Dr_Crash

I love the online search. It'd be nice if "sort by date" could be reversed so that the most recent climbs show up first though. Jordop, how do you get this CD? The AAJ's site on the journal says "go buy the journal somewhere in store" basically. So, how does this work? drC

I absolutely am interested in skiing the Haute Route. I've been wanting to ski it for a few years now and potential partners have always been bailing. It would be nice to meet and ski. All this rain pouring this morning is making me hoping for early snow... And speaking of the Haute Route, this made me dream yesterday: patrouille des glaciers 2007. Two years before the next one... drC

It's been a year since I've had a pretty nice wrist surgery, misplaced my rock shoes, started drinking cosmos... OMG. Yes I've been away. You guys are still having drinks on a regular basis? I'd love to come and reconnect. Oh and the climb was fun. And the trail heinous. Especially on the way back, of course (and that descent through steep and sh** ty scree instead of the normal way didn't help). drC

Hi, Has anyone recent beta on Observation Rock, approach and climb? We're going to climb it this weekend and would appreciate any up to date information. Thanks! drC

Hi there, Looks like my question is timely with that video of philfort skiing Baker a few days ago... I am looking for some beta on the conditions on Baker which I'd like to skin / climb to summit and ski next Saturday. I am also looking for partners for this potentially. What is promising on Baker right now? Thanks! drC

Thanks. Any rock climbing expected for that other route? I have an arm in a cast...

Hi, Some friends and I are considering climbing Mt Olympus during Labor Day weekend. We've heard concerns that the bergschrund might be uncrossable at this time of the year. Does anyone here have recent beta? Thanks! drC

I have my kids that weekend. If it's one week early, I'd be interested for sure. drC

Where is the Patagonia outlet? drC

They do. And they're going to be returned tomorrow.

Hi, I managed to order and end up with two pairs of Dynafit TLT Comfort bindings when needing only one (tried from two places and couldn't cancel a shipment in time when the other shipped). I can return the bindings, or I can let someone have them for the price I paid, i.e. ~20% off. So, for sale: brand new 2005-2006 Dynafit TLT Comfort binding, $290. Retails for $350 or more and is out of stock for the season. Local sales only (Redmond/Bellevue/Seattle). PM me if interested or send me an email at alpine duht crash at gmail dot comm. drC

French press. Or the second espresso maker you showed because it will contain the coffee (it's not really espresso) as it percolates.

Yes, everybody's different. But at least the baseline would be standard and would help. If I sleep 10 degrees colder than someone else, then I can take that info and apply it to any bag rated using the same standard. I mean, your car has MPG ratings for city and highway, but if you're lead footed, none of these will apply; still when shopping for a car it's a good measure of fuel efficiency. RE: Valandré, I know about them but never think of them; I am sure that if I had started mountaineering while in France rather than here they'd be high on my list. Hey, I could make a chauvinist buy with them :-P. drC

Well maybe you down bags guys could adopt a standard regardless of what the flannel bags guys do. Any decent standard and certification by an independent lab would work. Pick a CE standard and keep it as is or improve it, whatever, but market the bags as being tested. A smart consumer will notice and buy rated bags. I know people in the USA do not care much (I mean consumer in general). But where I come from we do, and I remember a <US name withheld> 0 degree bag bung tested at more than 15 and that is simply not acceptable. flow does FF establish its ratings? Have you done lab tests to get numbers like Monbell's or what the CE does, or are you being conservative enough as to not risk to disappoint a consumer? It'd be interesting to know your approach. YA And yes you guys have a stellar reputation. Not part of my equation at the moment but probably some day.

I have a WM vest that I Lou; for bags I'd like to stay with the 3 brands I mentioned for cost reasons.The Montbell are 725 fill which surprised me a bit when 850/900 can be found be hey... Do their fill weight sound good? (Again I don't know shit about that stuff.)

