AJScott

I tried to stay on the ridge as much as possible going across to Roosevelt, and there was a lot of chossy sections so I think I may have downclimbed it. I guess Beckey might have me confused if I didnt go over Bryant...I thought coming up from the pass that drops you down to Melakwa lake puts you between Bryant and Hemlock, Bryant being to the north from the notch. I dunno, I will have to get back to the area and have a better look. btw, nice job on Shuksan chucK...I wanna see some photo's of that ridge up the summit pyramid used by you guys. Sounds like a nice bypass of that gully.

Climb: Roosevelt-Kaleetan-Bryant-Chair- Date of Climb: 7/24/2004 Trip Report: This trip was by no means an asthetic one...I mainly was just out trying to bag some peaks. I lost my Bling Bling sunglasses somewhere on this trip... I left the Alpental parking lot at 5 and summited Roosevelt via Gem lake at 7:45. Here is a photo of Chair while descending to Snow lake in the morning. Sat around for a bit and then headed over to Kaleetan via the ridge connecting the two. I was hoping to stay on the ridge as much as possible...but the ridge is fawking looooose, so I ended up on the sides of it quite a bit. I found two old pitons while making the traverse. I sat up top of Kaleetan for only 10 minutes before I could here the masses on there way up from Melakwa, So I decided to take off. I went down to the lake and skirted around the left side on scree and talus. I then ascended a large boulder field up to the saddle inbetween Hemlock and Bryant. Now I headed over to Chair staying on the ridge. Beckey has no mention of doing this...but there is no way im the first to do it. The ascent up to Bryant was really easy, but staying on the ridge over to chair was pretty challenging for me. Here is a couple shots of some of the climbing I found while traversing to Chair: A shot from the summit of Chair, back on the Kaleetan traverse: There was a group of 6 that came up the ne butt, and I got tired of listening to them talk about the 10 essentials and other mountaineer stuff...so I took off pretty fast from the summit via the chimney used for the s.e. face route. Never seen one of these before: silly... Ran down to source lake and took a couple swims in the very cold water... Then I had the great idea to head straight down from source lake to check out some stuff that I had rode in the winter...bushwhhhhaaackkituz. I guess it was nice to get away from the crowds on snow lake trail, but it was a lot of extra work, and not suggested by any means... Gear Notes: I think I only had 1 of the 10 essentials. Approach Notes: stay on the trail hippy

great photos joshk...insperational

damn...hate those gates.

My friend who lives in Glacier said that last night a large group of mountain rescue vehicles sped by on the highway...We were wondering if anyone had info?

I have decided to go out and get some rock instead...thanks for the input. I've already almost been swept down to price lake off the north face this year...Probably just wait for next year. I am just so frustated that we turned around that time...I want to get back there, and get up that route, its purdy.

Would it be wise to try and climb the N. Face this weekend? I just read that freezing level for sat. night will be at 14500! Has anyone seen what the face looks like? Any info/pictures would be appreciated AJScott

fawkin rad...youve been gettin'er done.

too many

I know the N. Face still has snow...

wow, I was told that it took a lot longer to climb tomy...was it 8 hrs rt or 11rt?? either way that still sounds faster than my friends have suggested. The same friends also suggested bringing ropes for the summit, they turned back because of exposure Maybe I will have to head out there and find out for myself. cool photos...the polish bob picture made me laugh out loud.

Went up Pershing on the 18th with my friend Rod. I climbed Pershing solo last year around this time, and dont remember the bushwacking being quite so bad. I guess I tend to suppress bad memories. Once the bushwacking was over with, there was a small amount of snow to cross before the final gully to the summit ridge. The ridge to the summit is really fun easy climbing on large slabs. goofin around towards the summit with sawtooth's in da backdrop Summit photo with Stone. Two from the descent: 9hrs. rt. The roads are in great shape right now, looks like they have seen some recent work.

love that area...nice day climb.

pussy shit? pffff....it was pretty chill compared to skiing the emmons, no cravasses's here

start skiing...

ahhhhh.....great photogs! Now I really want to get up in that area!

wow, thanks for all the great info. Maybe I will have to bumb Redoubt up on the list of things to do for this summer...This web page is great, I have got so much info for climbs that you just cant get from a guide book thanks guys

Is it a lot faster climbing redoubt from canada? I have wanted to go up there for a while, but I havent really done a lot of research on it other than the approach from the states...

