass of that gully.

Climb: Roosevelt-Kaleetan-Bryant-Chair- Date of Climb: 7/24/2004 Trip Report: This trip was by no means an asthetic one...I mainly was just out trying to bag some peaks. I lost my Bling Bling sunglasses somewhere on this trip... I left the Alpental parking lot at 5 and summited Roosevelt via Gem lake at 7:45. Here is a photo of Chair while descending to Snow lake in the morning. Sat around for a bit and then headed over to Kaleetan via the ridge connecting the two. I was hoping to stay on the ridge as much as possible...but the ridge is fawking looooose, so I ended up on the sides of it quite a bit. I found two old pitons while making the traverse. I sat up top of Kaleetan for only 10 minutes before I could here the masses on there way up from Melakwa, So I decided to take off. I went down to the lake and skirted around the left side on scree and talus. I then ascended a large boulder field up to the saddle inbetween Hemlock and Bryant. Now I headed over to Chair staying on the ridge. Beckey has no mention of doing this...but there is no way im the first to do it. The ascent up to Bryant was really easy, but staying on the ridge over to chair was pretty challenging for me. Here is a couple shots of some of the climbing I found while traversing to Chair: A shot from the summit of Chair, back on the Kaleetan traverse: There was a group of 6 that came up the ne butt, and I got tired of listening to them talk about the 10 essentials and other mountaineer stuff...so I took off pretty fast from the summit via the chimney used for the s.e. face route. Never seen one of these before: silly... Ran down to source lake and took a couple swims in the very cold water... Then I had the great idea to head straight down from source lake to check out some stuff that I had rode in the winter...bushwhhhhaaackkituz. I guess it was nice to get away from the crowds on snow lake trail, but it was a lot of extra work, and not suggested by any means... Gear Notes: I think I only had 1 of the 10 essentials. Approach Notes: stay on the trail hippy

great photos joshk...insperational

damn...hate those gates.

My friend who lives in Glacier said that last night a large group of mountain rescue vehicles sped by on the highway...We were wondering if anyone had info?

I have decided to go out and get some rock instead...thanks for the input. I've already almost been swept down to price lake off the north face this year...Probably just wait for next year. I am just so frustated that we turned around that time...I want to get back there, and get up that route, its purdy.