KaskadskyjKozak

I was planning on doing this climb this weekend. Thank you for saving me a turnaround. Just curious what it would take to get into and out of the moat? Is it even doable? Rappel? Ice tool? Or just too shitty to even try?

and you can suck Hillary's

Nope

That link fails. Google 404 error

It's not done often, but you can find beta on it. Why, you interested? The Douglas or Banded glaciers are a bit more adventurous but totally doable.

There was no register on Logan either

Mountain House produces some epic farts as well. I swear my shit has looked positively radioactive after two days of Mountain House, Shot Blocks and GORP.

Not sure. Ragged Ridge is in the background. The peak you are referring to may be Arriva? Someone else might know for sure.

LOL.

I keep drinking water out of streams and have only had explosive diarrheah once after a trip... giardia? maybe (it was the creek below Thomson that I drank from) I chugged water out of a stream on the descent below Junction camp. Still no signs of the shits. Fingers crossed!

I agree on all points. I have to say that this year I was at the best camp site (Itswoot) and the best summit for views! I'm not getting any younger. Time to GIFD!

Slim Jim farts are even worse.

Trip: Logan - Fremont Glacier Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: I've always wanted to climb Logan, but I've never wanted to dedicate 4 days to this remote peak. I tried it once, unsuccessfully: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=885143. Since then, I've not had the heart to try the Douglas again, and I've held out hope that the road from Stehekin would be extended past High Bridge - but, alas. I had hoped to climb Buckner last weekend but with my view of the route from afar on the Inspiration Glacier recently (http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1150251) I thought it might be a bit melted out and Logan came to mind. Seeing as how I still didn't want to dedicate 4 days to the climb, and I'm in decent shape now... I said fuck it and went for it in 3 days. On day 1 we hiked in to Thunder Basin Stock Camp. Yes, you heard that right. That's all we could get at the Marblemount RS and we were lucky they let us stay there. The hike was long, hot, and painful. We left the trail head at 10:15 and were in the middle of the hottest part of the day. I don't do well in the heat and it showed. Cars to camp took 10 hours. We set alarms for ~5am and continued up the trail. The trail is easy to follow up to the flat spot at about 5800' and totally snow free. We found the climber's trail traversing up towards point 7760 (and 8248) and it was easy to follow up to the sandy gully. Buckner - next time, bitch! View of the traverse (on descent): We crossed several streams en route. Most were easy but two were a bit nasty. The first required us to do a brief excursion up hill to a safer spot. It involved some delicious 3rd class dirt with a veggie belay. The second was into and out of a deep gash in the hill side. The trail was thin and exposed here. Don't fall or you will get a lot of metal in your ankles for your trouble. We encountered a snow patch or three as we headed towards point 7760, and avoided those we could. Eventually we hit snow, and the toe of the Fremont glacier. The glacier itself is smooth as a baby's butt. We had hauled all the accoutrements for glacier travel this far, so we roped up for shits and giggles and headed up to the low point in the ridge. Here we discovered that the hogsback was purely vestigial, and moated badly with poor run out. So, we unroped. Logical, LOL. We carefully climbed it, gingerly stepping where the snow was thinnest and ascended a heinous gully with kitty litter over shit-rock. The hogsback (on descent): A cool motherfucking swale near the top of the Fremont: This slope mellowed but remained shitty to the notch. From here we crossed to the E side and the ledges were quite reasonable and as advertised, class 3. We hit one 4th class move, which made us scratch our heads and pucker our sphincters. It was not so bad in retrospect. We then ascended talus (little snow here!) to a notch and then climb a very nice class 3-4 bit to the summit. Unfortunately we only found a cairn and no register, so I have no idea what kind of traffic Logan has been seeing. Views were spectacular - a 360 degree mountain porn money shot. I had brought a light rack and we had our ropes from the glacier but never used them on the rock. We savored the summit then headed down without incident. Thanks to copious breaks up and down, we got to camp right at dusk. Here is one view we were treated to: The hike out was uneventful. The cool temps were a sharp but pleasant contrast to the sauna we waded through two days earlier.

5 years in a row I've set aside days to do this climb and every year weather does not cooperate. I'm jealous! Congrats!