Hello, I am in the market for an ~20 degrees (F) down bag with a weight of about 2 lbs. This will be my all around bag for here, summer as well as winter / spring on snow (for example for the Forbidden tour I'm doing soon). After looking around some, the candidates I have are: - Marmot Helium. Rated 15 degrees and 1 lb 13 oz. I have no idea how accurate Marmot ratings are for temperature. Any feedback? - Marmot Helium EQ. Rated 15 degrees and 2 lb 3 oz. Boasts about its "extremely water resistant fabric." I have no idea whether that's true or not, but know it adds 6 oz. Is it worth it? - Montbell U.L. Alpine Down Hugger #1 Long. Comfortable temperature 15.8 F, usable down to -7.6 F, 2 lb 4oz. And a shitload of data such a fill weight etc. on the Web site. And I don't understand all of that Montbell also has a page on the Alpine Down Hugger construction. - Montbell U.L. Super Stretch Down Hugger #2 Long. Comfortable temperature 24.8 F, usable down to 5 F, 1 lb 15 oz. (The regular size is 2 oz less but 5'10" max.) Montbell has a page about the Super Stretch construction. - Ajungilak (Mammut)Taiga. Comfortable to 26.7 F, usable down to -2 F. 2 lbs 2 oz. - We could also throw in the GoLite Feather bag at 20 F and 1 lb 13 oz but I think the Helium would win. Out of curiosity, is the REI Kilo Plus really a true 0 F bag at only 2 lb 7 oz? How good are their ratings? That's pretty good if it's true, though probably too warm for my 4-season use. I like features like the foot baffle in the Montbell (can be closed down for a short person---not me, or open and used as a bootie for taller ones, and the bag can stuff in the baffle, no need for a stuff bag). I also like the Alpine's small face hole. And because I am not 5'10" I get extra room in these bags at the bottom if I want to stuff things there. I also like the Marmot Helium and its really light weight. Can I trust the temp. rating? This is when I miss true independent standards of testing like those used in Europe (the Montbell ratings look similar to these too but I do not know what standard is used for testing). Can anybody with real down bag experience help me here? The top two contenders are Alpine #1 (2 lb 4 oz) and the Helium (1 lb 13 oz; not the EQ, or should I look at the EQ because of the Cascades factor?) which may be also compared directly with the Stretch Hugger #2. It really boils down to whether Marmot's temperature rating is accurate and whether it is a "comfortable" temperature or not. Montbell's temperature chart states: "The Comfortable Temperature range* shows the temperatures in which you can restfully and pleasantly sleep 8 hours or more wearing only a thin layer. Use these ranges to select the best sleeping bag for your needs. *These ranges were measured in laboratory tests – depending on your situation and sleeping preferences, you may be more comfortable in a warmer or colder bag. Minimum Temperature The minimum temperature range* shows the temperatures in which you can sleep in relative comfort for 6 to 8 hours. *These ranges were measured in laboratory tests – depending on your situation and sleeping preferences, you may be more comfortable in a warmer or colder bag." If Montbell's 16 F bag can really go down to -7 F with some discomfort, and the Marmot Helium can't, then it's probably worth the extra advertised 7 oz, no? Anybody here can help me? drC - Down newbie (amongst other things), overanalyzer

Half dome works. One saved me when hit by a pretty good size rock. My only gripe with it: the velcro to adjust the fit. I prefer dials like on Petzl helmets; but that's pretty minor. I've got an Elios now. drC

Hmmmm... There's an idea <evil>. The whiplash and ribs was skiing (well, falling, you know). I ski hard, fall hard (though only once every few years). But the highway was scaaaaaaaaaaaaaary. drC - Soon to change his name to Unbreakable.

Someone quickly post an ANTI-JINX in this thread.

Whiplash and cracked ribs last Wednesday... Highway incident last night... I may be willing to cede this fate-tempting moniker to someone worthy who wants to live (so far...) the life on *that* edge. drC

I'm interested in doing something Saturday. Or I'll just go teach little pumpkins at Alpental. A workout would be preferred though. drC

Hot chocolate and Chartreuse after a good few hours of skiing. drC

It better not stop snowing. And these snow levels better go down. Being soaked by "snow" falling is just wrong. drC

Summit Central gave me a hassle tonight (see related post). Word is Patrol is doing the same at Alpental. Booh! (Especially since Alpental still hosts a Life-Link Rando Rally.) Come on Patrol, don't you have better things to do? Like find and mark these holes I find for you smack in the middle of a popular run, or heckle snowboarders for the way they disrespect every safety rule? drC -

Yes, there is always Hyak. I went to Central tonight and a patroller stopped me from going up. I was pissed, especially since he was only there because I told him about a big hole they hadn't seen in the middle of the trail. So I cover his ass and he turns me down (fortunately not on my first uphill). Shame on him. I'll try to check with the safety manager if there really is a "no uphill traffic" policy or not. The problem with this type of question is that they usually answer it the safest way, and it gives them ideas. And the Summit has been pretty adamant at reducing possibilities of lawsuits, see for example their new backpack policy (contrast to Crystal who doesn't care yet). drC