wfinley

A few years ago at Sqamish we ran into some guy named Bob from Quebec. He slept in his storage unit, spent his nights doing mushrooms and his days slowly ticking off the big aid routes in the Chief. He showed us which window you could jimmy to break into the rec. center after hours for free showers, how to catch rabbits for dinner at the campground across from the chief and which dumpster had the best bagels in town. I doubt it's the same Bob but he was a character!

Insulated pants are one of those things you can get by without... but once you get them you wonder why you didn't buy them ten years ago. I walk the dog in them everynight!!!!

In essence it's the same arguements hashed and rehashed regarding globalization. In Alaska there are communities that have made a concerted effort to disallow cruise-ships docking in their towns - and towns that allow it typically are split 50/50 regarding community support. For every business owner selling trinkets and welcoming tourist, there is a local fisherman who wishes they'd all go home.

Here's a better analogy: Joe Middleclass and his pals wants a cultural experience so he grabs his crash pad and drives daddy's 2005 Pathfinder down to the projects. He then proceeds to rip it up on manky apartment buildings while his buddies document the adventure while making sure that every frame features at least one barefoot African American kid or teenage mother. They then give high fives all around, jump back in the Pathfinder and return to the suburbs with a story to share with all. How is this 'transmitting knowledge and ideas across cultural boundaries'?

That's the truth! It's the same with film... be it trustafarians sending boulder problems or snowboarders catching air. After a while everyone starts looking like that cute young couple on the cover of the REI catalog:

True.. it does make it more exotic. However - people as props is exactly what I'm talking about and it is a return to the past. A man in full native garb sitting around with a bunch of climbers is no different than John Ford's depiction of the drunk chiefs in his classic westerns or Kipling's depiction of Indian culture. People are not props -- and depicting people as props is derogatory. A culturally sensitive portrayal of people and customs is a bonus to any slideshow or book you read about adventures... however the key word is sensitive.

You know as well as I do that anytime a woman athlete poses nude (or near nude) controversy ensues. Whether you believe that nude photography empowers or belittles women doesn't really matter as there will be dozens willing to argue against you. Regarding the comment about National Geographic publishing such pictures -- NG stopped publishing pix that depicted the civilized white vs non civilized non-white years ago. Unlike the legendary Fiji articles they used to publish when I was a child (the ones my mother would hide) today NG staff goes out of their way to show respect to other cultures. Corey Rich takes great photos -- but many of those depicted in his portfolio would spark controversy if, for example, the Java native was replaced with a Native American. Perhaps I'm misreading his photographs (or reading to much into them)... but when a pic like the snowboard pic is on the cover of Couloir I ask myself what the editors were trying to convey.

His Kasha Rigby shot has spawned pages and pages of gender debate on other forums! One thing I have noted about his photos in the past is his justoposition of white adventurers next to dark 'natives'. For example the following pix: and Perhaps I'm being overly PC but in a way I find these photos mildly offensive. Sure it's all in good fun as to say "these worthy european adventurers battled the jungle and communed with these natives" but having grown up in India I can say with certainty that the last thing a Hindu mystic wants is to pose in a catalog shot with some white guy bouldering. It's no different that those pics we used to see of the 1950's family posing with the Cherokee chiefs in full ceremony regalia.

We had one of these on our Blackburn trip this spring and got hit hard by a storm while at our exposed highcamp. We had sustained high winds and heavy snow for 12 solid hours. I wasn't in the Firstlight but those who were had no problems other than snow working its way under the vestibule and getting packed inbetween the vestibule and tent. I was pretty impressed with it.

Thanks all. It wasn't a very bad bend (btm 2 cm bent sideways maybe 3/4 cm) but I think I'll play it safe anyways.

I've been watching these reports as well. We were hoping to head there for Sept / Oct of '06 but are beginning to get second thoughts. Anyone else planning a fall trip there?

I wasn't paying attention this past weekend and drove my (BD Stinger) pick into thin ice and managed to bend the pick on the rock underneath. The pick wasn't bent too badly -- and I was able to bend it back straight by stuffing it in a crack and twisting the tool. My question is... how much did I weaken the pick when I did this? Should I go ahead and replace the pick now... or hold off and see if it gives me trouble (and carry a spare one with me)?

People keep talking about these taun-taun's. I've never seen one at REI - what section are they in? My old college roommate used to make his own climbing packs. He didn't save any money by making them but they were very cool.