The Sisters, maybe?

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No problem. Now that I think about it you could simulclimb that ridge with a 30m, or you could do it in three pitches if need be. Good luck!

We needed a 60 m for the rappel. a 40m would definitely work for the pitches, not sure about a 30. If you downclimb the first pitch/snow, then yes a 30 m would suffice

I've been up the Eldorado glacier around 7 times so I was pretty confident that it would be a no brainer. Like I said, although there was a wide boot path, it was a bit tricky to follow going down the first few hundred feet (then I hit the bottom of the cloud layer). My partner realized his mistake but thought it best to follow a boot path off the glacier. Personally, I think I would have *ascended* back to the flats and moved back onto the correct track. It was actually quite pleasant sitting up ther at night with the clouds moving through, stars peaking out, and a >1/2 moon rising and moving along the sky. Fortunately i know that boulder field like the back of my hand and guided us out fairly easily with just one issue at the vertical rock step near the bottom.

I ran into the rails leading out to the cliff when I climbed Horseshoe a couple of years ago. Very cool. The entrance to the mine is buried under rocks now though. Cool link to the story, Tom!

Thanks. Still, I'm bummed about Goode. You guys did it at the right time.

Trip: Dorado Needle - NW Ridge Date: 7/14/2016 Trip Report: Four years in a row I got time off from work and lined up a climbing partner to climb Goode. Every year it's been shutdown due to weather. This year one of my climbing partners flippantly replied "Julyuary" - as if that is a normal term for Seattle weather - where summer is supposed to start July 5. Fuck. Of the six days I had open to climb this week, only one had decent weather so I decided to give Dorado Needle a go - in one push. I figured that since I'm no speed demon this would take me about 18 hours car to car. Shenanigans ensued. It took 23 hours. I met my buddy Scott at Prost at 4:30 or so Wed and we headed to the Eldo TH. Up at 3 am, moving by 3:45. We initially made decent time - 3:15 to the ridge, 4:45 to the Eldo base camp/rock island. We solo'd up to this point then roped up. I think it was under 8 hours to the base of the climbing route. Scott at the rock island (7500'). Dorado, with her legs spread wide: My route description said to start at a notch at the top of the glacier. Which I did, ignoring an obvious boot path up a moderately steep snow slope just to climber's left. Turns out that was the route (pitch one is under snow right now), and we did a viable variation adding a couple pitches (short), but we knew we weren't on the proper route and that slowed us up a bit. The climbing went well from here, but the weather came in. We were in a cloud and the temps dropped quite a bit. By the time we finished the climb it was below 40 with windchill. Summit shot: With around 6500K gain and 15 hours on the day already, we were already getting fatigued when we got to the Eldo camp. I was cold while my partner was still rearranging his pack. He's an ultra marathoner, avid cyclists, and generally faster than me, so I opted to head out first - he agreed. We both figured he'd catch me soon (and he had the filter that I needed for water), so I started down. Clouds were blowing in and it was a little tricky to follow the boot path after crossing the flats, but I managed. The clouds cleared here and there and were totally gone below 6500' Weather sets in: Just above the gully crossing: Unfortunately Scott somehow picked up a different boot path and ended up in heavily crevassed terrain (we were both soloing down). He opted to follow that path down and off the glacier since he could not see and did not want to stumble onto any cracks. This put him way off course. As I waited and the sun set, I picked up Scott's headlamp flashing and set mine to flash as well He saw it and made his way towards me at the gully that drops into the Roush. It took 2 hours to get to me and it was almost 11pm. We then navigated down in the dark and add 4 hours to the day more. Good times. Scott's GPS track: Gear Notes: Standard glacier travel gear, small alpine rack. Approach Notes: No snow until the upper basin below the ridge crossing. Muddy.

Tear down that wall!

We chose it because it is the recommended approach in Blake Herrington's new Cascades Rock book. I think it's shorter and easier, except for the ferry ride. But that was rather enjoyable. You've come a long way from dry-humping tents, Carl!

Sometimes folks (esp. newer climbers or conservative ones) rope up "just in case" then end up deciding conditions don't warrant pro. Then it's a matter of being too lazy to untie. I did that on the zipper the first time I climbed it.