jonthomp

I'll probably be up there Saturday (may head north to something like Tomyhoi instead). I was looking at some recent photos of the Burroughs (from 5-12). Lots of snow and some good lookin' lines. The photos are on the main page at: http://www.turns-all-year.com

I know we were near the chimneys on our decent from the North Face (we descended the White Salmon);however, being unfamiliar with the FC I can't give you much specific other than to say that there is still plenty of snow on the entire mountain. We found a pretty solid crust in most places over the top of deep sugar snow if we happened to break through.

Here are some pics from the N. Face of Shuksan. Some good shots of the route and surrounding terrain. No great action shots though. The TR can be found on the posting from 5/17.

Looks like a typical day in the Cascades. Turns are turns though. I never see many people doing this, but a buddy of mine and I have been dropping over the rock ridge a bit east onto the Paradise Glacier the last couple times we skied up there. We've found some fun terrain all the way into early October. Worth checking out.

More booty to be found by future archeologists--my partner dropped his GPS at 6600' on the N.F. We watched it gain speed and skitter off into oblivion, maybe to stop in one of our boot tracks, but probably to take a swim in Price Lake.

You're still better off placing a rap ring on the webbing. One less thing to go wrong. I too have rapped off slings only (too cheap to leave a biner), but I still wouldn't recommend it. If you're going to do it, it's definitely worth using your own webbing so you know what quality it is in.

Don't! This is a good way to die. The rope stretch as you rap can cut the sling. I wouldn't recommend it.

There are some andesite cliffs near La Grande that have both trad cracks and bolted sport climbs. I will look up the info when I get home (I have the access info in the back of another guidebook). I've heard good things about some of the routes. Not exactly the Elkhorns, but generally the same area. I do know that the Elkhorns have some of the best snow in west with up to 300" some years. Great skiing if you're into that. Don't know much about the climbing though.

Climb: Shuksan-North Face Date of Climb: 5/17/2004 Trip Report: After arriving at the trailhead a bit before 6 PM, we dropped down into the drainage and began the "difficult crosscountry travel" referred to in the guides. Steep and through the trees, but not overly difficult to get to the 5500' bivy site, with snow along the ridge near the end. We tossed around for a few hours in those ultralight bivy sacks and were happy enough to be up and moving around at 2 AM. The mountain had been quiet all night with the exception of two slides that rolled down off of the White Salmon. We were on the North Face and traversing below the rockband around 3:30. What began as good cramponing quickly deteriorated to breakable crust and plunging up to our knees. Beneath the crust was bottomless sugar snow. Needless to say, this soured our moods concerning our chances of success. We kept heading up and thankfully the snow changed as we headed through several old avalanche zones. Once on the upper face the snow was awesome—solid, but not icy. Soon enough we were at the top of the North Shoulder, up over the col, and onto the summit pyramid. We dumped our packs and headed to the summit up the central chute. This proved to be the most challenging part as the snow was approaching icy. While front pointing up the chute was not that difficult, coming down felt dicey. Self-arresting here would likely have been impossible in the event of a fall and as I passed a piton with a biner dangling from it, I was wishing for the rope stashed in my pack at the bottom of the chute so I could rappel instead of downclimb. We then descended the Sulphide to Hell’s Highway across the Upper Curtis Glacier and down the White Salmon. The snow was soft and mushy, but stable. We should have then cut up to the ski area and aimed for the road, but we chose the drainage instead. The only positive thing about that choice was that the devil’s club had not yet leafed out. We were back to the car at about 3:30 with a cooler full of cold beer and home in time for dinner. All in all, a great trip. (some pics to follow) Gear Notes: crampons, ice axe (had pickets, a fluke, and rope, but never used) Approach Notes: road to trees to snow and more snow to brush and more trees

Depends on what you do. I've shaved many miles off approaches by driving an old Soob up snowed in logging roads. Coming out the snowmodilers were looking at me like I was insane. Each of my Soobs has also made it beyond 250K and one is still going semi-strong at 267K. As far sleeping in it, less than desirable, but tolerable. Generally 4wd isn't necessary though.

Awesome endeavor! What a ski line. Sounds like conditions were pretty good? We are heading up to climb the N. Face tonight and tomorrow. Any conditions beta other than what you mentioned on the Price?

Before you rush off and buy a second set of cams. You might want to consider the other options. Yeah, I married a woman who had her own set of flex cams to go with my rigid ones. Not the reason I married her, but a nice added bonus.

True you need some fiddling room to work with passive gear, but I disagree on leaving them at home. Nuts in many situations are easier to place (sometimes the only placement), are light, and offer very secure pro if placed correctly. Now if you are just talking about hexes, sure leave them behind. There is plenty of better pro. Nuts, though, bring em'.

Just thought I'd throw these pics up. This was back in mid-April taken by a coworker during afterwork playtime on Pilchuck. The snow was soft and a bit mushy, but fun nonetheless. For those that haven't skied the SE gully off the summit it's a worthwhile albeit short outing. Good for yo-yoing and there are many other lines to explore, though conditions are getting thin. Have done it two times since and the increasing number of cracks and holes on the lower slopes are starting to make for some interesting, last-minute evasive turns. Hit it soon before it's all gone for the year.

Thanks. Anyone else want to throw in their two cents and speculate with me? Last time I hit the snow (May 2nd) it was soft in some places (west slopes) and pretty consolidated and solid (north to northeast slopes), though I was skiing much lower than Shuksan. Since then, it has done some raining (up to at least 8000'), done some snowing (6-12" it seems), and seen some sunshine which is predicted to continue (at least partially) through the weekend. Anyone care to speculate on what kind of snow conditions this will result in? New, though not too deep snow over a solid rain crust making for an enjoyable, speedy climb? A breakable crust with plunge to your waist snow, making it slow, miserable, and even dangerous? Somewhere in between? Anyone care to throw in their or ?

The gendarme makes the N. Ridge an awesome route, one of the finest I've ever done. Tieton River has great cracks of all sizes and they are all stacked one next to the other so lots of pitches can be done in a day. Nice riverside camping as well. In addition to laybacking the first pitch on the gendarme, I found I could layback and sidepull my way through the widest part of the second pitch taking advantage of my face climbing skills and avoiding my lack of off width skills . NW corner on N. Early Winter Spire would also be good prep. Shorter, but in the same difficulty zone, 5.9. You can finish that and run up the west face also. Makes a fun day and the 5.11 rating only counts for a couple, well-protected moves.

Looking for any snow conditions reports from up there or anywhere in the vicinity. Anybody been up there this week that can shed some light?

I'll keep your contact info. I teach and am off through the summer beginning June 23rd. I have been off technical rock climbing for awhile, but am itching to reacquaint myself. Sounds like we lead at about the same level.

Thanks for the info. Looks like the best bet is to head up and see. If nothing else we can plop down on a rock and pass the scotch back and forth.

If we can't climb at least we can drink.

Am planning on climbing the N. Face of Shuksan this Friday and Saturday (May 14/15) and am looking for any info on recent snow conditions. Anyone been in the area over this past weekend or within the last week? In general what are people finding out there? We're trying to move light and fast so soft snow could be problematic.

Looks like a cool crag. Where is it? Is it open to the public? If so, any beta on getting there. In another month I'm off for the summer and might try to join for some boozin' and craggin'.