Climb: Mt. Olympus- Date of Climb: 7/4/2004 Trip Report: I drove out to Forks thursday night to meet up with Adam who is living in Forks for the summer, we sat around drinking and decided to drive out to the trail head and crash there. We took Adams bus, which we drove at a nice rasta pace to the trail head, arriving at 1 in the morning. We left at the trail at ten in the morning for the long hike in, It was raining and I was really skeptical about this trip's weather from the get go-and my doubts were proving true. Traveling in the Hoh was amazing-lots of green stuff... We got to elk lake and were planning on going up to glacier meadows, but after hanging out in the shelter for a bit, we decided to crash there. We knew we werent supposed to sleep in there as its used for emergencies, and everyone who passed made sure to remind us...but we figured keeping our gear dry and LIGHT was an emergency. We got going in the morning and the weather still looked like crap, but once we got close to the Meadows, the weather began to break and we got our first views of the massif. Our destination was Snow dome...and I could not be any happier about hauling all of that gear up there. I think we were some of the only people in the Olympics that weekend who got to camp outside of the clouds and the rain. They stayed hovering below us for two days. We had a amazing sunset, as well as a very large moon that came up behind Mt. Olympus, it was a very special night. It was one of those times in the mountains where you feel like you are exactly where you are supposed to be in life...and everything feels just right. We woke up and got going around 7, and there were already parties on there way up to the summit that had left from glacier meadows! these people were ALPINE STYLEEE. we were more on a RASTA STYLEE MISION. We finally got going and after watching two parties try and go through the early season route, but both turned around...we figured we would still give it a shot. The schrund was way to large to cross, but we found a slot that allowed passage at the edge of the schrund. It went with a couple class 4 moves on rock, with some nice ice to frontpoint on! it was really fun...I led up it, and set up a fluke and an ice axe, and belayed Adam up. This was Adams first trip using ropes so he was pretty stoked on all of this. We than cruised over to the summit, and went up the S.E. We kept the ropes on because we had them. The climbing was kind of fun, there was a fun lie back crack towards the top. We sat around the top for a while, and decided to go over and climb the middle peak as well. We rapped off the summit, and glissaded down the steep pitch to the saddle...I straight elevened the glissade, and took a pretty good tumble at top speed at the bottom, and Adam linked up some turns, then we took off for the Middle. We left all of the ropes and crap and went uber light weight alpine styleee and were on the top of the second summit in under an hour. The middle peak is a f'n choss heap...but it has a lot better views in our opinions. On our way out Adam displayed more of his graceful tele-stylee-glissading. I havent seen anything quite like it...but he can link nice looking turns with his feet. I usually try to go straight and fast...much like how I snowboard...It usually ends pretty nasty though. We hiked back down to camp, sat around for a bit and then packed up and headed down to the lake. We camped a little lower than the lake where we could have a fire... Pretty standard climb of Olympus...It was my first time back to the area since I first climbed it when I was 11. Making it through the early season route was nice. I dont know how much longer you will be able to do that.

up on Olympus, camped on snowdome the eve of the 4th. Also watched the MOON rise over Olympus. or

nice, I remember you talking about skiing that chute with a raft! You guys must have been a funny looking group to see coming up the trail!

grrrrrr.....that was my plan for this last weekend. with the exeption of descending the white salmon. We even drove all the way up to chair 8 but just couldnt get it together to drop into that basin and risk not having good weather...that is a fucking hainus bushwack...my last attempt on the north face was halted to a stop with a large avy that came down within 50 ft. of myself and my partner that would have swept us all the way down to price lake, the slide was a good half mile wide when it came to a stop down there. I was unable to coax my freind into continuing, which was probably wise...it was the first REALLY warm day of spring and shit was poppin off all over the place. someday I will get up that north face. And back down it.

Climb: E. Goat-W. Ridge/Descent-N.Face Date of Climb: 6/27/2004 Trip Report: Drove up to Glacier Friday night to go climbing with my friend Jake. I got there around 8, and was DRUNK by 11! Then we decided to try and get some sleep, I fell asleep and Jake just stayed up, I woke up at 2 in the morning and drove up to the ski area, Jake works for the ski area so he had a key for the gate, and we drove all the way up to the base of chair 8, to try and climb and snowboard the north face of Shuksan. There was a lot of wind and nasty looking black clouds, and it only took one thought of eating breakfast at the Frosty's Inn to turn back down to Glacier. It was pathetic...we spent all day saturday drinking to try and forget the miserable attempt. Sunday we woke up a little hungover, and knew we had to get out and do SOMETHING! We left Glacier at ten in the morning, after a long night, and drove up Twin Lakes Road until we could see the basin that led up to Goat Mtn. We bushwacked down, and back up the other side until we hit snow, from here it was easy going up the right hand skyline, our descent is in green. The snow was pretty good, a couple of spots had pretty large sun cups, but the boards made quick work of them and it was actually really fun riding. Here is a shot of the cool ledge we had underneath the windlip to strap in on...thats jakes wolf-dog Kione...she will follow us anywhere! And one of Jake and Kione descending the top Col All and all not a bad trip! not what I drove up to Glacier for, but I had more fun Drinking and hanging out with my friends than I would have had making that evil bushwack across the white salmon drainage. Gear Notes: B, Snowboard, O, Food, N, Water, G!

HAH! nice work dmiller! you got the line you wanted.

I had a interesting time on the west ridge last fall, we knew we got a late start, but when the sun set on the final pitch we knew we were in for a interesting descent! We made are way down the east side, and as it got darker, we lined up bumble bee pass with a couple of stars so that we could find our way through the ridge. I might have to get back up there to get some gear! there was a cam stuck on the large slab pitch, but we were too busy worring about the sun going down to spend any time removing it. wonder if its still there, it was black. nice climb