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mattyg

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Everything posted by mattyg

  1. It all depends on which way you go up. I'm sure you could find some low 5th class on it somewhere, but from what I recall it's 3rd to maybe 4th class. Just look for the line of least resistance and you shouldn't need any pro.
  2. Thanks a bunch BP - you know who you are! I got my stuff back in good shape. This community rocks!
  3. mattyg

    Too much gear!

    Absolutely not. But I have climbed with people that are SO concerned about weight, yet I look down and see an extra 30 lbs. of shit hanging over their belt. WTF? I'm sure our friend here isn't in that kind of shape, but I was just pointing out that if you are really concerned about what you are hauling up the mountain, don't forget to think about yourself. That is an excellent point. While I am not cultivating an enormous panis (that is the word, right?) I am slightly overweight. I have the treetrunk legs/linebacker frame - not exactly built for climbing really. But I enjoy it a lot and I've managed to bring the weight down by about 35# in the past several years. Still have about 10 more to go.
  4. mattyg

    Too much gear!

    Some good tips so far. . . Here - you can audit my pack list. Let's say this is baseline for a cattle route on a big mountain. The group gear (like stove, pickets, shovel. . .etc.) is obviously shared - I'm not carrying everything. I think I need a new smaller backpack. Any suggestions? Anyone ever ordered through McHale? Clothing Thermal bottoms Thermal top Quick dry shorts Thermal windproof top Trekking socks (2 pr) Liner socks (1 pr) Liner gloves Insulating jacket (big puffy thing) Waterproof jacket Waterproof pants Gaiters Waterproof mitts or gloves Warm hat Lightweight hat + bandanna Mountaineering boots Gear 3500 -5000 in3 pack w/ plastic bag liner Ice axe Crampons Harness Helmet Locking + non-locking biners Prussics/tiblocs and misc. slings Pickets Ice screws Rope Wands Headlamp (new batteries?) 3/4 L H20 Bottles Insulated bottle holder H20 Purifying tablets Stove, pots, pot grabber, spoon, fuel bottle/pump, lighter Knife Glacier glasses Small First-aid kit Toiletries (TP, vitamins, Wet Ones wipes) Duct tape Sleeping bag 1/2 Thermarest Tent (Tyvek ground pad) Plastic grocery bags Shovel Camera + film Earplugs Map + Misc Topos Compass Altimeter Watch Trekking Poles
  5. mattyg

    Too much gear!

    I've been climbing for awhile. I feel like I usually have a pretty good grip on what I need and when. I was up on Rainier the other weekend and there were many other people up there with what appreared to be much smaller packs than me. What gives? What are some things that people bring on climbs that they really don't need. I'm looking to thin down the rack so to speak and am looking for suggestions.
  6. Check this out (!) the 108 CM model has. . . New Talking Module... New interactive display module, the CM will ensure its users are maintaining proper speed, climb rate, heart rate and more--It's like having your own personal trainer with you every step of the way. Other module features include audio feedback like "good job" or "your almost there" or "your climbing too fast, try slowing down" or "keep going at this rate". Plus, you can select interesting places to climb: Washington Monument, Mount Olympus and many more to choose from. Or select a virtual opponent if you like from novice to Olympian.
  7. My partner dropped a black stuff sack containing: (2) tent poles (1) vestibule pole (1) grey Bibler Eldorado vestibule on Monday 7/18. It was probably lost on the ridgeline that connects the Glacier Basin trail to the talus fields below the Interglacier on the way up to Camp Curtis/Shurman. If ya picked it up, I'd love to have it back. Never even used the damn vestibule.
  8. Or your package if'n you're not wearing undies and have on really baggy shorts.
  9. Can I ask why you're selling?
  10. Which direction did you take around the bergshrund @ 13.5?
  11. Anyone have beta on the current conditions up there? Heading up with a few folks this weekend. Thanks for any info.
  12. Yeah, it's a nice route. Definitely better than the south ridge slog. Here's my TR from last year: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB5&Number=374192
  13. So how'd it go?
  14. Post whores need not apply
  15. One minor thing that I'd like is that: When you create a new thread or post in an existing thread, that thread should be automatically toggled as a "Favorite Topic!" and you should receive emails on it. (Instead of having to toggle it manualy). Small quibble I know, but it would increase the ease of use of this site immensely for me.
  16. What is sill?
  17. What are the best, lightest weight snow anchors available? Sure you can use your ice axe & ski poles, pickets etc - but what about after you leave in the morning? I know Bibler used to sell these fabric patches that looked promising but I don't see them on the website anymore. Any alternatives? Looking for super light weight here.
  18. My thought is to do it the weekend after I've climbed the mountain previously. We're doing the Emmons/Winthrop route in mid July. Then I'll come back the next Friday and run up there. Dunno if it'll work or not but I'm going to try it.
  19. mattyg

    Making wands

    I would recommend not using colored duct tape. I had some wands which had yellow duct tape on them and they were much less visible in the snow than ones with the day-glo pink neon surveyors tape. Take a bamboo stake Slit it lengthwise w/ a x-acto or utility knife about 4 inches Slide 1 foot piece of surveyors tape (available @ hardware store) into slit w/ equal amount hanging on each side Tie a knot in the tape Secure top with some kind of tape (I used yellow electrical) Repeat Or. . .use a gps
  20. Heh, I guess I could become part of the 2.73 mile high club.
  21. Here's another thread that covers this.
  22. Anyone pitched their tent on the summit of Rainier in decent conditions? I'm interested in watching the sunrise from up there and wondering if there are any special considerations you'd need to take that I hadn't thought of.
  23. Yah, I figured but someone I know wants to go there and I couldn't explain it to them well enough. ps - Impressive response time to a 3 year old thread. . .
  24. Is the Arcteryx outlet still in the same place it used to be?
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