Adventurewagen

I own a 1971 camper. I love it. I got it specifically for all our climbing trips and travels. I've also owned a 68 and I have a 63 notchback. I've lived in mine for about 7 months and I've put well over 40k miles on it in the last couple years all across the country. It has a full futon bed, a sink, closet, two burner stove and a fridge for that cold beer! CC.com is definately not the place to find out about them. You can PM me or check out www.thesamba.com or http://sluggoproductions.com/iac/ Both those sites will have more than all the info you need and you'll find there are other forums out there where actual information is dispensed and not just spray. There is alot to consider and a big spread in differences between the years. Many will argue Aircooled is better for certain reasons, then again the ugly syncro's may be more reliable for longer stints, but working on them can be a bitch and parts aren't cheap nor are the syncros. There are different camping layouts and different options between the years and campers. So depending on how you want to use it, where you want to go, your ability to work with mechanical items or even the size of your bank account will determine which ones you want. I got mine for 1000 bucks as well which is another plus, but 4-6k in Seattle will get you a really nice one (1968 to 1979). I will say that I've passed alot of broken down SUV's along my travels and even though i tinker with mine all the time I bet I could keep it running longer than anyone on any road trip on this site (except for maybe the other ACVW guys out there, we'd tie ). Although I'd never beat anyone from point A to B, but I would be traveling in style.

Excellent work! My buddy and I were just down there in September and had that on the list but never made it on the route. We got a couple other good ones in though. I love this trip report on the route: http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/sentinel2.html 68yrs old at the time and still climbing! I especially love his comments at the end about whomever chopped HIS bolts! Allen Steck said "Pitch 11. First pitch in the great chimney ending at Narrows. Bolt hangers have been chopped (who on earth would do this and why?) so the pitch is quite run-out with poor pro. Almost seems 5.9 to me, but I've always been rather poor in chimneys. These bolts should be replaced for sure."

Very passionate response TradClimbGuy, you must really love the rock. I do to. Many good points on this topic. Positive ones are what we need. I do agree with Jon and JayB though that it seems as if the WSDOT is leaning toward the 6-Lane option and if they want to build the off ramp they will so we should see about moving it if we can as an option. Because if we dont at that point when they put in the off ramp the rock won't even be a blip on their radar, heck they'd probably level it to make temporary parking for the dozers while they did the off ramp whether it was in the way or not. We need to tell the WSDOT that we value the community, the environment and the UW (which I view as something for the community). Negative comments don't help. Opinions are good but if its too hard to simply help the climbing community out maybe you are on the wrong forum. MountainMatt hit the nail on the head with "Expecting to see the 10-lane option soon." If we don't tell them what we think of this stuff now, 10, 12, 20 lane projects will work their way into our city in the future. I get just a really bad image of this whole thing like tvashtarkatena said. Lynwood Yuck. Taking no action isn't a solution either. We just need to try to help nudge the WSDOT into making the better decisions and looking into even more alternatives.

It doesn't matter if the UW Rock is in the way or not. Look at the freaking picture!!! It is obvious that the UW Rock will be negatively impacted if the ramp is put in. As Ziggy mentioned how fun will it be to sit at the UW Rock under or next to an overpass listening to the traffic, breathing the fumes. Ahh yeah so much fun. I logged in and made my comment to WSDOT. Have you???

Same with Revelations. It shares anchors with the 10a to the left and has chain links worn 50% through each side from so much TR'ing. At the 2nd pitch of Zebra/Zion after the 10a corner the anchors are good but there is a second anchor with home made hangars/wires there as well that could be removed. That would be just as worthy to clean as placing new anchor bolts too.

Just ran across this thread. Is that picture from July or an old one? My buddies and I just unearthed Keiths Crack sometime earler in June 06. Wonderful line but it was so overgrown. We dropped tons of dirt, bushes and trees out of the top crack just over the lip and refound a couple ledges in there. Still needed more cleaning last time we left it but was lead climbable again and from the looks of the picture it has gotten some continued traffic. I don't think it had seen more than a couple TR's in the last few years if not less. Anyone been up there since June or is the pic really old? Its a great line but is gonna need some traffic to keep it from being reclaimed.

