John Frieh

Thanks for weighing in Jim! Independent of who's style was better what are you thoughts on whether or not it was alpine style Jim? Do you think Colin/Mark's ascent was not alpine style? Very curious to hear your thoughts

Jim Nelson, among others, cite Buhl's ascent of Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat as one of the first examples of alpine style climbing here Buhl utilized 300m of fixed rope on his ascent of Broad Peak.

first alpine style winter ascent Are you saying Colin and Marko didnt climb the North Ridge in alpine style? If so how do you define alpine style? that's easy, no fixed ropes. Gotta disagree with you on that one. If they had continued to fix ropes up the ridge and establish camps sure but fixing a pitch or two because you dont want to waste day light during a weather window is fair game in alpine style climbing. It happens all the time like here: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-alberta-wintry-house-anderson “After 6 a.m. we woke and slowly worked out of our wet cocoons. Steve prussiked up 30 feet of rope we had fixed the night before. He had done the bulk of the hard leading the previous day, so it was my turn to take the sharp end.” Props to anybody getting on the CNR in winter but no way is what Colin and Mark did expedition style climbing.

Prefunk @ the Horse Brass @ 5:45ish... try and grab a larger table if you are there first/early. :brew:

Roger and Dylan were able to pass the high point last winter but didnt finish the route! Bring your drytooling skills!

first alpine style winter ascent Are you saying Colin and Marko didnt climb the North Ridge in alpine style? If so how do you define alpine style?

Darin: name? hint?

bump?

good one dude

Nice list Dru... makes me wish I could search the TR engine by date.

I don't care if it's 5.2 or 5.22, grid bolting is dang stupid. And so are fake boobs. Having climbed @ geezer wall before it was chopped I can assure you it isnt grid bolted.

Anybody interested in beers before the show? Send me a PM

Great info Darin! Definitely need some freeze/melt cycles to generate ice... one of the reasons Idaho doesnt get much in the way of alpine ice until late spring when things warm up... but that said I have the opinion that the cascades are so large and have so much variety that one can generally find something to climb most winters regardless of how much or little warm spells we have. I cant help but wonder if el nino delivers what is going to get climbed this winter...

How was BC ice that winter dude?

What did you climb during the winter of 2004/2005? What do you remember getting climbed that winter (ice and/or alpine)? NOAA is talking about a strong el nino this winter... assuming that delivers the last one I can remember was 04/05 which was an awesome winter for alpine but teh suck for skiing. If I remember correctly both Alpental and Ski Bowl didnt open that year but the Sierras were epic (200% of snowpack). I also remember: - FWA of CNR Stuart - FWA NE ridge of Triumph - FA/FWA of NW face of Chiwawa - FA of Pineapple Express - FWA of NE face of Davis - an awesome boot pack into Stuart for most of the winter (!!!) What did you climb in 04/05? Any body remember how ice conditions were that year? Which areas were super fat or at least above average? I checked the WA state ice page but the archives dont go back that far... Looking @ the gravsports and montanaice archives it looked like both areas had good seasons... nothing super epic but it seemed like just about everything came in more or less. So: if el nino comes where should I go?

Many thanks to all who attended who contributed $$$... your donations generated $750 for Index and $750 for Hyalite canyon. Please do me a favor and thank Kenny and Gary @ the PRG for letting us do this yet again. Also if you are shopping @ Climb Max, OMC or US Outdoor take the time to thank them also for some great schwag and continued support. Many thanks also to Marcus, Graham, Nate for the great slide show, Roger Strong, McKenzie, Kim and Elisif, Black Diamond, Petzl, Metolius, Ice Holdz, Integral Designs, Outdoor Research, Sterling, Camp, Marmot, and everyone else that donated some great schwag.

Tonight! 5 pm if you plan to compete... 7ish or so we will tap the kegs! Bring some dollar bills if you want to buy raffle tickets and a chance to win some sweet schwag!

Tonight! 5 pm if you plan to compete... 7ish or so we will tap the kegs! Bring some dollar bills if you want to buy raffle tickets and a chance to win some sweet schwag!

Small sample of demo gear and prizes to be won! And no not out of my garage

Integral Designs 5x8 siltarp... Integral Designs South Col bivy bag...

New twin ropes...new single rope... new jetboil... All waiting for you to win them