KaskadskyjKozak

it's all Bush's fault

Love Jack Mountain. Such a cool scramble!

that's funny 800 feet of shit. that's the price of admission. Storm King wasn't gonna spread her legs for free.

I need to bag this fucker. Gawd the Nordwand looks fun!!!!!!

Only the talus up through the gully - about 800 feet of it. Other than that it was quite enjoyable!

Trip: Storm King - Californication Date: 8/14/2016 Trip Report: NH, TBV and I climbed Storm King this past weekend. Due to late time route planning changes we fell a bit short of trying to add in Goode, but that's OK. I still want to climb the NE buttress and who knows, maybe 6th times a charm... or 7th... or 20th. We arrived in Stehekin on the morning express, loaded up at the bakery with gut bombs, and stashed beers at High Bridge. Systems Go! The forecast was for 95 degrees in Stehekin, but it felt a bit cooler. We made it up to Bridge Creek in under 2 hours and made quick progress to Park Creek. However, the hill side switchbacks up to Two Mile camp proved a bit more oppressive and hellacious... and arrived at the log bridge at 5:20. Back of the envelope computations yielded an unsatisfactory result: should we stop for 20-30 minutes to refill on water and continue on up to the 7400' camp, it would require at least 4 hours and that would be both unpleasant and possibly pointless - some rest would be required to tag both summits in a day and move camp. so we opted for a more relaxing single peak summit. Sunday involved headlamps in the cool morning. Time to 7400' was 4 hours with fresh legs and light packs, so we called it right. The "cairn" marking the climber's "trail" was blackened and not much of a marker. The Goode fire has done a number on the section of trail where you head uphill and stays that way until well over 5000' foot elevation. There's a lot of ash and blackened dead fall. Not sure how well this will hold upf or the next few years. But for now it's OK and you can walk wherever you want - it's fucking Mordor up there. At 7400' we refilled on water and rested. It was getting warmer at this point. Then it was on up to the summit and back to camp, taking our time, and using up all the daylight hours. Leaving the trail: Scorched earth above the Park Creek Pass trail: TBVisitor scrambling just below the 7400' basin: Traverse from 7400' basin to the Hall of the Mountain King: Embrace the choss: Storm King summit blocks: \m/ KK \m/ So satisfying to look over at this peak and finally say "I was there": Opposite sentiment from above: TangyBV rappels the summit block: Paradise: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet, rope and harness to rappel the summit. Approach Notes: Mordor.

One of my favorite "surprise" Bulgers. I thoroughly enjoyed this one. Congrats!

For custer you follow the least shitty line in a pile of dog-shit-choss

are permits self-register? We did it once - registered at sedro wooley and they forwarded it to marblemount for some obscure reason. a week later I get a call from Marblemount asking if I got off the mountain or not. WTF? I asked why the permit was in marblemount and they said that's the jurisdiction for the area. Other time I was there... did not bother with a permit.

I'm on board with Hunter S on this one. 'Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow!"'

LOL. Love the vintage pic though. I've seen it here before. Getting old(er) sucks.

Having been through the cirque headwall a couple times, I'd steer you towards the brushy ramp on the far right. It's by far the easiest penetration of the cliff band, and while we found a happy scrambling route up I think we did one rappel on the way down. The brush is deep but neither thorny nor recalcitrant slide alder, so it's pretty straight forward. This puts you up on the right side of Thunder Peak, just contour around the toe of the NE Buttress on that peak to access the Douglas Glacier. I think there is a far left alternative too, though I've never been that way. As an aside, that NE Buttress on Thunder is a good objective. The FA actually went to Lowell Skoog, but we made two forays onto it. First time around with light rack and mountain boots, we got to the first tower rap and realized we weren't equipped. Second time we got to the next rap and shattered rock ahead dissuaded us, so we bailed to the Douglas and retreated. Lowell says the upper wall isn't so bad, and the whole route is probably IV 5.8 or 5.9. Totally misreported in the Green Beckey as the SW Buttress with no info. I doubt the route has seen a second ascent, anyone who wants more beta should PM me and I'm sure I can get you up the thing, it's a pretty great objective. Ignore the man smoking while playing air guitar on his ice axe wearing an inflatable dinosaur, the NE Buttress of Thunder Peak is the left hand skyline. FYI, we called it the Bolo Buttress since we wore Bolo Ties for the entire time on both outings. glory days

any moat issues getting from snow to rock on easy mox?

I was disappointed. I had hoped Choss Dog Millionaires had left one of their playing cards up there. After that 3 day sausage party even a tiny pic of female flesh would have been most welcome!

it's such a beautiful area. I may need to repeat by a different route (douglas or banded)

Yep, that's what we climbed and called the summit. There's a cairn on top There's no register that we could find. I was surprised that some call this last bit class 4. It seemed like regular old class 3 to me

I was planning on doing this climb this weekend. Thank you for saving me a turnaround. Just curious what it would take to get into and out of the moat? Is it even doable? Rappel? Ice tool? Or just too shitty to even try?

and you can suck Hillary's

Nope

That link fails. Google 404 error

It's not done often, but you can find beta on it. Why, you interested? The Douglas or Banded glaciers are a bit more adventurous but totally doable.

There was no register on Logan either

Mountain House produces some epic farts as well. I swear my shit has looked positively radioactive after two days of Mountain House, Shot Blocks and GORP.

Not sure. Ragged Ridge is in the background. The peak you are referring to may be Arriva? Someone else might know for sure.

LOL.