Ahhh, Not the UW Rock! I've done more laps there than I'd care to admit. Its my outside mecca away from those nasty plastic holds when I can't drive all the way out to real rock. I usually hate posting here cause of all the flame-retards but I had to throw in a comment on this one after seeing that picture. I'd throw up a portaledge and spend a few nights on the rock if it meant it being up for another day or so, otherwise they can move it to my back yard Then again they'll probably just "look" into what they can do and slap us with another 20 million dollar tax like the monorail. hahaha

Climb: Tieton-Lava Point Crag Date of Climb: 10/8/2005 Trip Report: Mega Tieton Sport Cragging Trip 2005!!! aka "In search of Sun" I don't share too often, mostly lurk, but I thought this was worth sharing. In our attempts to extend the season we have been on the lookout for sunny dry crags at this point in the season. Our long days are gone and with them the long one day pushes like Slesse or CBR from this season. Good stuff. Anyway, my wife and I headed out for our second trip to Tieton, couple weeks ago we hit the Royal columns and then Lava Point which is what this trip was all about. The drive from Seattle to the crag is about 2hrs 45mins. I-90 to Ellensburg, then south on 82 and West on 12. Just past Naches you make a left to stay on 12, 17.6 miles to the Soup Creek Road. The book for Tieton has incorrect mileage for just about every turn out. This trip we decided we were going to play the role of sport climbers so we brought only the draws, the puffy jackets and the dog. Only thing we forgot was starbucks coffee our crag haul bag and a boom box Sometimes its fun to just clip some bolts though. I suggest the Lava Point crag in Tieton if your looking for well protected easier to mid range sport climbs. Great place if you want to work on breaking into the 10's and 11's. There are only a handful of 9's and a couple each of 10 a,b,c and 11a's as well as a few good 11c/d range climbs. The climbs are all fairly short being 15 to 20 meters each. I found the grading on the easy side for the most part, but sometimes inconsistent. I think if you are a short person some of the climbs can seem much harder there are definately some reachy climbs out there. My wife thought the 10d was easier than the 10a and a 9 but she could reach more of the holds. Go figure? Nothing takes more than 12 draws total including the anchors so bring another 12 draws and rope if you want to get a couple ropes up. The crag is so quiet, nobody was there except for our group so having a bunch of ropes up is doable. It's in the sun most of the day and has shade and a nice place to hang out. Overall very enjoyable climbing area. A couple of the 10c's (Saint of Circumstance) were really great and most of the 11a's were great. Although most of the harder ones were a couple of one move wonders. You can camp for free anywhere along the road to the climb for free and nobody really bugs you. The Hunters are coming in now, so watch out of the narrow road for huge F350's driving 50mph with trailers and stuff. If you have to stay in a camp site the main site Windy Creek or something is the only one still open, 15 a night so its not cheap. There is a small restaraunt along the way, excellent breakfast at a good price! Highly recommended even though the guide book doesn't really say anything about it. We probably won't have time to head back till sometime next season, we need to find a new crag anyway since we really climbed this one out. It does have more than enough climbs for a couple of good days though. I really liked the type of rock alot better than 32 along with the style of climbing it creates, much better quality than vantage for the most part. It's not crimpy like smith, but has more slopers and even some finger locks on some of the sport climbs. Overall very enjoyable place and one of many other crags all up that valley. Definately a good place to escape the rain. Gear Notes: One Rope and 12 draws. Approach Notes: HWY 12,1 Mile past Haus Creek Campground, North onto Soup Creek Road. Stay left at the fork, park when the road ends and follow the cairns downhill for 10min.

I fly regularly, well more than regularly. Try 36 weeks last year I never check any luggage, ever. I also never leave home without my rock shoes and chalk bag. Half the time I also have my harness with belay device (reverso), a couple biners and some daisy's usually left on from the weekend. The only time I've ever had an issue was once in Portland when they wondered what my chalk was (around the same time as the anthrax scares) and a couple times when I forgot my nut tool hanging off my harness. I still made it through with the tool, but had to do some explaining. I usually don't bring the grigri, it ALWAYS shows up and causes another check so I just don't travel with it. Anytime I bring gear though, it gets checked. I've purchased and brought through cams a number of times no problems, sometimes you need to show the guys what it does, but otherwise usually no problems.

