KaskadskyjKozak

For custer you follow the least shitty line in a pile of dog-shit-choss

are permits self-register? We did it once - registered at sedro wooley and they forwarded it to marblemount for some obscure reason. a week later I get a call from Marblemount asking if I got off the mountain or not. WTF? I asked why the permit was in marblemount and they said that's the jurisdiction for the area. Other time I was there... did not bother with a permit.

I'm on board with Hunter S on this one. 'Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow!"'

LOL. Love the vintage pic though. I've seen it here before. Getting old(er) sucks.

Having been through the cirque headwall a couple times, I'd steer you towards the brushy ramp on the far right. It's by far the easiest penetration of the cliff band, and while we found a happy scrambling route up I think we did one rappel on the way down. The brush is deep but neither thorny nor recalcitrant slide alder, so it's pretty straight forward. This puts you up on the right side of Thunder Peak, just contour around the toe of the NE Buttress on that peak to access the Douglas Glacier. I think there is a far left alternative too, though I've never been that way. As an aside, that NE Buttress on Thunder is a good objective. The FA actually went to Lowell Skoog, but we made two forays onto it. First time around with light rack and mountain boots, we got to the first tower rap and realized we weren't equipped. Second time we got to the next rap and shattered rock ahead dissuaded us, so we bailed to the Douglas and retreated. Lowell says the upper wall isn't so bad, and the whole route is probably IV 5.8 or 5.9. Totally misreported in the Green Beckey as the SW Buttress with no info. I doubt the route has seen a second ascent, anyone who wants more beta should PM me and I'm sure I can get you up the thing, it's a pretty great objective. Ignore the man smoking while playing air guitar on his ice axe wearing an inflatable dinosaur, the NE Buttress of Thunder Peak is the left hand skyline. FYI, we called it the Bolo Buttress since we wore Bolo Ties for the entire time on both outings. glory days

any moat issues getting from snow to rock on easy mox?

I was disappointed. I had hoped Choss Dog Millionaires had left one of their playing cards up there. After that 3 day sausage party even a tiny pic of female flesh would have been most welcome!

it's such a beautiful area. I may need to repeat by a different route (douglas or banded)

Yep, that's what we climbed and called the summit. There's a cairn on top There's no register that we could find. I was surprised that some call this last bit class 4. It seemed like regular old class 3 to me

I was planning on doing this climb this weekend. Thank you for saving me a turnaround. Just curious what it would take to get into and out of the moat? Is it even doable? Rappel? Ice tool? Or just too shitty to even try?

and you can suck Hillary's

Nope

That link fails. Google 404 error

It's not done often, but you can find beta on it. Why, you interested? The Douglas or Banded glaciers are a bit more adventurous but totally doable.

There was no register on Logan either

Mountain House produces some epic farts as well. I swear my shit has looked positively radioactive after two days of Mountain House, Shot Blocks and GORP.

Not sure. Ragged Ridge is in the background. The peak you are referring to may be Arriva? Someone else might know for sure.

LOL.

I keep drinking water out of streams and have only had explosive diarrheah once after a trip... giardia? maybe (it was the creek below Thomson that I drank from) I chugged water out of a stream on the descent below Junction camp. Still no signs of the shits. Fingers crossed!

I agree on all points. I have to say that this year I was at the best camp site (Itswoot) and the best summit for views! I'm not getting any younger. Time to GIFD!

Slim Jim farts are even worse.

Trip: Logan - Fremont Glacier Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: I've always wanted to climb Logan, but I've never wanted to dedicate 4 days to this remote peak. I tried it once, unsuccessfully: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=885143. Since then, I've not had the heart to try the Douglas again, and I've held out hope that the road from Stehekin would be extended past High Bridge - but, alas. I had hoped to climb Buckner last weekend but with my view of the route from afar on the Inspiration Glacier recently (http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1150251) I thought it might be a bit melted out and Logan came to mind. Seeing as how I still didn't want to dedicate 4 days to the climb, and I'm in decent shape now... I said fuck it and went for it in 3 days. On day 1 we hiked in to Thunder Basin Stock Camp. Yes, you heard that right. That's all we could get at the Marblemount RS and we were lucky they let us stay there. The hike was long, hot, and painful. We left the trail head at 10:15 and were in the middle of the hottest part of the day. I don't do well in the heat and it showed. Cars to camp took 10 hours. We set alarms for ~5am and continued up the trail. The trail is easy to follow up to the flat spot at about 5800' and totally snow free. We found the climber's trail traversing up towards point 7760 (and 8248) and it was easy to follow up to the sandy gully. Buckner - next time, bitch! View of the traverse (on descent): We crossed several streams en route. Most were easy but two were a bit nasty. The first required us to do a brief excursion up hill to a safer spot. It involved some delicious 3rd class dirt with a veggie belay. The second was into and out of a deep gash in the hill side. The trail was thin and exposed here. Don't fall or you will get a lot of metal in your ankles for your trouble. We encountered a snow patch or three as we headed towards point 7760, and avoided those we could. Eventually we hit snow, and the toe of the Fremont glacier. The glacier itself is smooth as a baby's butt. We had hauled all the accoutrements for glacier travel this far, so we roped up for shits and giggles and headed up to the low point in the ridge. Here we discovered that the hogsback was purely vestigial, and moated badly with poor run out. So, we unroped. Logical, LOL. We carefully climbed it, gingerly stepping where the snow was thinnest and ascended a heinous gully with kitty litter over shit-rock. The hogsback (on descent): A cool motherfucking swale near the top of the Fremont: This slope mellowed but remained shitty to the notch. From here we crossed to the E side and the ledges were quite reasonable and as advertised, class 3. We hit one 4th class move, which made us scratch our heads and pucker our sphincters. It was not so bad in retrospect. We then ascended talus (little snow here!) to a notch and then climb a very nice class 3-4 bit to the summit. Unfortunately we only found a cairn and no register, so I have no idea what kind of traffic Logan has been seeing. Views were spectacular - a 360 degree mountain porn money shot. I had brought a light rack and we had our ropes from the glacier but never used them on the rock. We savored the summit then headed down without incident. Thanks to copious breaks up and down, we got to camp right at dusk. Here is one view we were treated to: The hike out was uneventful. The cool temps were a sharp but pleasant contrast to the sauna we waded through two days earlier.

5 years in a row I've set aside days to do this climb and every year weather does not cooperate. I'm jealous! Congrats!

The Sisters, maybe?

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