KaskadskyjKozak

Fixed it Your fix is flawed; Kevbone has no brain.

Fixed that for you!

Ron Paul would do nothing. Go Ron Paul!

Bill - +1 on what OlyClimber said - thanks a bunch for fucking up the format with your stupid pic

What would Eddie Van Halen do?

Drink more tequila

It is worth the drive if you stay a few days. Plus you can car camp and enjoy the adult beverage of choice along with grilled brats/burgers/etc. after each day's effort.

Hey Buckaroo - glad you liked the photos! This climb was done first just a few years ago and the TR posted right here on cc.com. Since then it has become quite popular.

Thanks for the update Longshanks. My partner Dwayne actually mentioned that that dihedral looked like it could be a good go.

We went underneath the right side of the roof. I believe I saw that mentioned in a description of the route somewhere.

Trip: Liberty Bell - Beckey Route Date: 9/2/2012 Trip Report: A few years ago I attempted Liberty Bell and Concord Tower on a cool September day (midweek). This weekend we decided to roll the dice on the crowds on a colder Labor Day weekend. Again, I just got half of my cake... but I did get a Beckey sighting in! It was tough to get moving at 5 am on Sunday after our previous day's work and we did not get on the trail until 6:30 am. Unfortunately it was not early enough as we were the second party of 4 on the Beckey Route. We waited a bit for the first party to clear, and headed up at 10 am, making "OK" time. The temps were absolutely frigid at the col - I'd say near freezing with wind chill. We all had all our layers on for the first pitch. A third party arrived at the col right after us and decided to hit Concord Tower first instead. They looked to be in pain in the shade, blowing on their fingers as they climb up almost in parallel with us. The last time I climbed this route, I led the first and third pitches, so I let DR lead these and did the 2nd. AC and JP paired up for this climb and they went ahead of us, with AC also leading the 2nd pitch. On the hike out we ran into a party of 4 - three very young folks and Fred himself. They were headed up to camp below NEWS and climb it in the morning. Fred forgot his helmet so my friend JP lent him his. :-) DR leads out on the first pitch: AC styles the awkward chimney at the start of the 2nd pitch: AC follows above the finger traverse on the 3rd pitch. She opted for the crack on the right above the piton instead: DR soloing the friction slab: Obligatory summit p0rn money shot: KK, JP, and AC scrambling down from the summit: I love this view: At the rap bolts: Gear Notes: Small to mid alpine rack up to 3". Approach Notes: Dry.

Trip: Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arête Date: 9/1/2012 Trip Report: This weekend I opted to try for Spontanaity Arête. On my last attempt (also over Labor Day Weekend) we had trouble with rain and snow and bailed at the base of the final pitch. This time we had cold and wind but no hydrological issues and summited. My partners for the trip were JP, DR, and AC. AC and I roped up together - she took the odd-numbered pitches and I the even. This was AC's second alpine rock lead (the first being the Tooth). We all agreed that the whole route is awesome with just one "weak" pitch (the 5th). We decided to do the optional seventh pitch - a glorious 5.7 3" crack. Our only complaint was that this pitch was too short! Pictures follow. AC scrambling on the approach: Ascending the third(?) fixed line: View up the first pitch. Just out of view is a nice hand crack with some 5.7 moves: The 5.7 roof (pitch 2). I led this and found it to be one of the best and most fun: This is where we started the third pitch. I believe we free solo'd part of the pitch before we got blocked by some exposed moves and roped up again: AC on pitch 5. Pitch 6 is visible at the top of the screen. This was the only "lame" pitch (all 5.easy): AC starts up the glorious 3" crack on the final pitch: AC and DR join me on the final summit scramble. There is some spicy 4th class up here. JP opted to stay about 20 feet below on safer ground: Mountain p0rn from the summit: Victory! AC all smiles as we rap the upper route and avoid the shitty gully as long as possible: Gear Notes: Small to mid-size alpine rack up to 3" Approach Notes: Dry.

Cool! And it was nice to run into you guys at Lone Fir after your climb.

Very cool! Thanks for posting TRs for stuff off the beaten path!

Where have all the good times gone?

It's been a long time since we climbed together, waterboy. We miss you up here in the PNW

Let me know when you do ;-)

will you be playing "Stay Frosty", by any chance?

Because it's out of reach for most of us mere mortals. Also, some of us don't find that "fun".

Screw that... let's just go back!

your image links don't work

what the fuck are you talking about? We hit a comet with a spacecraft and took pictures of the explosion so we could find out what was inside. We fucking sky-craned a rover onto mars and it has a laser gun and shit. what's wrong with you boy? robots n' probes n' droids are aid, dood So, they are right up your alley then, no?

Not always easy to get buy in from everyone.

The glacier looked very crevassed that way. We were not too excited about trying it. Also, we thought weather was coming in (freezing level dropping from 12K to 8500 feet and chance of showers after midnight). That coupled with navigating those crevasses prompted us to retreat to the Eldo camp on Sunday rather than stay a second night. Also, one partner did not want to get home late Monday and it is why we had a 3-day trip not a 2-day trip.

Ah, the NW ridge. Yeah, that was not what we came to do. Maybe I will do the NW ridge some day instead. I am not too keen to return to the scene of a disaster any time soon.