Yes - the whippets are hard to find.... but if you need one then nothing else will work (save a tool duct taped to a ski pole). They sell them as a whole piece now... which is best b/c eventually one loses or breaks a fliplock pole. Here's my $.02 on the grivel... it's a good concept but it needs some work. They sell it saying it can attach to any pole but the truth is you have to really tweak it to make it stick. My ski buddy has his clamped on with a pipe clamp. The rivet that holds the blade is, in my opinion, weak and would collpase or break in the event of a hard fall. It looks hip but feels like a plastic toy. The big up side is that the blade can fold in - thus saving you from the fate of the supposed dude who self impaled on a whippet. However... does anyone really know someone who has done this? And if you take a tumble capable of impaling wouldn't your Grivel blade be out anyways?

Area 1002 s was not "specifically set aside an area for oil exploration". Section 1020 does not state that the area is open for development, but instead that it is open for study. There is a big difference between these two readings. The opening paragraph of Section 1002 states: The purpose of this section is to provide for a comprehensive and continuing inventory and assessment of the fish and wildlife resources of the coastal plain of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge; an analysis of the impacts of oil and gas exploration, development, and production, and to authorize exploratory activity within the coastal plain in a manner that avoids significant adverse effects on the fish and wildlife and other resources. (http://arctic.fws.gov/anilcabits.htm) This is one of the last great wilderness areas on earth. Virtually every visit to the refuge takes you through the Coastal Plain - thus oil development won't necessarily be in the middle of nowhere - but instead in one of the most biologically diverse areas in the world that hundreds of people enjoy every year. If we take it away it's gone forever. To quote President Carter, "We cannot drill our way to energy security or lower gasoline prices as long as our nation sits on just 3 percent of world oil reserves yet accounts for 25 percent of all oil consumption... The pathway to a better, more sustainable energy future does not wind through the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge." PS - Here are more links: Aurora Wilderness Project http://www.auroraeducationproject.org/Aurora%20wilderness%20home.html Being Caribou http://www.beingcaribou.com/

The biggest difference between the tribes is that the village of Kaktovik owns the land directly around Kaktovik thus they stand to make alot of money. The Gwich'in tribe relies on the caribou herd for subsistence. They won't make any money off the deal and if the caribou herd dwindles their lifestyle will as well. We flew with Kirk / Coyote Air out of Coldfoot. Walt no longer flies (he's too old and has crashed too many planes) but he has someone working for him now.

Again these reports are pretty subjective. Drilling proponents will cite increased numbers as evidence caribou are not disturbed. Opponents will counter and say that caribou numbers were weakened by poor weather when the initial counts took place before development - and they will likewise offer data showing that the breeding grounds have shifted away from drilling sites (http://magazine.audubon.org/features0109/arctic.html). Polar bear numbers are rapidly decreasing with many scientist saying that they will be extinct within 100 years. However... the crux of the argument isn't about science - it's about aesthetics. A drilling operation in the Arctic Refuge wouldn't necessarily drive caribou to extinction (polar bears are already doomed due to the melting polar ice cap) - but it would take away the aura of wilderness. Think of it in the same way that a tram up Mt. Rainier wouldn't really hurt the mountain but would most likely disturb visitors.

Hijacking is alright - in case you didn't notice the trip report is from 2004 so my intentions were fairly obvious. To answer your questions -- Arctic Power is directly funded by the State of Alaska. Since 1992 they have received about $9 million in funding which they have used for lobbying efforts in Washington. The paragraph you posted is correct in describing the boundaries of section 1002 - as well as the intentions. However they take a lot of liberties when they describe the area as "flat and barren with no trees, hills, or mountains...and practically void of life." This barren plain is the calving grounds of the 150,00+ Porcupine caribou herd, nesting grounds to millions of birds and denning territory of a dwindling polar bear population. To state that it's a barren wasteland because of the migratory nature of northern animals is a pretty weak argument. The second point is the footprint. Arctic Power (and Gale Norton) like to point out that this foot print will be only 2000 acres - however they are only telling a half truth. Here's a great factoid often pointed out: "The 12-lane-wide New Jersey Turnpike, which stretches more than 100 miles across the state, covers only 1,773 acres." Supporting infrastructure for development would have to stretch across the coastal plain. Visit this page (http://www.inforain.org/maparchive/anwr_2.htm) to see a speculative development scenario of this "footprint". Below are some good links. Carter's column in particular is an excellent piece. I saw him speak a few years ago and found him to be an incredible intelligent man. Arctic Folly By Jimmy Carter http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/09/12/AR2005091201347.html History of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge http://www.alaskawild.org/campaigns_arctic_history.html In short I would say the only person jumping the bandwagon is Senator Stevens. The prospect of developing ANWR should be addressed as an open and intelligent debate - not hidden within a defense spending bill.