We got up there early that morning beating everyone except for a couple of locals who were on their way down from the upper wall. Apparently there was a HUGE rock slide somewhere on the wall that they heard for a couple of minutes. They went up to check it out but got tired and turned back. We headed up to get on town crier but didn't see any rock fall there, I think it must be at or around the diamond. Anyone run into it? After getting off the upper wall later that day we were pulling our ropes when a large boulder hit about 40ft left of us, some kind of day. We finished up by heading to the lower wall to see if any rockfall made it to the bottom, but nobody heard anything. In fact it was dry and everyone was free climbing. We figured it was gonna rain so we decided it was a good day to aid, shoulda brought the shoes. I did get a chance to aid up iron horse which had a fun hook move for my short ass, although I think I prefer free to aid its definately something to do in the rain!

Uhh, well let's just say that with morning dew on the bush, we were dripping wet by the time we broke out of the jungle. Definately. It was jungle from the river for a while, then pruned, then jungle, then bushy. Either way two pair of socks were nice to have cause we were super wet!

Nice Job. Peter, Jesse and I made the climb Saturday. Started at 3am and hit the drop off point by 9pm. Our legs were trashed from running the descent. The pocket glacier was still there on Saturday the 23rd and was scary as hell! A house size chunk broke while we were gearing up on the slab outside the fallzone of the glacier but it was in the fog that day so we went a running not knowing exactly if it was rock fall or glacier. Then we made the crazy mad dash across the wet slab after it cleared and after watching a nice car size piece slide down. Then just below the crossover pitch we all watched a chuck about 15ft deep the width of what was left (maybe 150-200ft wide)fall and slide. Did you guys here that one? We kept watching for you guys and were really hoping nobody was in its way when it went, but we didn't see anyone after us. Super climb though! I sure wish it had been gone saturday, but it did give us all a good reality check.

Im glad everyone is in disagreement on this one. I knew I would stir up some shit with my comments. Good, because I wanted to. Good job Colt45. I thought it was so funny when we got to pitch 12, one bolt. That was the pitch that made me think there was no way they wouldn't have a bolt or anchor on the other pitches higher up. Why bother placing one bolt on super easy good quality rock then nothing on dirty chossy rock. I have a source that just emailed me saying that their IS ego involved with the FA's. Maybe they should chime in. As for me my job is done. Ill post a topo as soon as I get it scanned and finished. Hopefully a few more people thinking they want to get on the "Infinite clip-up: multi-pitch sport-routing for every-man, in Washington State". will think about it and know that it isn't just that. Its a good route, especially tame for alpine but not trivial which is expected. So don't spray on me for pointing out something that nobody else was willing to do.

Hey NOLSe and SlapHappy, why don't you two just Fuck off. Leave a man to his own opinion, find another thread. Maybe I am the one hoping the people you describe (gym rats) don't just get on it assuming the lead party bolted everything safe for them. I just see people getting hurt, only a matter of time. There are alot of alpine routes out there, but few get mentioned in Rock&ICE as the longest "sport" route; its just a time bomb waiting for an in experienced team to get up there, not know what to do and get really hurt on what they "thought" was just a sport climb. The amount of work put into the route was tremendous but I wanted people to understand its not just a 23 pitch sport climb like at Smith. Too many friends and people I know have been talking about just getting on it because its "bolted" the entire way, too many of which don't know the meaning of multi-pitch let alone alpine. I don't need to be told Im a sport climbing spank or that I can't find a route. You don't know me, my experience, what I climb or where I climb as well as my climbing ethics. If I was that worried about the route I would have brought bolts up yesterday or not gone back, but we just figured probably like the Fa's did and said it's only 3rd class and there are supposed to be anchors somewhere up there. Im entitled to my opinion, maybe I should have waited another day to make a post when I wasn't as grouchy, but I stick to my story. (I give props to the guys who bolted it, the chossy blank section is fucked compared to the rest of the climb and should be fixed or posted for newbies jumping on it unknowingly and that the route was still fun.)

Yes, perplexing in deed. I remember saying, this can't be right, even the 5.1 pitch had one stinkin bolt on it. There were so many on the slab I remember walking past most of them to clip every couple bolts. It just doesn't make sense. I agree the jog to the right could be for alleviating rock fall on the belayer, good point. I will however still accuse them of ego boosting and spite for that pitch. I might not if they would have posted a topo or chimed in on the CC.com about how to get past that pitch, but they didn't. Makes me kinda wonder. As for the weather, we just got screwed. It was sunny up until pitch 19 with a few clouds moving around. Nothing too serious, but you know how quickly the weather can change. I would also agree on the HELMET. A definate must, and turning around if a car is already there. I would turn around at the base, don't even bother with the hike, just take the day off and get up earlier the next day.