Just a quick note. ANWR.org is a site owned and operated by Arctic Power - a pro-drilling lobby group funded by the Alaska Legislature. They used to receive approximately $3 million a year (has since been cut to $1 million) to lobby for drilling in the Refuge. Thus take the information on their site with a grain of salt and consider reading other sources.

Below are pictures from a float trip down the Hula Hula River in the Arctic Refuge from a trip in 2004. We went for 10 days in early July. We spent 7 days on the river and 3 days climbing - including a climb of Mt Michelson - the 4th highest peak in the Brooks Range. The route up Michelson was a moderate couloir that pretty much started right off the glacier. We carried a rope and screw but never used them (although we did rope up on the glacier) For those of you who are unaware, our own (I live in Alaska) Ted Stevens recently moved the ANWR provision from the Budget Bill and attached it to the Defense Bill. This was done because the ANWR bill cannot gain enough support on it's own - thus Steven's is resorting to other tactics to push his own agenda. The Defense Bill was approved by the House this morning and is now being debated in the Senate. For those of you who haven't been to the Arctic Refuge I encourage you to go. The climbing is excellent, the boating superb, the hiking out of this world - and I hear the ski touring is amazing as well. Please call your Senator and ask them to remove the ANWR provision from the Defense Bill. ANWR needs to be debated openly and honestly. More pictures are here: http://www.couloirgraphics.com/images/misc/ANWR/index.htm Here's a link to a map of our trip. Arctic Poppies near our put in point. Looking north down the the Hula Hula Valley. Floating down the Hula Hula. Camp II along the Hula Hula. Leaving our High Camp enroute to climb Mt Michelson. Route up Mt Michelson. Summit of Mt Michelson. Another summit shot Looking south up the Hula Hula Valley from Camp III. Looking north onto the coastal plain (site of proposed development) Rafters and Musk Ox Skull a few miles from the Arctic Ocean.

Someone posted this link on CC a couple weeks ago. It has good stuff about bivy gear: http://www.psychovertical.com/?bivibags Personally I'd also rather bring along a taun-taun but the freakin' bears love them up here. I've developed a list but in reality the items on that list are usually sitting on the couch where I forgot them. Thus I spend my nights playing the "I wish I had remembered to bring" game!

Hmmm... noticed the initial post was misspelled. Was it supposed to Wolverine sittings or Wolverine sightings?

Fayetteville West (by gawd) Virginian (home of the New River Gorge) - early 90s - me and my climbing buds finally get up the nerve to hit up the bar under Sheeri's Beer City. I had just turned 21 the week previous and the night of my birthday had celebrated with a climbing buddy more interested in climbing then drinking (what's up with that?) by lying down in the dirt at dark to rest up for a day of crack. (Incidentally this same guy just joined CC.com and out of the blue just emailed me - which is cool!) Anyways... a week later I'm back with climbing buddies more interested in drinking then climbing and we get up the nerve to enter the bar to properly celebrate my birthday. So we walk down the steps to the basement bar. There is a mirror on the door and a buzzer with a handwritten "Ring" sign thumb tacked above it. We ring the buzzer and the entire place instantly goes silent. A second later the door is buzzed open and we discover the mirror is actually a 2 way and everyone in the bar is checking us out. We walk over to the door with 30 pairs of redneck eyes on our back as we calmly order a beer. After a while everyone goes back to their business and we're left alone checking out the crowd. Just then a redneck appears before us; he is disheveled and grossly drunk and leans over and says: "Hey boys... do ourselves a favor and get out before last call." We finished our beer and left to go fall asleep in the dirt.

I heard it was a badger in the outhousae at the campground near Athabasca Glacier... some poor chap sat down on the can and it came ripping out. Always wondered if it was true or not but I've hesitated to ask! Regardless... Now I always carry my headlamp into the outhouse and peer inside before sitting down.

That ice formation photo is very cool. It has an erotic O'Keefe feel. Here are my runner ups... High camp on Mt. Blackburn's N. Ridge Another view of the same camp (no zoom). Skiing on False Denmark, Scandanavia Glacier, Chugach. Shockley's Ceiling, Gunks, NY.